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valve springs and retainers install

7.3K views 40 replies 15 participants last post by  Louse76  
#1 ·
I've done a lot of research on cam shafts, valve springs, and retainers.
Decided all Crower and recently started purchasing everything i need.
Here's my dilema.
I want to do the instal myself, but just realized (after reading crower's cautions)that i have no practical experience with engines.
I don't want to destroy my engine and want to know (from someone who's actully installed their own cams, springs, and retainers)if it's too much for a novice mechanic?
To be more specific; retainer to valve guide clearance, piston to valve clearance, valve to valve clearance, and rocker to retainer clearance.
My helms manual isn't in yet, but wonder if it's guidance will be enough?
Thanks in advance

Cheers!
 
#32 ·
Louse,

I strongly recommend that since this is your first time at doing this, you'll want to go and watch a properly done spring install first, take notes, and ask questions after the job is done by a pro.

You don't want to be coming back on here in a month with a post like this guy did when I was a SHO Integra Forum moderator 2 years ago:

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this guy came on several honda chatboards and posted this pic saying that Crowers break.

I called Brian Crower and hooked him up with this guy. Brian offered to pay for inspecting the head and the cams free of charge and would replace all damaged parts & repair costs, if the problem was linked to a Crower manufacturing design flaw. It turns out this fellow basically tried to do the install for the first time himself and when he screwed up, he tried to get his money back by blaming/slamming Crower publicly. No cam had ever broken before. X-ray and magnaflux analysis showed that it was improper installation that was the root cause.

The guy finally owned up to his "lack of experience" for f**king up his own engine.

I really do recommend that you leave internals work to the pros. This is not an i/h/c/e install. They are more forgiving if you are off slightly. Internals aren't as charitable and if you are off even slightly, it has huge consequences. Trust me. I've been there. If you think you are trying to "save money by a DIY project" then think it over again. Piston to valve contact, valve seat pounding and valveface mushrooming, or broken cams are going to cost you more than the labor costs you save.

Just a suggestion to keep in mind.
 
#33 ·
I completely understand and agree. I am not installing my own. I simply am trying to take the springs off of my spare head because I decided to have them installed on my stock head instead of doing a head swap.

Approx how long would it take to remove them from a head if someone was a pro? I might as well have them do it when I get my cams installed if its not too expensive.
 
#34 ·
Art,

It might be best for you to consult a shop for some of your specific questions based on time and the best tool needed to do the job. Ask if you can buy lunch in exchange for getting to hang around and playing twenty questions. Many mechanics will have different opinions and techniques for doing this type of operation, so this will give you something to note on.
 
#36 ·
Uh oh, guilt trip...

I think Tuan and Garrett are trying to help you out here...you are a novice and if you try to do this yourself it will end up costing you a lot of money. I don't know who could give out better advice since they've both been there and done that. Listen to them and heed the advice.

Usually when you don't know what kind of tool to use to compress the springs, it isn't a good idea to even touch that internal stuff.

They're trying to help you out, swallow your pride and listen to them.
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#37 ·
I think one thing you guys are missing is that I'm not messing with the head that's installed on my car.

I'm taking springs off of a spare head that I don't give a crap about.

I'm also not installing them myself.

I have learned plenty from this thread. Now all I want to know is exactly what attachment I need to use the Craftsman Spring Compressor.
 
#38 ·
Sears has two valve spring compressors listed on their websites. one has a picture that's hard to judge by and the other doesn't have a picture. Buy one of them and if it doesn't work out for you, return it.

It's a pretty basic clamp design that holds the back valve and puts tension on the retainer, so that you can remove the nut. Your only worry is that the unit you have being the correct size for your application. Most tools usually come in "import" sizes, so look for some packaging distinction.Trial and error.

Many of my experiences didn't even come from an import, FWD, DOHC setup. 99% of automotive knowledge and diagnostics is transferable to other makes and models. Just because a shop doesn't primarily work on tuner cars doesn't mean it wouldn't be good place to source knowledge. I learned a lot by hanging around Goodyear dealership and a dyno shop.

I don't know jack about the Craftsman's spec for that tool, as the reason I stated you might want to talk to a shop that messes with these issues and could tell you what to do in their sleep. A lot of those guys get off telling you what they know or think they know. Take it for what it is and move on. Cross-reference data and refine your questions. Sometimes the answer isn't black & white and served on a silver platter.
 
#39 ·
I think Louse misread Garrett's "playing 20 questions" statement. Garrett was referring to asking questions to the mechanic about the valve removal as he is watching him and learning not about how many questions he asked on this thread.

It's a spare head but you don't want to unintentionally screw up the head, unless you plan to junk it after removing the springs.