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What is normal wet/dry compression?

7.2K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  Danny50  
#1 ·
Ok, recently did a compression test. Did dry one day, and then did and dry and wet the second day. If you don't know what I mean then you can't answer my question, so I won't explain. Anyway, one cyl stayed about the same, and the others went up 5-10psi when test was done "wet". Is this normal? Enough to garner concern? I noticed I had higher compression results the second day, probably because my car was a little warmer.
 
#2 ·
Originally from TI Article - "Compression Testing 101" said:
What are the factory specs for a compression test?
on the B18B1, the cylinder pressure must not exceed 199psi or be any lower than 135psi.
on the B18C1/B18C5, the cylinder pressure must not exceed 270psi or be any lower than 135psi.
on all three engines, there must not be any variation greater than 28psi between any cylinders.

If it goes up when wet, that means your rings are sealing better eliminating blowby when the oil is added meaning your rings are on their way out. It really shouldnt changve much when you add oil. A bit is normal but more than that signals that your rings are starting to become toast
 
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#4 ·
Imagine a car with bad rings and very little seal...as the cylinder oscillates, the air to be compressed escapes past the sides and rings of the piston. This is known as blowby, and is one reason compression in said cylinder would be low.

Now lets look at a wet compression test. Remember when you were a young kid playing with bubbles? You know how the soapy water filled in the gap on the bubble wand so you could blow a bubble? The oil that you add to the cylinder in a wet compression test acts in the same way. You know how if you just blew a little bit that the bubble would flex but not release?That is what the oil does which keeps the air etc. inside the cylinder creating less blowby and raising compression.

Now if we did this to a cylinder with good rings, there would be very little blowby for the oil to improve upon which is why the compression test would not increase much.

M
 
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#6 ·
sgtmillhouse648 on Apr/04/09 said:
Imagine a car with bad rings and very little seal...as the cylinder oscillates, the air to be compressed escapes past the sides and rings of the piston. This is known as blowby, and is one reason compression in said cylinder would be low.

Now lets look at a wet compression test. Remember when you were a young kid playing with bubbles? You know how the soapy water filled in the gap on the bubble wand so you could blow a bubble? The oil that you add to the cylinder in a wet compression test acts in the same way. You know how if you just blew a little bit that the bubble would flex but not release?That is what the oil does which keeps the air etc. inside the cylinder creating less blowby and raising compression.

Now if we did this to a cylinder with good rings, there would be very little blowby for the oil to improve upon which is why the compression test would not increase much.

M
Damn....that brought back memories. Back then they also had this sticky stuff and you put a little bit on a tiny tiny straw and you blow in it to create a bubble/balloon type thingie. HEHEHE.
 
#8 ·
Nothing here has been any help. The question is 5-10psi increase alot or somewhat normal. Malhoun sorry but your first post was no help as that is already known to me, and probably most mechanically inclined people, thanks though.
 
#9 ·
First of all, what ARE your compression numbers? That's way more important than the change from dry to wet. Any kind of increase with a wet compression test is caused by wear on the rings. How much is cause for concern? I wouldn't be worried about 5-10 psi if your compression numbers are good otherwise.
 
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#12 ·
you said day 2 that the car was warmer; compression tests should only be done on a fully warmed up engine, and that is probably the biggest factor for the higher numbers. 5psi is about avg rise for a wet test, 10 sounds a bit high. Do a leakdown test on a warmed up engine and you'll know if you have an issue. compression tests are not a diagnostic tool.
 
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#14 ·
tivteg96 on Apr/06/09 said:
Ya but if you do the comp test with the car fully warmed your risk getting the tool stuck in there. I think valve seals are my issue.
That's why you use anti-seize on the threads. Without the car being fully warmed up, the compression results are not very useful or accurate.
 
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