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A 2" driver, doesn't have enough Sd (the effective piston diameter of the driver) to make much noise below 500hz or so. They'll work as subs, in a quiet room, in a big box for their size, at low power levels. That's why the first thing in the ad is "full range" which is also something of a misstatement. Those drivers, for what they are, aren't good for much IMO.

In a car, on the road, they'll be inaudible at any safe power level when used as "subs".

Get a reasonable 10 or 12", but it in a 1-2cuft box that's been designed using the T/S parameters of the driver, and power it with 300-500W. That's the basic formula for car audio subs that don't suck. Make sure to account for cabin gain when the box is designed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Of course they CAN work. I would save your money and go with a quality amp and set of components if you are serious about car audio.
These have been like the only 2" inch subwoofers I can find.
I would just throw some bigger subs in the back, but I don't want that extra weight.. so I'm putting small ones in the doors. Right in the extra speaker spots next to the door handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A 2" driver, doesn't have enough Sd (the effective piston diameter of the driver) to make much noise below 500hz or so. They'll work as subs, in a quiet room, in a big box for their size, at low power levels. That's why the first thing in the ad is "full range" which is also something of a misstatement. Those drivers, for what they are, aren't good for much IMO.

In a car, on the road, they'll be inaudible at any safe power level when used as "subs".

Get a reasonable 10 or 12", but it in a 1-2cuft box that's been designed using the T/S parameters of the driver, and power it with 300-500W. That's the basic formula for car audio subs that don't suck. Make sure to account for cabin gain when the box is designed.
These have been like the only 2" inch subwoofers I can find.
I would just throw some bigger subs in the back, but I don't want that extra weight.. so I'm putting small ones in the doors. Right in the extra speaker spots next to the door handle. I'm thinking since they are right next to you they'll make a difference. I don't need a ton of bass, I just want a lil more.

I'm just asking wither or not I'm gonna **** my **** up by using these.
 

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These have been like the only 2" inch subwoofers I can find.
I would just throw some bigger subs in the back, but I don't want that extra weight.. so I'm putting small ones in the doors. Right in the extra speaker spots next to the door handle. I'm thinking since they are right next to you they'll make a difference. I don't need a ton of bass, I just want a lil more.

I'm just asking wither or not I'm gonna **** my **** up by using these.
The problem is that a 2" full range driver, when used as a sub, can produce only a tiny amount of bass information. That will be swamped completely by road noise as soon as you start driving, and will likely be swamped by the bass produced y the 6.5"s in your doors. It's not worth it in a car, especially for bass.
 

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the bigger the speaker, the lower the frequency it can hit.

ever wonder why tweeters are tiny and subs are huge?

the smaller the speaker, the higher it can go
 

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Hoffman's Iron Law:

Small, Low, Efficient. Pick 2.

The 2" drivers are small, but not efficient. To make them go low would require insane amount of power (well beyond physical limits of the suspension). Think around 100-200W. That will literally melt the voice coil.

For auxiliary bass in an Integra, with component 6.5s in the front, nothing less than an 8" should be considered. 10-12 is the sweet spot unless you like dubstep or crazy hiphop, then you need a 15-18" beast.
 

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Don't bother with these 2" subwoofers, especially if you plan to put them in your doors.

The lightest way to install a subwoofer would be to:

- Find a quality 8"-10" subwoofer
- Find a quality mono subwoofer amp
- Wire the amp under the seat/dashboard to reduce the amount of power cable needed
- Run speaker wires back to the trunk
- Purchase a plastic molded subwoofer enclosure OR fabricate a fiberglass enclosure
- Install and enjoy

Smaller, single subwoofer
+ small amplifier
+ fiberglass/plastic enclosure
+ minimal power cable
= relatively lightweight

You can also find self-contained units like bass tubes, OEM subs from other cars, and generic self-powered subwoofers (like Infinity Basslink) that would fit the bill.
 
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PeteTheCarFreak
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