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this might help as well:

Damper – by far the most common type of material. It uses mass loading to lower panel resonance and absorb structural vibrations, converting them into low level heat. Most commonly used throughout a vehicle to control structural related noises. They can also be used in conjunction with a composite to reduce road/engine/exhaust noise.

Absorber – as the name suggests, these products literally absorb airborne sound waves. The sound waves have to propagate through the absorber and the open/closed cell foam will slow it’s progress reducing the overall level in the process. Most commonly used on floors and firewalls to reduce road/engine/exhaust noise.

Barrier – as the name suggest, these products form a barrier or wall, which blocks airborne noise from passing through. The denser the barrier, the more effective it is, which makes lead an excellent choice for a barrier. Most commonly used on floors and firewalls to reduce road/engine/exhaust noise.

Composite – Best results are achieved by using more than one of sound deadening, so a composite is quite simply a combination of two of the above types into a single easy to install product."

quote from B-quiet website
 
Put it everywhere! If you're going to do it, do it right. I did my entire civic up to the firewall with Acousti Seal (very similar to dynamat). I did them sections at a time, so I got to see the difference each section made.
The whole trunk obviously made a huge different with subs back there. The bass sounded much fuller, as less of the sound waves escaped thru the thin sheet metal.
The door panels made a huge different as well, specially in road noise. The one area I did that didn't really make a difference was the top around the sun roof, and I probably wouldn't do that area again if I were to do this in my teg (also because that is the worst place to add weight).
It's hard to describe the difference before and after the whole car was sound-sealed, other than saying night and day, because there really was a huge difference. Imagine being able to have conversations at 70mph without raising your voice.
 
If its lighter then you are not loading as much mass and therefore it will probalby be less effective. I used raamat and did help with road noise a bit but mostly it helpes to keep the metal of the door from resonating. The result is the speaker sounds better. To really reduce road noise you need some type of barrier or absorber. Ive herd certain closed cell foams work well for this and are a lot lighter.
 
I have Dynamat and B-Quiet in my teg. I have the whole trunk done in dynamat and from the back seats to the firewall is all B-Quiet. The dynamat is much better stuff but is about 3-4 times more expensive. It is very heavy but does quiet the car down. Even with all this stuff the GSR still pulls good so I'm not taking any of it out any time soon.
 
if anyone familiar with physics to reduce resonance on the bridges (im sure everyone seen that video of the bridge destroying itself by resonance during the hurricane) they built them with variable dimentions like weight length width throughout the bridge so the idea is instead of the whole bridge having one resonance frequency it has parts with different res,freqs which basically means if one part starts resonating the others will absorb it without damage to the whole structure what im gettin at is u dont have to cover your car in dynomat... umm lemme get back to u on that lol i lost my thought
 
It wasn't a hurricane that destroyed Galloping Gertie, it was just a thunderstorm. The new bridge is about 5 miles from my house and I drive over it at least ten times a week.
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That's actually what I was thinking, also. I don't think there is an added benefit of covering everything in the dynamat style material, as opposed to only covering strategical areas; say the original material covered areas from the factory.

At a pacific northwest stereo store, Magnolia Hifi, they have a dynamat display where they have placed a small amount of dynamat on a bell, directly on the outside of the bell where the striker makes contact. This stops the bell from ringing when you push the button. They didn't have to cover the whole thing in order to stop it from ringing...
 
seismic on May/19/05 said:
At a pacific northwest stereo store, Magnolia Hifi, they have a dynamat display where they have placed a small amount of dynamat on a bell, directly on the outside of the bell where the striker makes contact. This stops the bell from ringing when you push the button. They didn't have to cover the whole thing in order to stop it from ringing...
well, thats becaseu a bell is extrememely small and made of really thin steel. You putting your finger on it would stop the resonating/vibration. Heres a real world test on how effective deadner can be....


link
 
i have a roll of dynamat in the garage. I'm waiting till the summer rolls around and i'm putting that stuff in. IT's gonna be fun!

i plan on ripping out the carpet and basically everything i can rip out and laying that stuff on. Trunk is most important cuz that place makes everything loud.

so floors, trunk door panel and wheel well.

T
 
i've had my dynamat extreme in the car for sometime now. i did the hood, all 4 doors, and the trunk.

my results: improved road noise, car is heavier and feels sturdier and doesnt feel so cheap, comfort level is up,

with my integ's lack of torque- my car is a bit slower due to the added weight but its was all worth it.
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You don't use dynamat for the hood, rather a different type of material that dynamat may also make.

They created a material to put on the underside of the hood to mainly control temperatures so that the heat from the engine does not destroy the paint on the outside of the hood.
 
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