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When I had my GSR and an ITR wing on it, I ended up using a double sided foam tape for this situation along with the lower factory mounts. It sounds really cheap, but it held for about a year. I went back to a GSR spoiler, so it didn't matter after that. I think I had some sneakret foam stashed in certain hidden spots to absorb some vibration as well.

I concluded that if I ever did it again, I'd just snag a different hatch altogether. Good luck though!
 

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MeltMan on Oct/08/10 said:
The 2 part epoxy failed.

Stuck to the glass, stuck to the teenuts. I think the problem is thermal expansion putting shear forces on the adhesives causing failure.




I'm going to do a mechanical solution soon and will post pics.
Any updates? New solutions or ideas?

I checked in with my buddy and the two part epoxy we used is still bonded to the 3rd brake light and glass. It's been a little over a year... FYI we used some West System epoxy (marine grade) leftover from a boat hull repair that I did awhile ago. It smells like ass, but it's the strongest epoxy I've ever used.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well I actually built an aluminum frame that is bolted to the inner sheet metal and bolts down inside the light. I thought of posting pics but it likely wouldn't help too many people to actually replicate it - it wasn't a trivial thing to make. Took me a solid 5 hours of cutting, filing, bending, bolting, and test fitting repeatedly to have it fit right.

Typical Meltman overkill.


The epoxy for sure worked better than the rearview mirror stuff. Had the epoxy not sheared off it might have done okay. Like I said it stuck to the tee nuts and stuck to the glass, just sheared in the middle.
 

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New update to this third brake light, I'm about to take it all apart and put a rubber strip back Into place. My friends friend ****ed it up and now when my bass hits it shakes a whole lot.... I'm trying to figure out how to remove it safely with out braking it even more and came accross this haha. I love havin so much Info about the car XD thanks Casey for the beautiful car!
 

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I never could figure out how Casey did this third brake light mounting until I went to his place the other day.

You'll need a dremel, screwdriver, and 1"x1/8"x36" aluminum flat bar from home depot Everbilt SKU #482959

Basically remove the threaded spacers that would hold the light to the glass, remove the three screws that hold the light assembly to the plastic, shave each of those three mounting points down by approximately 1/8". Measure and cut the flat bar to go across those three mounting points and drill your holes to line up. Rescrew that bar back down.

Grab your remaining piece of aluminum bar and rivet/bolt it perpendicular in the middle to your first aluminum flat bar. you will need to bend and shape this piece a bit by eye, having a bench vise will help. Anywhere the aluminum bar kinda touches the plastic inside the brake light housing, you'll have to shave down the plastic webbing on both sides of the plastic clam shell housing. From there, just use a bolt and nut to secure it onto something sturdy underneath the hatch plastics.

Oh and broke the push pin clips that hold the clamshell cover together? I used silver clips on the stock mounting holes and a washer screw to hold it altogether. If anyone needs any, go into any Honda or Acura dealership and ask a technician for those silver clips and screws that hold rear mudguards together from a PDI. Chances are there's tons of them laying around.
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Well there you have it, 10 years later. lol.

The aluminum frame, screwed down inside the housing, trimmed plastic to allow it.

I'll help Nick get it bolted to the metal inside the hatch soon.
Hi Melt!
 

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Here's the update: you'll have to go back to the first page of this thread to reference where the holes would be on the glass. Use a silver sharpie to mark a dot on each side, those will be the reference points of where the corresponding holes on the third brake light should be lining up with.

Line the entire third brake light on an aluminum stick and make a mark where to approximately cut it. Remember you can always cut more off, but can't add to it easily. Also make your first marks on the bar as to where your first two bends will be. After that it's a matter of just bending it back and forth until you get the angles just right to match the curvature of the sheet metal on your hatch. You will definitely need a bench vise for this step.
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Afterwards, there should be a hole approximately in line with where your aluminum bar is running, drill a hole on your aluminum bar to run a bolt and nut through that. Then choose a second spot to drill another hole to give it extra holding power. If you're fancy like me, I opted to use a threaded rivnut on those holes in the sheet metal of the hatch. At the end, leave the bolts a bit loose to finesse the brake light clam shell into place to match up those silver sharpie holes, tighten down the bolts and you're done!

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