well the engine of course, but you'll need to add a few wires to the harness, get an ecu, and thats about it. The engine will come with a knock sensor.

 

if he gets the stock gsr wiring harness he will not need any extra wires...allthough it is a pain...it is nice to have all stock wiring...vs a ls wiring harness w/ vtec spliced in.

all the mounts and other stuff are the same...b18b = same as b18c except for the internals and vtec operations

 

What questions should I ask and look for in the motor? Mileage, leaks, compression test, anything else?

 

ummm thats about it I believe

 

leakdown test in conjuction w. the compresion test

 

look for anything missing in the engine...i have no experience on buying a honda engine but a friend got riped on an SR...so just look out for that.

Steven

 

Alright. Everyone back up, the master is coming through.

Just kidding.

But I have personally done this swap.

You will need an ECU, a gauge cluster (of which I have two for sale), the throttle cable and brackets, some exhaust work (if you are using the GS-R header), the engine (of course) and that's about it.

The wiring harness would be nice, but I doubt you are in the mood to rip apart your dash and the engine bay switching harnesses. And a local shop in your area should be able to competently wire in the 4 wires necessary for the operation of the VTEC. So I would suggest NOT getting a wiring harness.

The motor mounts are all exactly the same so no problems there.

My tips are as follows.

1. Get one of those $10 fluids mats you find at Schucks or some parts store that claim to soak up fluids. When you pull that engine, trust me, fluids seep out of the thing even after you emptied the whole engine.

2. Drop the engine out of the bottom of the car. I found this easier because you didn't have to worry about snagging any brake lines or something fragile. To do this get a nice floor jack and lots of 2x4's. Use the frame rails underneath the car. This is probably a little more dangerous, but it worked well for us. Then just drag the engine along the ground out from under the car (it's a honda engine... it's light).

3. Take out the radiator and the fans, facilitates removal. It's a Honda. Flip a dime at the engine bay and you are already almost guaranteed that it will land on something. More room = easier.

4. Take your time!!! Biggy. I got the engine in in 2 and a half weeks and it was working the first time we started it up. A friend stuck an engine in his car in 1 day and took 1 week to get the thing working. Lets just say with the things they screwed up they are VERY lucky they didn't warp the block.

PM me with your questions and concerns. I've been there done that man.

 

Do I also need new motor mounts?

No, but you might as well spend the extra 30 - 50 bucks on the Prothane and Energy suspension motor mount interts. They will help you get more torque to the ground by reducing engine flex.

 

yea i agree with ThePro about dropping the engine from underneath..it's a lot easier...and about the bushings..i don't reccomend it unless you plan to build up the motor..because your car will vibrate like a biatch i have then in my teg right now..also while the motor is out change out your clutch kit..a lot easier and save you time and headache in the future..and change the manifold...basically do sh*t to the motor that makes it hard when its in your car..because now you have the flexability to do it with ease..it took me 20 min. to put my skunk2 mani on w/the motor out

 

Oh! That's another thing I forgot. Take off the intake manifold. I know, I know... you'll have to buy a new gasket. But as long as you have to buy a new one might as well get the snazzy Hondata Intake Gasket/Heatshield which helps lower your intake temperature. When you take off your intake, you will know why.

I wish I took a picture of mine. You will need a full can of brake cleaner to get the thick (and I do mean thick) layers of gunk off the inside of the manifold. It is definetely worth the 30 minutes.

And I agree with jdmteg2nv about the motor mount inserts. It makes your car vibrate a lot. After 6 months it calms down, but then the squeaking starts. If you decide to put them in, and this is very important, lube the living heck out of them. It keeps them from squeaking later.

 

Anyone have an idea on how much I'm looking at? I'm looking at also getting ITR lsd or the Qaf.. one. And what tranny is better for that motor? I was gonna have this shop work on it but if it's not that difficult then I'll give it a try. Would getting new oem bushings be beneficial?

 

www.hybridgarage.com

 

Anyone have an idea on how much I'm looking at? I'm looking at also getting ITR lsd or the Qaf.. one. And what tranny is better for that motor? I was gonna have this shop work on it but if it's not that difficult then I'll give it a try. Would getting new oem bushings be beneficial?

How much money? Well that all depends on how gung ho you are. When I did mine, I did all sorts of cool stuff to the car as well, as long as it's out. So it cost me (with the cost of the engine) about 3500 (I only paid $1k for the engine/tranny). But if you just want a running car with nothing fancy at the same time, it shouldn't cost you more than another 350 on top of the cost of the engine/tranny. I also assume you will do all the stuff like replace the timing belt and accessory belts and all the other maintenance stuff while the engine is out.

The LSD. I looked into this. A lot, I have another really old thread on what I decided. In a nutshell, to buy an LSD and have it installed is about the same price as buying a US ITR transmission. You can buy the JDM ITR ones for a little more. So in the long run, the higher gearing ratio's really benefitted me along with the addition of the LSD. So I would definetely suggest just getting the ITR tranny. But check out my thread. I thought it had some useful information.

