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Cheap Header or DC

1.5K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  MichaelDelaney  
#1 ·
Sorry if there is a post like this, but I cant find it!

Well anyway, I want to get a header for my teg and my friends keep saying that it doesnt matter what brand. But I think it makes a difference. I was thinking a DC sport but there is the draw of getting some cheap OBX or Tussudo. HELP!! and SS or Ceramic? HELP
 
#6 ·
You keep asking but the answer is in the design and what your using it for (please read to 2 links above). Please do a search and more research if you really want to know.
 
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#7 ·
I recently did loads of research honestly you should stay away from CHEAP, why, it rusts from inside out and more money for your to spend... if you are on a budget go for a ceramic coated... now Dave SMSP has some very good well tested range to fit every budget and coated to last longer...and it will last easy...the eBay junk, tends to be that, OBX et al have poor rating and figures... which is why everyone is going to tell you the same...

DC are better than OBX will also last longer if coated, the Stainless Steel will outlast the CAR! they will not rot... chrome bling bling will rott too over time... so stay away from it just cos its bling bling!....

Read on the articles about the great headers test and revisited... yes DC Sports have great budget headers from $249-$399 dependent on what you want.... but its the whole system you will have to one day change for a better constant flow of velocity... again ensure you know what you buy...

if you can save more money do more weekend work the Comptech Header 4-2-1 is very good, if furious94 still has it and cat back he is the best person to tell you how good this is and it will make a difference on your car even....

Good Luck and happy reading...

Dyno tests have shown certain 4-1s or 4-2-1s performing better however these tests are for specific ones of a brand not for the whole range but it gives you an ounce of knowledge to begin understanding the plethora of what is out there for you!

N
 
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#8 ·
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#9 ·
if the dimensions and layout are the same, it isn't going to make more power no matter how hard you want it to.

the merge collectors do make a difference however but when you're talking cheap, they aren't exactly using state of the art merge collectors.

as far as weld quality and type of steel and fitment are concerned, those are what will separate the cheap good headers from the cheap crap headers...it has nothing to do with performance but does relate to how long they last.



stainless vs ceramic. all I did was enter "stainless" and "ceramic": what was your difficulty in searching for it? are you paralysed from the neck down or something?

oh and look: in that thread they linked to this thread too...amazingly easy to do

we might as well cover header wraps while we're at it here.

MichaelDelaney on Feb/17/05 said:
stainless steel depending on the grade used is in itself a good insulator and emits less heat than say mild steel.

on non-stainless steel headers or low grade stainless steel, the problem with header wrap is that the heat cannot escape off the outside surface and stays there. The heat comes from the lumen of the pipe and conducts from the inside surface to the outside surface of the header but then it just stays there at that outer layer.This causes a heat sink at that outside layer or surface. Usually if the welds are of poor quality or if the steel is crap, you'll get cracking over time at the surface or at the welds from this "heat sinking".

In quality stainless steel headers, the heat is insulated both on the inside surface and the outside surface. So there's less conduction to the surface of heat and also no heat sinking.

The thing to ask yourself is this:

does it make a difference?

Let's say for the sake of discussion that the header does emit heat.

Does it emit heat enough into the engine bay WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING though?

And even if it does emit heat that raises underhood temp, does the temp go up enough to affect your intake temp. And does the "supposed" increased intake temp reduce performance (not hp...et or laptime) ?


From what we know, the "cold air" effect is hyped. When neouser measured the under hood temps in his Teg while he was driving around town and on the highway, the temp difference to the air outside was negligible.

Ok so let's also for the sake of discussion say that the underhood temps skyrocket and makes you lose 2 tenths off your time and you have to insulate.

The best way to insulate is not cheap header wrap. The best way to insulate is to thermal coat BOTH the inside of the header AND the outside. You'll find that coating is pretty affordable and not as expensive as you may think and is better than the wrap with all the claimed pluses or benefits of the wrap and better. It's the proper way to do it. (try hpc's or jet hot's websites)



When people spend $600-1300 on a hybrid header, they usually coat them. They don't header wrap them if they know the consequences of using header wrap.

You don't have to be spending that much money on a header to realize the down side of wrap. You get the header that you can afford and works well enough for your package's goals. You worked hard to get enough cash to pay for the header. Why would you then throw that away over cheap wrap and for what reason? Hype about under hood temp ?

can we re-invent the wheel for you any further?
 
#10 ·
btw my old "best header" article over at automotivetech.org is back up and running to supplement BlueTeg's excellent Header purchasing article here.

I think if you read section 1. in that article, it'll cover the "cheap header" niche.

just to let you know: SMSP has re-released their 1 piece longer hybrid tri-Y which is much less than the famous 2 piece extra long hybrid tri-Y. It thoroughly spanks (look at the powerband from 5500 and up) both the DC JDM and 98 Spec R JDM 4-1 headers (even if they are ported) and has better ground clearance.The hybrid layout (by any brand) is proven to be superior and allows you to match the tranny operating range to the engine powerband range easily for the ones who want to go a lot faster.

That's the "sandbox", as Bill once put it.

Now let's move on....and play in the farm team minor league or house league at least...
 
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