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Discussion Starter #1
1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k

Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)

I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?

Are these near where they will be working on?

Any other tips?
 

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You could change tstat since coolant will have to be drained, but the rest of those jobs are kinda separate. Things I've heard thrown around to do when you're in there (in general, not specific to integras): cam seals, main crank seal, accessory belts.
 

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I assume it's given you're replacing the time belt as well? If so, since you have the valve valve cover off, check the valve clearance.

Vacuum hoses need to be replaced when leaking, but that's not specific to replacing the water pump - you can do that really any time. And I think that only leaves the PCV hose and brake booster hose?

Oxygen sensors are in the exhaust piping, on either side of the converter - again, not specific to a water pump job. If the wiring is bad, you can change them. But I wouldn't bother unless a DTC is set or if you don't recall when they were last changed.

The tensioner is a good idea - it's likely what came with the car, so it will be a bit wobbly. Get the tensioner spring as well, cheap from Acura.

If you're changing the crank seal, be uber careful with the crank timing gear. I broke a tooth trying to get it off. Ended up drilling the keyway out, then wrapping the gear in leather and twist with a pair of channel locks. Doesn't take much surface corrosion to lock the crank and gear together. New gear from Acura was an easy 50, and the key from them was under 5 bucks.

Cam seals require the cam sprockets and end 'caps' to be removed, not too tricky.

Go back on with new drive belts, and you might check on the condition of the side engine mount (a far stretch; however, as I'm sure it's still in great shape).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you @silvertexasteg and others.

@silvertexasteg you covered quite a good points, all around.

I always replace Cam and Crank seal - not sure if the mechanic did it on my 3rd gen Integra since it was bulk billed at $255 for labor (and I supplied the parts - after repair he showed me old parts).

With this car, it was a different m/c and he charged separately and also supplied parts. He also said it was leaking any way.

I buy the KOYO (OEM) tensioner from importrp dot com for just about $25-$35. M/c said tensioner (from 1996) is really good and wanted to reuse (otherwise $60). Even my timing belt of 18yrs is fine - no hairline cracks - I have periodically checked and postponed the Timing Belt (recent emission results pointed to me that it needs a timing) - but we changed it. It just the water pump of 18yrs gone bad. M/c got a Toyota OEM waterpump for $60. This was an unplanned repair. I even had to rent a car for a day.

em, the tensioner spring is a new ides to me - thanks. Engine mount was changed about 5yrs ago.

After the repair, car runs much smoother, a lot of the vibration is gone, and even the tranny seem to shift better!

Only thing was the labor for the Timing belt/Water pump was $420 - he is known to be a honest m/c - he did quote me upto $550 but done it for $535. Sometime back this m/c might have quoted $300 and not sure it exclude the water pump or the price is gone up. My thinking was this car needed a good attention from a reliable m/c and I took it to him - it terms of quality, a total satisfaction.

I skipped the valve adj since it was an extra $100. But there is no bad sound coming from the valved and it was done about 10yrs ago by a friend m/c and a good m/c. Sometimes I am puzzled how some of this repair last - valve adj, timing belt.

But it looks to me once you reach 75k/80k mileage (irrespective of time), Timing belt/Water pump is a Must. For my 3rd gen Integra, at 80k, all the rubber became bad so I changed them all (even engine oil tank gasket). Not sure quality if rubber is getting bad or 3rd gen runs a bit hotter.
 
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