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overheating in 4th and 5th--SOLVED

23K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  powdrhound  
#1 ·
Is it possible its anything other than my head being warped? gasket is less than 2 months old, water pump and tbelt are as well, installed at a shop, head just had a valve and a guide replaced and all valves inspected, upper and lower rad hoses are hot, verified that the fans both work, worse when the car is under load, i had to drive it home when i noticed this starting so its had a few miles since the issues appeared and my temp gauge was broken for a bit so im sure this has been going on longer than id like to think
 
#3 ·
2 weeks ago
 
#4 ·
well i took out the teg again, curious as to what would happen (im just now getting to see WHEN im overheating) and it mostly seems to happen in 4th and 5th gear, rpms dont matter, i ran second out to 6500 and had no problems, but cruising in 4th makes it constantly go up, im going to take it to acura tom and see what they say
 
#6 ·
i dont have a timing light, but its literally one month from having a valve and guide replaced (and then having the new belt, tensioner, and water pump put in as well) ive adjusted timing via the dizzy, no change, it idles fine, has good power, just overheats in higher gear, doesnt overheat when sitting still (at least it hasnt since i put in the gauge, but it hasnt been in very long, and the car has seen less that 30 miles since i put the new cluster in, when started and left to idle it is absolutely fine and will just sit and run wout overheating or anything), and turning on the heat makes it better sometimes, and makes it worse other times, nothing is really consistent with this issue, im really confused and im going to have a stealership diagnose it tom (they charge 75 for a diagnosis)
 
#7 ·
you might have a bad air lock in your coolant system.. if you dont have a bleeder screw and dont care if you get coolant everywhere, then take your rad cap off and without letting your cooland go down let the car run and rev it up a bit to get the water pump moving good and let the fan cycle a couple times.
 
#9 ·
lindseyhunt1090 on Jun/11/10 said:
you might have a bad air lock in your coolant system.. if you dont have a bleeder screw and dont care if you get coolant everywhere, then take your rad cap off and without letting your cooland go down let the car run and rev it up a bit to get the water pump moving good and let the fan cycle a couple times.


tried to bleed the possible air in my system twice now, let it sit for 10 min yesterday, and sat and revved it to 3k-4k for then next 5 or 10, no bubbles at all

Quote: 2000_IntegraGS on Jun/11/10 how would it really only heat up in 5th and 6th gear?The only thing I can think of is an elextrical issue seeing as you said that your temp gauge was broken....or the fact that you have driven it for a while to warm up the car at that point
i drove the car AFTER i let it get warm, in first and second its gets a lil warm (by a little i mean i didnt notice it, i went out on the streets to get into 3rd 4th and 5th and thats when i realized it was overheating still), in 3rd a lil more, and cruising in 4th and 5th it just rises, if i take it out of gear it cools down, if i drive it in like 2nd or 3rd its pretty much fine and will drop from the temp it was at in 4th or 5th, im going to re-verify this today, but this is what i noticed in the 4miles i drove it yesterday investigating this problem, im gunna try to get video if at all possible, and im hoping the dealer will be able to give me a solution
 
#11 ·
all coolant is green everywhere
 
#12 ·
ok so after getting a valve lash adjustment and the mtf changed and having the dealer look at the car i have learned i have aftermarket injectors and aftermarket fans on my rad

im still having an odd issue, the car really only heats up excessively in 4th and 5th gear even when cruising and will actually go down from hot wen i go into 3rd so im really confused as to why 4th and 5th makes a difference, i cant get it to heat up at 6700rpms in 3rd like it does at 3k iin 5th...
 
#13 ·
if i have the if i have the cold/hot slid over to hot (fan not on, just moved the slider) the car wont heat up as much as with it slid over to cold, it pretty much holds at just above the 1/2 mark-3/4 mark when in 4th and 5th, it barely breaks the 1/2 mark running out 3rd

turning on the fans barely has any affect on the temp

letting it out of gear barely affects the temp until im going slow enough to get into 3rd

now im wondering if its possible that something has gotten stuck inside one of the coolant or oil pathways in the block during all of this headwork i had to have done (becuase of the timing belt snapping and a valve getting bent)

what would be the symptoms of a partial blockage?

my current plan is to replace the head and get an OEM headgasket, i have a second head im going to have checked out by a shop after i get new springs and retainers and OEM valves
 
#15 ·
95integraLS003 on Jun/14/10 said:
You have aftermarket fans..

