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Brake Line Rust

3.2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  chevymeister  
#1 ·
Hello best friends of ti ;)

Right where my lines drop from the tank into the bottom part of the body cavity where the lines travel seems to have these ****ty clips that hold water and salt. All I had to do was flick the rust and bam, all fell apart. Luckily it was only my fuel return and evap lines which I've successfully cut with pipe cutter and used a pressure rated hose to seal the two parts. This was successful and has been over the winter.

Now I fear my brake lines are succumbing to the same fate and was specifically told by a mechanic NOT to cut these lines because they won't hold due to immense pressure (where fuel return and evap are not pressurized).

I just moved to a new town and all the mechanics here seem to have at least 2 week periods just to look at the vehicle and I mean, if they want to do lines front to back I'm not waiting 2 weeks a shop for them to tell me the job will be one grand.

What I'm wanting to ask if it's possible to splice the bad parts of the line (they are about two feet lengths of brake/fuel send) and use compression fittings to repair the afflicted parts? Or do you have to replace the whole line? I've never done this type of work and my subframe being taken out is not really an option so if I made new lines I'd have to go under the subframe so prebents seem to be out of the question too due to this. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have to commute to school everyday and I have a steady drip now (half a res a week) so I don't know how much longer this ***** will hold haha.
 
#3 ·
Wilco. I don't have bending tools or flaring tools. I've never attempted something like this either. Think it's a good idea to attempt it? Most I've done was bending conduit for electrical, not sure if it's similar but i'd imagine so lol
 
#4 ·
You can still buy the prebent brake lines. It's cheaper to do it yourself though.

Get a bending tool and a nice flaring tool. Get 10' of brake line. Practice half an hour a night for 5 days.

Then do the project. You'll do fine.
 
#9 ·
Actually, I just had to move it on to the road, looked and there's a giant puddle. Look under car, steady drip. It's getting pretty bad now. Half the res drained. ****.

Right where the fuel lines drop from the tank... The plastic sheath begins. Right where those clips are are where it started to rust and move along the bottom side about a foot. I don't think I'll have the car up in the air for awhile.
 
#10 ·
So I ran into this issue years ago when Meltman and I were rebuilding my GSR.

We completely finished the car only to press on the brakes and find a hissing noise coming from under the car. It ended up being my brake line. We tried to replace the section of the line in question however it ended up not working too well. At that time there were few youtube videos to show us how to work our flaring tool properly. I'd highly suggest you watch over them several times to understand completely how to use a flaring tool.

In the end, I ended up having to get my car towed to a shop to have them replace sections of the line for me. Compression fittings are quick, easy, cheap and many have used them with no problems. However they are not DOT approved and the packaging says they are not to be used with high pressure lines. Whether you want to take this gamble is up to you.

Another alternative is to use brass flare unions to section together your brake lines. The most important part to make note of, that Meltman and I were not aware of at the time is; have a knife with you to clean out the rusted brake lines. You will not make a good, centered bubble flare without doing this necessary step. Take a scotch brite pad and clean off any remaining rust on the remaining lines. Use under coating paint to paint over the lines after you're done, hopefully it won't be too much of a headache.
 
#12 ·
Well I got them done at a shop for 250 which wasn't too bad. I don't know what happened but I did have that manual rack in with drilled piston. I didn't notice much difference of a before and after but whatever that guy at the shop did.... I can turn the wheel like it's power steering now and my car goes SIDEWAYS on ****ing turns with this 24mm sway bar. I took a gander at my rear suspension and it all looks like it was left a few nights ago... Before my car would turn in with understeer (which I found odd) What the hell did this guy do to make my car drive this way? I'm actually extremely pleased I took it in to the shop. I don't know how changing two rear brake lines would've changed the handling of my car. He must've seen something else when working around the subframe I am assuming?

And thank you again Lurk for the offer, as I said in PM. It was extremely generous of you. You're a great dude. :vtec228: