Before buying everything search the internet for coupon codes for Advance and AutoZone.

If you do not have a press, you will need to find someone who can change your front wheel bearings and hubs.

The rear hub assembly can be a pain to remove all the bearing, so make sure that the races are removed, before placing new parts on to rear.

This only cost me about $400 since I re-drilled my Wilwood top hats and already had ITR rear brakes.

Reason I upgrade was the racecar needed 17x8 for 245/40. In 4x100 it would have been $800 a set, because they are hard to find cheap. The 5x114.3 versions are all over craigslist for about $300, and I needed 3 sets (1 rain and 2 dries.) With a little math it was cheaper for me to do the conversion.

Parts needed:
This is the list of parts and part numbers that I order. I know this way works.

Front Parts List:
-01’ Acura Integra Type R Front Hubs (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
Dealer: 44600-ST7-R00

-94-01’ Acura Integra Wheel Bearing (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
AutoZone: 510030

-Front Spindle Nut (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
Advance: 04972

-Front Caliper and Bracket (23T{ITR}, 25T, and 28T{NSX}) (Quantity: 2) (Ebay junk yard)
If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update
92-94 Vigor ALL LS
92-94 Vigor ALL GS
96-98 TL
95-98 TL
95 TL
97-01 ITR
98-99 CL
97 CL
95-97 Accord Sedan
95-97 Accord Sedan
91-97 Accord Wagon
95-97 Accord Wagon
91-97 Accord Wagon
95-97 Accord Wagon
98-01 CRV EX
98-01 CRV LX
00-01 CRV SE
99-00 Civic Si
Part #:

-Front Rotor (Quantity: 2)
Depending on the Bracket or the caliper the rotor might change.
I am guessing ITR front rotor or 97-01 Prelude Front Rotor, but no idea. If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update.
With 23T Rotor Part #
ITR rotor
With 25T Rotor Part #
???????????????????????????????????
With 28T Rotor Part #
ITR rotor with 1.5mm spacer between bracket and upright with 99-00 RL caliper mounting bracket bolts

-Front brake pads (Quantity: 1 set)
ITR front brake pads

Rear Parts List:
-Rear hub assembly (Quantity: 2)
97-01’ Honda Prelude SH Rear Hubs
Part #:
Advance: NT512144

-Rear Rotor (Quantity: 2)
02-04’ Acura RSX Type S Rear Rotors
Part #:
AutoZone: 31245

-Rear Caliber and Bracket (Quantity: 2)
02+ RSX rear caliber (same as Type S) Ebay, Junkyard
If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update
Part #:


-Rear Spindle Nut (Quantity: 2)
93-02’ Mazda 626 or Protégé Axle Nut
Part #:
Advance: 103-0519

-Rear brake pads (Quantity: 1 set)
ITR rear brake pads

-Rear Dust Cover (Quantity: 2)
97-01’ Honda Prelude SH
Part #:
Honda: 42326-SG0-000


Place I bought from

Acura Dealer (cheaper that local dealer by $80)
acuraautomotiveparts.org

Honda
Local dealer

Advance (look for coupon codes I used a $50 off $150+ -- VISA)
shop.advanceautoparts.com

Autozone
Local joint

Cost Break Down for me with Wilwood front brakes.

Still need
Front calibers -- CL or RL from junk yard are $13 each = $26
Front rotors -- no idea which ones work but ITR are $34 each = $68
Brake pads -- wild card $50 - $500

So you are looking at about $600 if you are going stock to 5 lug, without brake pads.
Labor is something I did not count since all my labor was free.
Ebay wants 850-1000 for 5 lug so not I guess poor man but cheaper.

 

Front conversation

Tools:
Large Hammer
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
14mm socket
19mm wench or socket
32mm socket
*****

Removal
Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold brake line to upright
Remove Brake Caliber, disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) front brakes
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove 3 cotter pins (upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and steering arm)
Remove 3 nuts that hold the 3 ball joints in
Pop out the 3 ball joints
It should now look something like this.

The upright should now be taken some where to get new hub and wheel bearing put in

Install
One the new bearing and hub are pressed in, re-install (axle nut and 3 ball joints), this is also a good time to replace ball points if the look or feel bad.

 

Rear conversation

Tools:
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
12mm socket
32mm socket
Flat blade screw driver
Magnet tool
Heat gun (if bearing is stuck)

Removal

Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold heat sheild
Remove Brake Caliber & disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) rear brakes
Remove E-brake cable if upgrading to ITR (or like)
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove hub dust cap (with screw driver)
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove hub washer

The bearing will most likely come part and one of the races will be still on the shaft, a little heat and pushing with the flat blade and it should move
Once everything is removed it should look like this

Now is a good time to take the bracket from the ITR (or like) brakes and trim the dust shield.

Installation

If for a track car press out studs and press in longer studs
Clean off shaft and place a little bit of lube on it
Slide Hub assembly on the shaft, you might have to tap it gently with a hammer to get it to go all the way
Screw on new Mazda Nut, do not reuse factory nut or the washer
Torque it down and bent over nut
At this point it should look something like this (you should have more brake shield)

Install Rotor, Brake Bracket, and Brake Caliper (Bleed Brakes, if you change caliper)

Install wheel (FYI 255/40 do fit just need some clearancing) RSX rear brake look small with 17inch wheels.

Repeat other side and have fun.

