Most mechanics will just bend new lines. And some parts of the line can be replaced with rubber hosing to prevent future rust issues.

 

Honestly, i would bend my own before i would bother taking it to the hacks around here! I just dont think i could bent them well enough to fit back in real neat and tight like the OE lines do. I would 4ather pay the 300 for the oe lines and know its done right.... or find an aftermarket option that i could do myself.... to my standards.

So as for the rubber hose.... is there special kinds for fuel and a different type for brakes? Ive seen some places that sell lengths of braded line and various fittings. Would this work for both, or just for fuel?

And if theres rubber line for brakes, wouldnt that be prone to bulg when your braking hard, and make the pedal feel less firm? It just seems like steel would be better for brakes because of that. Or no?

And finally can anyone say why there are two part numbers for the rear section of oe brake line between the 95 and 97 model 3dr gsr?

 

take the old lines and lay them out...then get a line bending tool and follow the bends...

 

I dont think the old ones will come out intact, and they are in such bad shape... swollen and flakey. Basicaly, i dont think the diy brake bending would end up fitting back together very well. Id rather just buy oe lines, if replacing it wih steel is my only option.

Ive been looking for other options. Ive seen some places that sell braided hose and fittings for fuel. The fuel system is relatively low pressure, so using rubber hose doesnt seem like a bad idea to me.. and i can easily replce the fuel pump connection, all the way to the filter. Braided hose runs about $2 per foot, plus the connectors. So i wouldnt save much over the oe lines, but i think the rubber would last longer than the steel, and i can have a lil bit larger diamer hose for better flow.

Then there are some other options as far as the hydraulic brake system. But i dont know if rubber hose would be best for brakes. I mean, it turns to rubber lines at each wheel anyway, but idk if using long runs of rubber hose would lead to spongy brake pedal... from bulging? And if im not mistaken, the oe brake lines are fairly cheap... about $50 per side for the 2 rear sections.

So, at this point, it looks like im gonna go with braided hose for fuel, and oe steel line for brake, unless i find another solution for brakes. Id like to hear some ooinions on using the braided line for brake though, because id rather replace those lines with somehing thats not gonna rust out again.

 

Does anyone know where the vent line connects back by the fuel tank? Does it connect to the pump, tank, or fuel filler neck? And does it transition from hard steel line to rubber before the connection? I know the front side runs to the evap can, but I can't find info about the rear connection!

Also, is the vent hose connection a slip joint with clamps, or does it connect with some special hose or fitting?

FUEL LINES

I've pretty much decided to go with nylon braided 6AN hose and AN fittings and transitions (to NPT). I'm going to do away with the stock tank fuel feed line, the one with the banjo bolts, and run the line directly from the pump to the bottom side of the stock fuel filter in the engine bay. I'm spending a lil extra for the black nylon braid because the whole problem is rust, and I don't wanna re-do the lines if the stainless steel braid rust out in the future. I considered running them through the cabin, under console and carpet, but id rather just keep it outside and go with the nylon. Plus I don't have to drill holes for a bulkhead, or buy the bulkheads.

I'm stopping at the stock filter for now. Everyone memes that the stock fuel system is good for about 500hp, or something like 30lbs of boost (idk), so I'm leaving the stock rail, injectors, and pressure reg in place. I might make a drop hose from filter to fpr, we'll see how it goes.

I'm gonna use 4AN hose, also nylon braided, for the return line.

If I re-run the vent line to the evap, I'm gonna us 4AN for it also. Idk though... hose at $4.50/ft and fittings at $4 and up... I might come up with some other solutuon.

BRAKE LINES

I'm still planning to go with pre-bent oe lines for the rear brakes. I don't like the idea of replacing it wih more steel that'll rust again, but I don't have any other options to speak of... besides running them through the cabin, which hasn't been ruled out yet!... and may be easier than dropping the rear suspension and all to fit oe lines.

I was also planning to buy a POR-15 kit to touh up the underside, so another option is to try painting the new lines with that stuff before I put them on. Idk... just a thought

Although the odds are that the new lines will outlast the car, so maybe I'm worried about it too much! LOL

 

if you look around you can get stainless steel brake tubing. you might need to order it from the internet but it wouldnt rust through anymore

 

THIS DIAGRAM IS FOR THE 97 MODEL GSR 3DR
Sourced from: acurapartsnow.com

Okay, just to be clear...

im looking to replace lines #s 6 and 7, that run between part #30 up front, and terminate at part #3 & 4, in the rear.

I need to know what fitting sizes i have to use to adapt part #30 to AN fittings, which apparently i must use with the stainless line (37* flare). And the same for the back, where the hard line transitions to rubber (#s 3 & 4 in the diagram).

And, im thinking that i may transition to a larger diameter line somewhere in the rear. For starters, the oe lines increase in size back there. But im also thinking that it would be nice to have the line in 2 sections, so i could install it easier, and if necessary in the future, remove a section without having to fish the whole thing out of there!

:edited:

I found a pretty good thread on honda-tech. It would probably be everything i need... IF the pics werent dead links! But it says most of the fittings are 10x1.00mm. Can anyone confirm?

How To: Brake Line Tuck Guidelines.. - Honda-Tech

Also, according to that how-to, ALL the hard brake lines are 3/16". I thought the rear sections transitioned to 1/4". So does anyone know i the lines transition, or is that just extra coating or something?