Are they pushing or pulling air and which side of the radiator are the fans on?
Check this, and switch polarity accordingly.


Also passages getting blocked is probably highly un-likely, but can certainly happen. Unfortuneately the only way to find out is to tear the damn thing apart, which is not at the top of your to do list I would imagine.
 
#16 ·
im standing at the front of the car looking at the exhaust side of the engine: left (psassenger fan) if pulling air INTO the engine bay; right, Drivers side, is pulling air OUT of the engine bay
 
#18 ·
newb question, what do i do to do that?
 
#19 ·
Dustin96LS on Jun/14/10 said:
Quote: 95integraLS003 on Jun/14/10You have aftermarket fans..
Are they pushing or pulling air and which side of the radiator are the fans on?



Check this, and switch polarity accordingly.


Also passages getting blocked is probably highly un-likely, but can certainly happen. Unfortuneately the only way to find out is to tear the damn thing apart, which is not at the top of your to do list I would imagine.
Sorry, I should explain it more ha. Simply switch the polarity of the wires at the connector for the fan. You might have to snip the connector and hard wire it, however I am not sure if you will. Upon attempting this you will figure out if you can keep them or not.
 
#20 ·
i understand what its called, i was asking how to do it

is there an actual switch? is so where, do i move the fan? i mean i said it was a n00b question and u spat the same answer out...
 
#22 ·
Dustin96LS on Jun/14/10 said:
Quote: Dustin96LS on Jun/14/10Quote: 95integraLS003 on Jun/14/10You have aftermarket fans.. Are they pushing or pulling air and which side of the radiator are the fans on?



Check this, and switch polarity accordingly.


Also passages getting blocked is probably highly un-likely, but can certainly happen. Unfortuneately the only way to find out is to tear the damn thing apart, which is not at the top of your to do list I would imagine.


Sorry, I should explain it more ha. Simply switch the polarity of the wires at the connector for the fan. You might have to snip the connector and hard wire it, however I am not sure if you will. Upon attempting this you will figure out if you can keep them or not.




Here I explained it more, sorry man ha
 
#23 ·
ok that i can do, will brb
 
#24 ·
that helped some, especially if i turn the air on....im thinking my headgasket is junk we will see, im going to get better fans asap, i need brakes first though
 
#25 ·
haha I have this exact problem but it doesnt sound as extreme as your at all... My car after like an hour of running on the highway (5th) it will start to slowly overheat. all I got to do to fix it is downshift into 4th to bring the rpms up. If it is really unhappy, 3rd, then that fixes it for sure. So sounds like hte same for you, if you are overheating, try doing a good high rpm blast in 2nd or 3rd and see if it cools it down.

Anyways, I have figured out whats wrong with mine, I am pretty sure my thermos go sticky... I would take it out and stick a new one in and it would fix it for like 3 weeks, then it would start again, so all I did was take out teh new one, play with it (push it open and what not) then put it back in and it would be fine again.

What was happening was that the thermo would not want to open resulting in not enough coolant flow, now the engine gets hot especiall at low rpms on load wharee the pump isnt pumping all that much and the engine is not very effeciant at this rpm so in turn you are dumping more fuel trying to hold speed in turn more heat. When I downshift, the extra water pump speed creates enough vacuum on the thermo to suck it open and let cool coolant throught hte engine.

that was my problem, it still does happen every once and a while, but it is not extreme like yours. Although the first time it did it it was.... and my new thermo fixed it. It was so bad that at a stop I had to sit there at like 4600rpms lol.
 
#26 ·
Awesome..

NOW.

A: What size are those fans? If they are less then 10" you need to go 12" or bigger.

B: Bleed the cooling system, might have to do it several times to get all the air out.

C: If it still keeps occuring, Replace the thermo once more.

D: If its still happening, They clean your block and check for HG leackage.