I have a 2000 integra gsr. The only mod that I have for more power right now is an aem cold air intake. I'm going to order a few things within a week or two and I was wondering if anyone can help me out on what to add next for power. Most likely I'm going to order an apex N1 exhaust with a few things such as a short shifter and autometer tach (my 6 color indiglo gauges drag when its damp out). I was also thinking about adding an aem fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. Is there something I should add before the fuel components? Also, what brand of short shifter should I go for?
What to do
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there is no such thing as the next part to get....I suggest you sit down and plan out what your performance goal is, where your powerband is going to be located (gains in the midrange or upper rpms?), and your budget over the time that you will own the car.
once you answer those very basic beginner's questions, you then determine if your goals can be achieved by FI or N/A and whether your budget and tuning resources can achieve them (experience and having a local dyno shop with experience helps).
you see, beginners have this mentality that you add a "next part" and it will definitely gain power each time. In reality, if you purchase a part with the wrong design, it can actually lose power or cancel out the gain you got with your intake or move the powerband to an area on the rpm range that makes your engine undriveable at normal street rpm ranges.
You see, the engine is divided into systems. A system is composed of many parts. They work together in harmony to do a function. For instance, the intake SYSTEM is composed of the intake, TB, IM, head, and cams. If your next part is a TB and it is too large, the next part can gut any flow increase you got from the intake you had bought. If your next part is an IM and you get the wrong design, you can gut midrange power.
Another example: the beginner's popular second "next part" choice, an exhaust. If you get the wrong exhaust size, it can actually decrease power gains from the other 2 parts of the exhaust SYSTEM (which are the cat and the header). If you don't know what features an exhaust should have, you can end up with a coffee can sounding bumble bee hive that decreases or hinders power. If you consider the entire size of the whole exhaust SYSTEM (header,cat,and exhaust) first instead, the whole system will gain greater power compared to buying an exhaust based on how it sounds or separate from the cat or header.
It's all about building the engine package first on paper or in your mind and then choosing the parts you need in any order you want...and buying them in any order....as long as you eventually end up with the systems having compatible parts that gain BIG hp. Not step by step gains (or losses).
This site was founded upon the fact that we do NOT believe in the "next" part to get. You cannot buy your way up to 200whp like adding Leggo blocks. It doesn't work that way.
You need to understand WHY and WHAT DESIGN features to look for and then to build your SYSTEMS UP NOT INDIVIDUAL PARTS IN ISOLATIoN. You can start by educating yourself and reading the Articles located on the menu to your left. We use the Articles to bring beginners up to speed and on the right track instead of giving you a quick short answer that lacks depth. We have a tech archive here as your resource of knowledge based on experiencedmember's input. They took the time to write it to help people just like you. I hope you take the time and invest in learning how to do this hobby the smart way.
Welcome to Team-Integra BTW...
then again, if you just want a loud car buy whatever you want in any order....
once you answer those very basic beginner's questions, you then determine if your goals can be achieved by FI or N/A and whether your budget and tuning resources can achieve them (experience and having a local dyno shop with experience helps).
you see, beginners have this mentality that you add a "next part" and it will definitely gain power each time. In reality, if you purchase a part with the wrong design, it can actually lose power or cancel out the gain you got with your intake or move the powerband to an area on the rpm range that makes your engine undriveable at normal street rpm ranges.
You see, the engine is divided into systems. A system is composed of many parts. They work together in harmony to do a function. For instance, the intake SYSTEM is composed of the intake, TB, IM, head, and cams. If your next part is a TB and it is too large, the next part can gut any flow increase you got from the intake you had bought. If your next part is an IM and you get the wrong design, you can gut midrange power.
Another example: the beginner's popular second "next part" choice, an exhaust. If you get the wrong exhaust size, it can actually decrease power gains from the other 2 parts of the exhaust SYSTEM (which are the cat and the header). If you don't know what features an exhaust should have, you can end up with a coffee can sounding bumble bee hive that decreases or hinders power. If you consider the entire size of the whole exhaust SYSTEM (header,cat,and exhaust) first instead, the whole system will gain greater power compared to buying an exhaust based on how it sounds or separate from the cat or header.
It's all about building the engine package first on paper or in your mind and then choosing the parts you need in any order you want...and buying them in any order....as long as you eventually end up with the systems having compatible parts that gain BIG hp. Not step by step gains (or losses).
This site was founded upon the fact that we do NOT believe in the "next" part to get. You cannot buy your way up to 200whp like adding Leggo blocks. It doesn't work that way.
You need to understand WHY and WHAT DESIGN features to look for and then to build your SYSTEMS UP NOT INDIVIDUAL PARTS IN ISOLATIoN. You can start by educating yourself and reading the Articles located on the menu to your left. We use the Articles to bring beginners up to speed and on the right track instead of giving you a quick short answer that lacks depth. We have a tech archive here as your resource of knowledge based on experiencedmember's input. They took the time to write it to help people just like you. I hope you take the time and invest in learning how to do this hobby the smart way.
Welcome to Team-Integra BTW...
then again, if you just want a loud car buy whatever you want in any order....
Thanks for the response. I read a lot of the articles and that's why I decided on the apex N1 exhaust because the 60mm pipe diameter should be good for my setup now. I was thinking about getting a stepped header with a 2.5 inch collector, replacing the cat with a 2.5 inch test pipe, and then the 60 mm exhaust. That should work well together. I don't want to get a different intake manifold right now because I would then need a new intake which is rediculous since I've only had the one I have now for a few months. The power I want to make will most likely be for the upper rpm's. Mainly because that's what's most important for racing and if I need to sacrifice a little low end or mid range power it shouldn't be too big a deal while driving around the city. So any ideas of what brand short shifter to get? I've heard of many people breaking theirs, I don't want to end up with something that's going to break so I was thinking maybe skunk2 since it's not aluminum?
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21,139 Posts
there's not much to separate shifters. The throws can be reuced anywhere from 33-50%. The problem is the notchiness that goes with the cheaper brands. The throws aren't as crisp. Fitment and finish (anodized or painted) usually makes the better ones stand out. The brand you choose should come with it's own polyurethane shifter bushing or a mechanism that ensures a crisp throw. I chose a Neuspeed but that doesn't mean it's the only one out there. just ensure that the bushing is upgraded. BTW B&M and DC are notorious for having loose notchy shifters...unless you spend the extra cash and get the B&M shifter kit or buy a separate Prothane or Energy bushing. Remember to lubricate the bushing.
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21,139 Posts
you won't break a shifter BTW..that's just somebody popping some marketing BS in your head.
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