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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1997ls Drivers Window. The switch was bad. I got one from someone here but in the meantime...I left the switch hooked up so I could use the pass side. The car is now to me so I didnt know what to make of the clicking every few mins from the door. Read last night its the thermal protect in the window motor. So my old switch was stuck upping the window. I pulled the fuse untill today when I got my switch in the mail. Swapped the switch, replugged the fuse, and... Nothing. Apparently the motor has died but it was just clicking last night while I installed my stereo.So Im thinking I need a motor. My questions are: 1. Is there one online cheaper than the Cardone for 132.99?2. Can I replace the motor without removing the regulator? ( as in do it in the door).

I cant afford the dealership price so I need help from you guys. I replaced one once in a buick century by drilling a few holes in hte door and drilling the rivits holding the regulator to the motor. I dont know what to do with the teg but I sure do need that window down.
 

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I'm almost possitive that you have to remove the regulator because the bolts go from the back of the regulator.


Here is one for the 4 door, couldn't find one for the coupe. It looks different however.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I got the haynes manual for 1996, hope its the same. Found the pins I need to short, etc, will test later today.
Another question, do most people fix this themselves?
If you have done this please reply.

And, after removing window and regulator and reinstalling it, will the window line up the same or will it be a pain to get it right?

... I had just sealed and deadened my doors extensively, thinking I would never have to go in them. Sealed all openings with sheetmetal and 5 layers of mat...argh
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE - So I was able to remove the motor without removing the regulator. There are three bolts 8mm? that hold the motor to reg. These can be removed in the door through the lockbox(orange) opening using a socket or wrench and a mirror to see them. Then loosened 4 bolts 10mm holding reg. to door. The motor comes out.I think it was seized or something because I took the motor apart and reassembled it and it worked. Lubed it real good and back in the door it went.

If you ever have to do this, propping a few 4x6 mirrors in the door will help a lot. Just dont forget to remove them or when you test your newly working window you will think you have broken the window lol.

The helms manual I got is for 96 and shows a different window regulator setup. Mine was much easier.
Some assemblies have two cables coming from the motor that attach to the regulator. Mine did not. It had a gear on the motor and a gear in the door on the regulator. Making it easy to remove. But if your motor has the two cables you will have to remove the entire regulator assy to replace motor. I felt inside the door and realized I didnt have to deal with these cables so replacement would be a cinch. Took ab 45 mins. Fifteen of which were spent removing 5 layers of dynamat with a heat gun and a scraper. only had to uncover the one opening at the front of the door above the speaker hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didnt think I was gonna be able to get that working and I gotta say the teg is much better now. In every way she seems to be happier and relieved. I know I am.
 

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Thanks for keeping the thread updated with good descriptions of the problem and solution. I went through this 2 or 3 years ago with mine, and had to rplace the motor.

I'd recommend, while you had it apart it would've been a good idea to spray some silicone lube on the rubber window track liner. It makes for much better window movement, and lessens the possibility of that rubber piece falling off so the window rattles against the metal track. FYI for next time.

-Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have this type of regulator it seems you have to remove it to replace the motor, but Actually there are two phillips screws that hold the motor (silver part) to the gear and cable (black part) that would allow you to swap out half of the motor. Normally these two parts are one item called the motor, but you can just replace the "actual" motor which is the silver part. I know because my motor had the two parts also and I seperated them to have a look inside, possible unseizing the stuck motor
FlatRate on Sep/30/07 said:
I'm almost positive that you have to remove the regulator because the bolts go from the back of the regulator.


Here is one for the 4 door, couldn't find one for the coupe. It looks different however.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
nsantore on Sep/30/07 said:
Thanks for keeping the thread updated with good descriptions of the problem and solution. I went through this 2 or 3 years ago with mine, and had to rplace the motor.

I'd recommend, while you had it apart it would've been a good idea to spray some silicone lube on the rubber window track liner. It makes for much better window movement, and lessens the possibility of that rubber piece falling off so the window rattles against the metal track. FYI for next time.

-Nick
Definetely do what he said while youre in there. I lubed mine. The track was so dry and had so much friction that the window still was hard to raise lower by hand with the motor removed. It woulda stayed up with just the track friction.
 

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The motor unit is the silver and black part. The black part is where the gear is to turn the cables. Normally the motor comes as a unit where the 3 screws come off.

I''ve done it on the civic coupe and I'm positive its the same as the teg coupe. Pic above is for sedan so definately different.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
*** Removed by user at Oct 8 2007 1:31AM (Server Time) ***

If you have the regulator type pictured and have motor failure you can avoid removing the window and entire assembly by simply swapping the motor. Remove the two screws marked in yellow with a stubby phillips screwdriver.
 
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