New OEM bushings aren't really necessary unless the ones you get look like crud. And later if wheel hop is a problem, get the Z10 traction bar. You set it tight for racing and loose for daily driving. I have the urethane bushings in my motor mounts and with the LSD I still have a very big problem with wheel hop. When my wheels start slipping the whole front of the car actually hops. If you have change in your ashtray it sounds like your jiggling your pockets. It's bad.

A shop could do it. Probably for about $700-$1000. You could do it because I didn't think it was that hard. But it all depends. Every engine swap has a problem, doesn't matter who does it. It will have a problem. My problem was the lower ball joint on the drivers side would NOT come out. We used a puller and put about 2 tons of force on it and it actually broke the puller. So we just disconnected the lower control arm and moved the brake assembly out of the way. So do it yourself if you have another ride for at least a week and you feel you have a nice range of tools.

But giving some shop a grand... you could buy a lot of go-fast parts for a grand.

 

what power stearing bracket did you use?

 

I used the GS-R bracket. There is a difference between the LS and the GS-R to where the LS bracket will not work on the GS-R engine.

 

Has anyone got a link to a walk through or guide when a jdm b18c was done?

 

i've been trying to find out a walk through/help on installing/wiring my 0bd2 gsr into my 0bd2 ls harness but i haven't found anything yet. ive seen online a few places that show the jdm b18c swap.

 

anyone ever find a link/walkthrough on doing the gsr swap into an ls........

 

Pick up a Helms Manual. Theres your walk through (with the exception of running the wires for vtec)

 

I haven't logged into this website in awhile! But in any case, I've never seen a walkthrough, but it's pretty straightforward as the engines are sort of identical in that most, if not all, of the connections (electrical, fluids, sensors) to the car are identical.

The issue is, as Shore96teg said above, running the VTEC wires, but a few companies have made it easier on you. (I wish these were available when I did my swap...)

http://rywire.com/store/9400-integra-vtec-subharness-p-115.html?osCsid=525aaee94cbfd67e1008881959d314be

http://www.hasport.com/products/wiring.htm - Scroll down until you see your year of Integra

Both of them are nearly plug and play. Here is the description for the rywire one.

This will add VTEC, VTEC Oil pressure, IAB and Knock sensor to your LS Chassis Integra.
The subharness has a quick-disconnect in the middle at the shock tower.
ECU pins are connected to the subharness and you'll have a easy to read pin-out instruction to install them by.

 

Hey i know this is an old thread but i have a quick question refering to the guage cluster. Is it necessary to get the gsr guage cluster? Ive seen other swaps were they just used the original cluster. And i only plan on reving to 8.5k so i figure whats the point my ls guage displays that perfectly.
Quote: But I have personally done this swap.

You will need an ECU, a gauge cluster (of which I have two for sale), the throttle cable and brackets,

 

The LS gauge cluster should work okay although I think your tachometer is going to be a bit off. What I mean by that is the ECU doesn't know which gauge cluster you have in the car. So instead of telling the gauge cluster "display 4,000 RPMs" it says "display 30% of maximum". on the GS-R cluster that might be 4k RPMs but on the LS cluster it might be 3,200. <-- that is wrong. See my edit below.

But I'll do some research and find out for you.

****EDIT****

So I found this thread "Will gsr cluster fits in an ls?" which obviously is the exact opposite of your situation. But as it works one way, I don't see why it wouldn't work the other.

 

Your LS gauge cluster will work and the RPMs will not be off.

Here is my convertion thread.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=7&TopicID=183746

 

I grabbed this from the thread krweby posted above. This is valuable information and I wanted to have it on my thread as well (so I can find it later).

Might as well do it here so others will have the info. I pulled the wiring a part on the harness that came with the engine to get just the wires I needed to add from it. The engine I picked up was from a right hand drive so the harness was some what different and I was also converting it to obd1. Then I wired those wires and connectors into my LS's harness. Here is a pin out where the wires are needed.

VTEC solenoid goes to pin A4

Secondary intake solenoid goes to pin A17 and the yellow and black wire I spliced into the 12v yellow and black wires for the injectors amonge other things.

VTEC oil pressure sensor will go to D6 and the black wire to ground. (This I didn't do since I have a JDM engine which doesn't have the sensor but I have a USDM ECU so I spliced D6 into A4. This makes the ECU think that everything is okay with the sensor.)

Knock sensor to pin D3 and the shielding wire into the ground wire on the block.

And thats it. If you search on the site you can fined pin out diagrams showing where the plugs are on the ECU.

 

thx yall cool, i only plan to be revving at 8500 any way. i dnt plan to be driving an F1 car lol. thx for the feedback on the cluster.