 

Rear conversation

Tools:
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
12mm socket
32mm socket
Flat blade screw driver
Magnet tool
Heat gun (if bearing is stuck)

Removal

Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold heat sheild
Remove Brake Caliber & disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) rear brakes
Remove E-brake cable if upgrading to ITR (or like)
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove hub dust cap (with screw driver)
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove hub washer

The bearing will most likely come part and one of the races will be still on the shaft, a little heat and pushing with the flat blade and it should move
Once everything is removed it should look like this

Now is a good time to take the bracket from the ITR (or like) brakes and trim the dust shield.

Installation

If for a track car press out studs and press in longer studs
Clean off shaft and place a little bit of lube on it
Slide Hub assembly on the shaft, you might have to tap it gently with a hammer to get it to go all the way
Screw on new Mazda Nut, do not reuse factory nut or the washer
Torque it down and bent over nut
At this point it should look something like this (you should have more brake shield)

Install Rotor, Brake Bracket, and Brake Caliper (Bleed Brakes, if you change caliper)

Install wheel (FYI 255/40 do fit just need some clearancing) RSX rear brake look small with 17inch wheels.

Repeat other side and have fun.

Front conversation

Tools:
Large Hammer
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
14mm socket
19mm wench or socket
32mm socket
*

Removal
Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold brake line to upright
Remove Brake Caliber, disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) front brakes
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove 3 cotter pins (upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and steering arm)
Remove 3 nuts that hold the 3 ball joints in
Pop out the 3 ball joints
It should now look something like this.

The upright should now be taken some where to get new hub and wheel bearing put in

Install
One the new bearing and hub are pressed in, re-install (axle nut and 3 ball joints), this is also a good time to replace ball points if the look or feel bad.

i did everything this is saying I used the wheel hub and bearing off of an rsx type s but my bolt doesn’t go in all the way I have a picture to show since the bolt from the 626 didn’t go in all the way with the wheel hub off of an rsx idk if the one from the prelude would work I need help with this was going to prepare to put my car on the ground finally bt the rear trailing arms is wat slowing me down n it’s a risk to drive with that bolt not being a able to lock in place the way it should

 

Other Just In case

 

Subscribed!

 

yeah i like this
could you list pricing as well? like rough estimate of total cost

 

add cost into 2nd post still working on getting front finished.

 

Any updates? Definitely like this route because of the added peace of mind with everything brand new.


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Well the car is as far as it will relate to everyone just going to "Stock ITR", I am still waiting to have my Wilwood top hats redrilled and hub ring milled.

If you just want braking power doing the other brake setup is cheaper, but if you need better wider wheel selection 5 lug is they only way to go.

So far I have 1 set of 17x8 I got for under $300, with RA1. Working on a 2nd and 3rd set right now, and a cheap set for trailer tires. All said and done I should have 4 sets for under $1k, all with R-comp (take-offs).

 

That's great! Definitely gonna wait and do this with replacing my suspension bushings. Those are needed bad lol. Better to do it all at once.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

Just to add to your how to. Orielly's rents a front hub puller that can pop the hubs off the spindle. It attaches to three wheel studs and you twist stud with a wrench so that it presses on the axle and pops it off. It's a nice way to do it yourself for free. Excellent work as always!

 

Would you be able to use the too remove the wheel bearing as well?

 

No I don't think you would. I am guessing you could use the socket trick on that. What I mean is knock it out with a slightly smaller socket. Really I bet the press is the best way to go.

 

Is doing the 5 lug conversion more cause you think its cool and theres diff wheels available or is there like a real reason of doing it?

 

Hr tracks the car and wanted to open up his options for a larger selection of sizes that a 4 lug set up doesnt offer.

 

He said in one of his first posts that prices on available five lug wheels in the sizes/ widths he needs are cheaper than trying to find the same in a four lug.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

Hungry, you beat me to it lol.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

Hahahahaha

 

17x8 4x100 are not easy to find cheap on craigslist's (and offsets that are not 20 - 0)

17x8 5x114.3 are easy to find for around $300-400 on craiglist's

Just pick up my 3rd set now for the racecar, and still under $1000 in wheels

As I have said before the for braking power the 4lug way is cheaper.

When I was looking for wheels I did the math it was going to be around $2500 for 4 sets of wheels, since I could not find any used ones cheap. There were a few for $1k a set.

For 5 lug and wheels I am at around $1300 now, 3 set. Last nigh I just pick up some stock wheels with tires for $50 for trailering wheels. I just need one more set and I will be happy.

When we race we travel with 1set of rains, 2sets of dries and the trailing tire on the car. The 4th set is nice to have for if we find a problem with any of the wheels.

This is not a street car so my thinking is different than a lot of people.

 

wow everyone killed me

 

any pics of your track car?

 

Only one i have on my phone, there are more some where.

Sent from fone, Clue

 

acuraautomotiveparts.org and hondapartsnow.com or hondapartsunlimited.com are great resources

 

yes, shopping around before buy anything is the best for any project

 

make sure the bolts and the clip around the cable are removed

other than that it is just wiggle wiggle wiggle and it will come

 

it is just wiggle wiggle wiggle

Yeah

 

Any updates? Did you complete the project? A final write up with a complete parts list would be amazing as well as a cost total. Very interested in doing this so ill know I have all brand new parts for less than an unknown mileage jdm swap.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

Yes it is complete but I only have a 100 track miles on it, had some issue with the car, and like everything else it is only taking a year to get a harness made correctly for the car.

Will make a write up once I have around 1000miles on them.