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Discussion Starter #1
Which should I do for my 99 Integra GS?
The car has 55,000Kms, and compression is good. I'm looking for a streetable car that can go the the track once in a while and pull a low 14 or high 13's, no auto x-ing for me.

If I go turbo, I would like to keep the stock internals to keep costs down, thinking T3. Don't know much about the ls/vtec so not sure if it can make enough power for me. I'm assuming the H22 would be about the same money as a turbo setup, and I would like to keep my a/c and power steering.

Any input is appreciated, and if you have direct experience with any of these setups that is even better, I don't like hearing 'I think this, or I've heard that'
Thanks so much!!!
 

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I have a LS/VTEC/TURBO ! one word $EXPENSIVE$ ! It's like the best of both worlds...Compression of the LS bottom and VTEC not to mention a T3-T4 monster ! As far as relaible..Make sure it's done CORRECT and by a good shop etc. and you should be ok. LS/VTEC is good for about 20-25HP so not a bad add on and once you Turbo...the sky is the limit ! Do a compression and leakdown test to be double sure your motor is ready for FI !

T3 will suit you just fine..quick spool ups. Stock internals on low boost and normal driving say 6-8psi tuned your in the 14's for sure 13's if you can drive her ! Let me know if I can be of help...

Good luck..
 

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These questions never make sense in my head. YOU have to do some research and see which one is right for YOU.

If you're keeping your internals, you can't boost more than 6-8 PSI, but if you want to stretch it, then 10 PSI seems like the cutoff. It all depends on tuning and what turbo you pick as to what kind of numbers you put up.

LS/VTEC...have you read about this? If done wrong, it can be VERY unreliable, once again look some things up. You will be slightly faster than a gsr stock for stock if done correctly.

H22...good for straight lines, cheaper than a b18c5, but not faster. You can keep your ac and power steering but it will be a very tight squeeze. Heavier than a c5 also (yeah, that comment will spark a debate).

Look some things up on the net and read about all three types and see what best fits you. If you would have done that, you could have narrowed down some hp numbers and that probably would have helped you out. Good luck with whatever you decide....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick responses.
I have done research on each topic, but I wanted opinions on why people choose to go FI over a swap or ls/vtec as I am sure they wree once in at a crossroads of what to do.

Yes I have 'heard' that the ls/vtec can be unreliable, and wasn't sure of its capabilities going N/A.
If going turbo I would stay close to 7psi for reliability issues.

Going H22, seems like I can could good hp with i/h/e, not worries about the wieght really, as I have seen the debates.

Anyone else, help me decide and what your experiences are, would you do it again, if not what route would you have gone, if in my position.
Thanks!!
 

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personally i want to go turbo

You can turbo it now and run 7 psi or so and have a pretty fast car. In the future you can change pistons, rods...totally built the bottom up and have a monster integra for dragging
 

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I wouldn't drop an H22 in if you are autocrossing since it is about 70-100 lb heavier than the B18's. The front/rear weight distribution is too biased to the front and would make cornering more difficult (understeer). No question, the H22 would be fast in a straight line. You have to relocate the AC, use aftermarket 91-93 Integra driveshafts, use a Hasport mount kit, use an H22 tranny only and the ECU/VTEC harness, and ensure the engine is intalled with enough clearance for the IM so that it does not hit the firewall and the driveshafts sit at the same angle as the stock setup.

A turbo will have lag...even a small one. In autoX, lag out of a corner is a killer. This is why you may want to look at a 8psi SC kit instead. You can ask Gvtec who autoX's using a SC'd GSR. The SC will get you the power for your goal without the lag.

For the power you want, a turbo T3 is fine...but there are different kits available that run on stock internals using a Diamondstar or Mitsu small turbo as well with around 8 psi, 310 injectors, and an ECU update that make 200 whp with ease if you have a 3 in. exhaust system.

You don't have to do an LS VTEC or even a turbo LS VTEC to get into the 14's. A straight turbo is a bolt-on without the vacuum, coolant, oil leak problems these things see over 1.5 years of use depending on the builder. Remember, the head and block are frankensteined together using some simple basic machine shop methods in an LSVTEC. Add more cylinder pressure inside to a setup that has been frankensteined together and it's a recipe for future longevity problems. Your LS head and block do not need any adjustments when you just add a turbo. If anything, you can use ARP head studs on the LS head and block to ensure good clamping force down on the head with a turbo but this is not necessary for the boost that will get you into the 14's. Also remember that going into the 14's is also about getting that power to the ground (tire/suspension/mounts) and not only about engine mods. If you pay for a VTEC head, pay a machine shop to fit everything properly to prevent leaks, then pay for a turbo, think about the leftover money you could have spent on the suspension items if you had just gotten only the SC or turbo kit instead....bang for the buck...
 

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"I wouldn't drop an H22 in if you are autocrossing since it is about 70-100 lb heavier than the B18's."

Hey MD, I think you misread what he said. He wants a track car, he doesn't autox, hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the response Michael,
I won't be auto x-ing, thats why I'm considering the H22, just thinking how difficult it would be to get that in there.

If I do go turbo its with a T3, but what are these list with the DSM snails, like the T28 or 14g etc ones?

I'm aiming for more low 14s or 13s, I have h&r springs already and am working on other suspension and wheel/tire stuff.
 

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Justin Klemgold on Sep/12/02 said:
"I wouldn't drop an H22 in if you are autocrossing since it is about 70-100 lb heavier than the B18's."

Hey MD, I think you misread what he said. He wants a track car, he doesn't autox, hehe.
actually, I was addressing the autoX issue. it was a generic answer not just for the initial poster of the question...

thanks.
 

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Sorry MD, I thought you misread it...I wasn't trying to be a smartass or anything, I just thought you made a mistake...
 

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SmoothGS on Sep/12/02 said:
Thanks for the response Michael,
I won't be auto x-ing, thats why I'm considering the H22, just thinking how difficult it would be to get that in there.

If I do go turbo its with a T3, but what are these list with the DSM snails, like the T28 or 14g etc ones?

I'm aiming for more low 14s or 13s, I have h&r springs already and am working on other suspension and wheel/tire stuff.
the H22's limit you in terms of what tranny you can use...whereas the Bseries have a lot more choices.

The Garrett based turbos are very good in terms of efficiency and lag issues and that's why they are so popular but the DSM/Mitsu based turbos are cheaper and can be made to run with essentially similar performance traits. I think Mike Kojima did a nice article on choosing what off the shelf turbo you need in the July 2002 Sport Compact Car. He catalogued all the ones available on the market and in the junkyards (and I mean all of them) that you can find and what the trim & A/R were for each. If you want to streetfighter turbo you will give up some top end power (don't get me wrong what FI guys consider low in terms of upper rpm power, we all motor guys consider high...LOL) for less lag. The trim and A/R and type of turbine/compressor (ball bearing vs non ball bearing) will affect lag.

The Mitsu 14B is better than the 13G from the automatic eclipse. A lot of people are going for Mitsu TE4h13c 's used in 2.2 L chrysler shelbys from the junkyard or Mitsu td5g16h turbos off the shelf...low boost but lotsa kick without the big lag delay.

a completely preassembled kit would be easier though for sure.
 
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