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ok ..looking between getting powerstop rotors and pads all the way around..OR I was thinking of just getting the Wilwood integra front brake setup..(around 665$) anyone have any experience with these? also I heard that if you do get this set up..you have to get a new master cylinder...is this true?....thank for your input
 

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i know they are super high quality, almost every import tuner magezine project car is equipped with these. i say if you have the money go for it, saftey mods are really overlooked on this site, Wilwood breaks will not only get respect because people know what expensive quality brakes they are, they will also look cool, and MOST IMPORTANTLY they just might save your life some time when 1-5 feet (the stopping distance over oem is probally much higher than this) stopping distance can mean the difference between a skid and ending up in the guard rail or even worse laying upside down at the bottom of a cliff
 

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where can you get these from -- no one i know can carry them--- and do you mean its 665 for the kit--- is that for just rotors and pads or for calipers too---

also i know they are good quality but dont you have to have bigger wheels to fit them in, are they four piston or two---
give us some more info if anyone has any--
 

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yeh please im interested too almost got aem big rotors but those were over $500 just rotors and caliper relocators
 

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kingkash420 on Sep/12/02 said:
i know they are super high quality, almost every import tuner magezine project car is equipped with these. i say if you have the money go for it, saftey mods are really overlooked on this site, Wilwood breaks will not only get respect because people know what expensive quality brakes they are, they will also look cool, and MOST IMPORTANTLY they just might save your life some time when 1-5 feet (the stopping distance over oem is probally much higher than this) stopping distance can mean the difference between a skid and ending up in the guard rail or even worse laying upside down at the bottom of a cliff
are you a Willwood salesman or something?...save your life? that's a bit over the top man...

rotors alone aren't going to make that big of a change in stopping distance. You won't have to change the master cylinder. Are you getting the 2 piston caliper upgrade with the rotors? Then that WILL make a difference over the stock single piston calipers.

Remember all the the crossdrills or slots do is remove or wick away the gases built up in between the pad and rotor to prevent hot gas build up when you lap in Solo1 or road race. Check out the video of my friend and fellow mod over at hondavision.com Neouser's visit with Mike Bibinoff at Comptech:

Brake Rotor Tech Video

Wilwoods are excellent. Make sure the hat is coated for street use or you'll have to clean them more often to prevent rusting. Remember rotors alone aren't going to shorten your braking distance.

Also, have you checked out www.fastbrakes.com's 4 piston caliper and crossdrilled rotors kit that still allow you to use 15 in. wheels? Remember big brake rotor kits like the AEM ones prevent you from running slicks at the track since you need 17 in. wheels minimum to ahve enough clearance for the rotors and calipers. The drag slicks don't run on anything bigger than 15 in. They sell Willwood as well BTW.

A little less hype would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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For the reasons mentioned, I've given thought to the '98 spec ITR brake conversion. It's a little pricy, but upgrades to ITR spec calipers for the rear and larger rotors that will fit on 15" wheels. I would consider this a well matched upgrade, considering how well the ITRs do.

Changing just one portion of the brakes, like only larger from calipers, will invoke brake bias, which will increase your stopping distance.

Keep in mind that good braking is a total of good components. Suspension, tires, fluid, lines, pads, rotors, and calipers function in this equation.
 

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I wish that video would have gone a little longer. Mike was cut off by saying "people who get these rotors for the street aren't getting...."

I'm guessing he was going to say "enough heat to justify the material loss on the rotor." Any thoughts?
 

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a change in the brake bias by having a change to larger rotors and upgraded calipers only in the front will affect not only your braking distance but also your handling. More front brake bias will induce more oversteer as you trailbrake from the turn in point to the apex.

Yeah Mike B. was providing a lot of insight and debunking some common myths but Neouser ran out of video during the filming.

Neo's going to the Skunk2 fascility next and talking to Dave Hsu and the gang there .
 

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First max out what you have.
Switch to stainless steel lines all the way around. Flush your system with new fluid.
Real pads are keyHawk hp, Axxis ultimate, Aem(decent)etc
Crossdrilled, slotted or both rotors.

If you need more stopping power than that, I suggest getting rid of unnecessary weight.
 

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you don't absolutely need crossdrills or slots or both for the street. that was the whole point. Caliper upgrading and brake pad upgrading would definitely help braking distances. Gvtec is correct. Your brake temps never get high enough during even aggressive street driving since you don't go hard for long enough. Remember in a road racing or lapping Solo1 scenario, you are at the limit braking for many corners per lap, for many laps.

