Team Integra Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Temperature reading for your gauge cluster.

Given your probably trying to unplug it - it's just a single wire popped into it. Grab the black rubber boot and pulls off. No special technique to it. Just don't yank on the wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Light Product Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Auto part

Here's that area for a gsr - us non vtec plebs have the same stuff in similar places, just no vtec oil pressure and solenoid.

So you don't have a coolant temp gauge on your cluster? That's..... Strange.

I can't think of any compatible cluster that doesn't have the gauge.... Unless someone cut it out to put a wideband or boost or some other hackery in there...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
ah yes, I misunderstood…wait, if that sensor provides the signal for the dash gauge, why can’t it use the coolant temp sensor’s feedback? What does having the 2nd sensor and wiring for it gain over just using the coolant temp sensor’s data?
We got a fan switch, a gauge sender, and an ECU temp sensor. One hand 3 sensors is more things the break.
On the other pretty easy to debug when one thing isn't aligning with the others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
In 4? Years and like 30k miles of owning a very very neglected 94RS with now 290k miles..... I've had a mishimoto low temp thermostat stick closed. A Parts store lifetime/high end TStat stick closed. And A Parts store TStat stick open. The next time I touch that damn TStat OEM is going in.

Sooo... Check for a stuck TStat. (Open takes forever to warm up, closed won't cycle coolant so the top hose gets hot as hell while the lower radiator hose stays warm/hot).

Check for fan switch (fan should kick on after idling up to temperature - note that it can take forever at idle on a cold night with hood open)

If it isn't your TStat it could be the coolant temp sensor has gone bad (I don't remember the resistance to check them but like $17+ some thread sealant and it's swapped)

If it still does it and your sure the tstat isn't stuck closed and your fan does infact kick on, it'd be a bad gauge in the cluster...

As far as self saving systems:
I've worn a hole in a heater hose through a mountain pass and limped it to a parts store with very little coolant. I then had the first stat stick a while later which due to enjoying the drive didn't notice till steam started coming out of the hood while it was snowing. Limped that home about 20 miles. The next stickage was found when it started maxing the temp gauge in drive through lines when I had the radiator fan switch go out at the same time....oh and I had a plastic end cap on the stock radiator warp enough to piss coolant out the bottom...

And my compression is still good, and I don't have coolant in my oil or vice versa..... Sooooo with all that I did (let alone the prior owners who drove the poor girl to the ground before I got her) the head gasket is still intact.

So nothing in obd1 (94-96) cars to save you from yourself.. but resilient buggers. Def check your oil for coolant, coolant for oil, and compression test if you've been overheating. Concern is warp block->failed headgasket->oil milkshake->bye bye motor.

OBD2 cars might throw a engine light at you. Dunno.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top