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Common G3 coolant problems

135K views 352 replies 196 participants last post by  androsk  
#1 ·
EDIT: This post if for common problems and resolving them. Please do not ask where to buy parts. Go to the dealer or get get the radiator from the link provided in the article.



I have been noticing a lot of coolant problems and its usually all the same problems. I will go into symptoms and problems. This will be a common topic.

Actually the first thing to do is check your coolant level and condition. It should be clean and green.


1)My car takes a long time to warm up, and my temp guage does not move far from C on the guage. If I idle it will move up but when I drive it goes back to C

The problem is you will need to replace your thermostat. It has failed in the open position as it is designed to. If it were to fail in the closed position the car would overheat as no coolant is allowed to flow to the engine.

Thermostat replacement article

2)My car is leaking coolant on top of the radiator.
My car has a mysterious coolant loss.

The first thing to do is visually inspect all of your hoses for cracking and swelling along with leaks. A pressure test is also a good way to pinpoint a leak. YOu can have this done at a shop or purchase one at your autoparts store.

A very common leak for the G3 Integra is the top radiator seal that goes at about 85-120k miles. There is no fix it will need to be replaced. (note from Br1t1shguy: bottom seal goes just as much as well, check er out)

G3 radiator replacement

For the G2 guys =)

Radiator barn, where to get your new one.

3)My car runs warmer than normal but there are no leaks, The guage reads half way or more.

Br1t1shguy: While you should change your pump at the serivce interval, it fails due to seal leakage, not flow reduction. Temperature creeping during normal driving is most often due to some issue with the fans or a leaking headgasket

If your car has not had the timing belt waterpump service performed it is most likely the starting signs of a failed waterpump. The coolant is not circulating like it should and the car is running hotter.

You should also check to see that your fan is working properly. There are 2. 1 is for the AC and both will turn on when the AC is on.


4)My front window steams up and when I turn the heat or just normal driving. I smell a sweet steamy smell. There is coolant on the passanger floor.

This would be your heater core, it is leaking and will need to be replaced. We do not yet have an article on this as it is not very common.

Coolant replacing and bleeding article.
Do this every 30k or 2 years to minimize coolant problems.

You can also perform a search on here for

"coolant loss"
"coolant leak"
"radiator leak"
"thermostat"
"headgasket"
"white smoke"

Feel free to add a link that you think may help members out. Or if you experienced another coolant problem.
 
#2 ·
I want to include in this that if you have heavy white smoke and a loss of power it is most likely your headgasket. Pull your dipstick out and if it is milky then coolant is mixing with the oil.

Normal cold start ups with thin white smoke that goes away after the car is warm is normal and nothing to worry about.

Also a waterpump may start to leak before it fails so be sure to check on the timimg belt side (right/driverside) of the car when standing in front of the car for leaking coolant.
 
#4 ·
It may also be wise to suggest the use of non-silicate coolant. Honda like many other import vehicles with aluminum parts should consider using this type of coolant as suggested by honda. Silicates over time act as a sand blaster to your water pumps and radiator, eating away at it. I honestly cannot say I have seen a failure due to this in person, but I have read much on the subject and feel it is a worthwhile investment to prolong the life of the cooling systems by getting the closest thing to meet honda specs.
Honda coolant is expensive and supposedly lasts 60,000 miles and is good stuff. Zerex G-05 is a new product and is a good alternative as it is the closest to conform to Honda specs and is much sought after by owners of European cars. Another option is the Extended Life coolant such as Zerex 5/150, but that would require you to fully flush the coolant system first since it is not compatible with the green stuff, but is phosphate, borate, and silicate free. Do not mistaken this for Dex-cool, even though it is similar in color. It is Dex-Cool compatible, but is not Dex-Cool by any means. Dex-cool turned out the be some bad stuff and would precipitate in cooling systems and clog heater cores.
 
#7 ·
just got my radiator today from radiatorbarn. . . wow @ the shipping. Cant wait to install it today and a big FU to the peeps at radley acura for selling me a lemon from an incompetant salesman.
 
#12 ·
Just a few a days ago I notice the temperature slowly going up when I stopped at the stop light and when I drive the temp would go down to normal again. When I pulled over, shut of the engine, and popped open the hood there was coolant all over the front part and tranny side of the engine. It lost of a lot of coolant but now I also notice that there are a lot bubbles blowing the resvoir. Do you know what the problem maybe?
 
#13 ·
your engine is obviously too hot. You prolly got a leak somewhere. When u get home, clean up all the splattered coolant and turn your car engine on so you can easily see where its leakin from.

gluck!
 
#20 ·
hey, in the thermostat article it says to drain the fluid. what kind of fluid is it and where would i refill the fluid at? my temp gauge dont work right now so im guessing i need a new thermostat. but i dont want to attempt it until i know what kind of fluid to put back in. the article makes it looks semi easy though.
 
#24 ·
My temp gauge has always read about half way from 58k when i bought it, to 83k miles now. I did the timing belt about 10k miles ago and the water pump was in perfect condition. Why again is it BAD for the gauge to read half way? that should be a normal reading(and is on most vehicles), its when it starts to go to 3/4 or "redline" that you should be worried.
 
#25 ·
Good article. Here's another data point for you all:
I had an older civic, and the plastic radiator top cracked when I leaned on the wrong spot. At the time, I got very expensive quotes for replacements, so I decided to fix it.

I cleaned it thoroughly inside and out, and drilled small (1/16") holes at each end of the crack. I roughed up the plastic, and gooped it up well with JBWeld (a good epoxy). I added a piece of plastic, and more epoxy over that. Pretty ugly, but it held for 2 hot CA summers before I sold the car.

P.S. That 'Bars leaks' stuff isn't something you should do on a car you intend to keep. It clogs up small leaks, but also the small passages you want water to go through, like your radiator.