I've seen people using stock rotors during lapping sessions and after 5-10 laps of hard driving they pull into the pits with the rotors literally on fire and the brake pedal all the way to the floor because their stock brake fluid boiled off!!! So yes, the bigger rotors with crossdrills or slots work in a specific situation. That level of driving intensity to get the brake rotor temps up that high on the street rarely happens if at all,...it certainly doesn't happen in drag racing. I prefer slotted rotors since they maintain a better contact area with the pad. Crossdrilled and slotted together would be overkill for the street. We don't drive McLaren F1 GT's and take them to 180 mph down to 20 mph repeatedly. They do look mean though but for function it would be overkill.

Remember that racing pads will bite more, wear the rotors faster, and will be annoyingly noisy (like you killed a cat) everytime you stop. trust me, you'll get plenty of stares and looks from people thinking you need a brake rotor machining job and new pads. If you get Hawk pads, stick to the street/race ones not the full race ones if you intend them for aggressive street driving. once again full race parts are not compatible for street since they wear faster and lose any of the comfort niceties (no compromise).

I use Porterfield R4S (not the full race R4) on my Brembo stock diameter rotors for Solo1 lapping and street driving. they hold up pretty good but do give up some to the full race pads like Panther and Hawk HP's.

Anyone here try the Endless pads yet?
 

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Gvtec on Sep/12/02 said:
I wish that video would have gone a little longer. Mike was cut off by saying "people who get these rotors for the street aren't getting...."

I'm guessing he was going to say "enough heat to justify the material loss on the rotor." Any thoughts?
I just talked to neo and he said that Mike B stated as you suggested that the crossdrilled or slotted rotors don't get hot enough in street use to outgas the brake pads.
 

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still no one has answered my Q's:
price on willwood and where?
are nthey 4 piston or two or onw and do you have to have a larger wheel---
 

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I took a lucky guess at this and it worked.

www.wilwood.com

You might have to do your own research on prices, but their website is a good start for dealers.

Please don't be demanding. Not everyone will spoon feed you information.
 

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95gsrturbo on Sep/13/02 said:
still no one has answered my Q's:
price on willwood and where?
are nthey 4 piston or two or onw and do you have to have a larger wheel---
go to the fastbrakes.com site I had linked in the post above in this thread. as I said, they sell them.

they run around $700 for the complete kit including Willwood 4 piston billet Dynalite calipers, pads, mounting brackets, adapters, and rotors.




the 11 in. rotor kits will fit in 15 in. wheels but for some wheels you may need a 10mm spacer.
 

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Gvtec on Sep/12/02 said:
For the reasons mentioned, I've given thought to the '98 spec ITR brake conversion. It's a little pricy, but upgrades to ITR spec calipers for the rear and larger rotors that will fit on 15" wheels. I would consider this a well matched upgrade, considering how well the ITRs do.

Changing just one portion of the brakes, like only larger from calipers, will invoke brake bias, which will increase your stopping distance.

Keep in mind that good braking is a total of good components. Suspension, tires, fluid, lines, pads, rotors, and calipers function in this equation.
How pricey are we talking for the oem itr upgrade? ballpark figure?

What does the itr upgrade include? rotors? master cylinder? pads? calipers?
 

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DOH!!
i was spelling it wrong in all my searches thats why i couldnt find it-- i thought it had 2 l's -- not wiLLwood -- its wi - L - wood
-- thanks guys-- i thinkn that would be a good price at fastbrakes----
 

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www.ispracing.com did off the '98 spec upgrade, but it doesn't seem to be listed anymore. I believe I was quoted something resonable, but I don't remember.

The '97 ITRs were 4-lug and I believe the kit is ahybrind of those parts. It includes 4 new 4-lug rotors and '98 spec rear calipers. Could include new pads, but I don't remember. It's considered a Spoon Sports product, so consider it DKNY pricing.

Like I said, I believe it's a well balanced upgrade, considering the weight of the car. I don't believe the average Integra/civic needs 13" rotors and 8 piston calipers.
 

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Gvtec on Sep/13/02 said:
Like I said, I believe it's a well balanced upgrade, considering the weight of the car. I don't believe the average Integra/civic needs 13" rotors and 8 piston calipers.
yep, the Realtime fellas ran at one time standard rotor diameters on their road racing setups. Nice stock diameter slotted rotors up front and nonslottted in the rears with fat ass mother clamping 4 piston Brembo calipers and standard.



 

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So the 97 Type-R has 4-lug? That's good to know.

Is that dryer hose, looking thing, leading to the brake caliper, used for cooling ducts like you mention in my other post?
 
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