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Discussion Starter #42
Could you use the TL/Legend calipers from the rear? I'm not sure if the rears can be utilized but 'I've seen people use them on the front. A machined bracket may be all you need.
Any idea if the rear rotor dimensions of the TL/legend match those of the front rotor of a type R or a 4lug integra?
 

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wait you want a transverse, mid engine, turbo B series, but you want to make sure xxx stock stuff fit.

after all the custom work does it really matter what rotors/calibers it is easy enough to make a spacer/bracket/brace to make anything work
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Rotor or caliper? And honestly im not sure, the is next to no information on the rear brakes of either car.

5 lug '01 TL:
View attachment 19730
So it appears that the ITR front rotor is:

H: unknown
OD: 281.3 mm
Th: 23mm
Vented

and the '01 TL rear is:

H: 58.93 mm
OD: 282.2 mm
Th: 9.02mm
Solid

So... the bolt pattern and the OD are the same and that's about it. I think if I actually got a TL rear caliper in my hand, I could see just how realistic it is...
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Updated tentative schedule...

Task List and Schedule Sheet - B18 Mid Engine Rear Wheel Drive Turbo Project Completion Date

PLANNING STAGE
Coordinate with RLI for the release of the wrecked race car from the shop to open up a garage bay 11/25/2013
Re-read Dave's DC2H22 thread and make a cliffs notes list of things to keep in mind/plan/review/further develop 11/30/2013
Read thru cliffs notes
Post up questions from cliffs notes
Acquire '94-'01, 2 DR, manual trans Integra with acceptable frame for front horn donation (or maybe an auto coupe using the Hasport Auto->Manual mount? 12/13/2013
Potentially re-acquire the old track car at auction 12/13/2013
Pull parts from old track car (if acquired) & assess engine & transmission condition among other usable parts 12/20/2013
Read up on Race Car Design by borrowing Mid-Engine Dave's copy of the SAE book & pick up bump steer gauge 12/31/2013
Get the project car registered as historic for the winter (because it has heat!) 1/3/2014
Pull body panels and whatever is needed to get accurate measurements on the clip from the donor car -> use digital level, tape measure, etc. to set up the frame level and get reference points/angles 1/4/2014
Acquire digital plump bobs, range meters, angular measurement tools, bump steer gauge, etc. - based on reading 1/17/2014
Decide how I want the car to feel and handle in the transverse mid-rear configuration… - based on reading 1/18/2014
Perform basic measurements on front clip and rear hatch to see if it will even fit! 1/31/2014
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Also... got the following response from FastBrakes:

"The only thing that comes to mind would be to use either a single piston caliper with mechanical park brake, or a multi piston caliper with levers that clamp the pads to act as a park brake.

I would have to design and fabricate either system as there isn’t anything like that available off the shelf. I’d need some more info such as wheel size, etc before I could give you any kind of estimate.

thanks"
 

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Discussion Starter #52
If I am thinking of your idea correctly you're saying keep the OEM front brake as the hydraulic, pedal affected stopping power and then have a separate OEM rear caliper without the hydraulic line hooked up, but, rather, just have the handbrake cables hooked up, right?

This could work!
 

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What does historic registration do/get you? I've seen collector plates on cars here. Same thing?
 

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Historic basically means no inspections. Just registration if the car is 20 years old or older with an annual mileage limit of 5,000 miles.
Double check your state's regulations on this. Many stipulate that the car can not be used as regular transportation, and that it should only be driven to shows/exhibits, or as part of a parade, tour, or club event.
 

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Crazy our beloved dc's are able to be registered as "historic" cars. Atleast parts are readily available :)


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
this varies greatly by state apparently, because in GA its 30 years for historic and 25 years to escape emission testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Double check your state's regulations on this. Many stipulate that the car can not be used as regular transportation, and that it should only be driven to shows/exhibits, or as part of a parade, tour, or club event.
You're correct. Luckily, I was on the SEMA panel for the state of MD protecting historic tags. Their main concern is the damage to the environment caused by cars operating with crappy emissions controls over extended mileages.

In MD, they don't really care about what you use the car for until you hit that 5,000 mile mark.

Regardless, this car will obviously not be a commuter and will be used solely for weekend cruising, track days, and other club events.
 

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If I am thinking of your idea correctly you're saying keep the OEM front brake as the hydraulic, pedal affected stopping power and then have a separate OEM rear caliper without the hydraulic line hooked up, but, rather, just have the handbrake cables hooked up, right?

This could work!
Look at these. Pretty typical stuff on an NSX.



 

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Discussion Starter #60
yup... that's kinda what i was thinking based on your description.

My only fear would be that since i rarely use the handbrake when i park, the few times that I might need it, it might not move since it typically doesn't get used.

I guess I'd have to actuate the function on a regular basis just to keep it from locking up.

In other news, I should find out whether or not I am getting my old track car back by mid week. If I do, then I have a perfect opportunity to test this concept since I'll have an entire car to play with (that already has the 5 lug on it).

The crappy part is that I'll have to buy two front halves of a 5 lug setup to make the project car work in the end (since the race car hit a wall head on at like 90 MPH so i don't trust any of the front suspension yet)... That might be a bit tough.
 
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