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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
dyno graphs are on page 5

after alot of work, i have finally been full tuned.
i will get some pics of the dyno up soon. the results were:
[email protected] and 196.1ft/[email protected] on 8psi. he stoped the dyno at 7860rpm, and at that point my power was still growing pretty fast.
my setup is as fallows
precison sc 40 turbo with gt wheels specked out by theshodan(mac at speed trapp consulting)
rev hard ac/compatable manifold
rev hard bar and plate intercooler
2 inch charge piping from compressor housing to intercooler
2.5 inch charge piping from intercooler to throttle body
tial 38mm wastegate
turboxs type h blow off valve
greddy e-manage
greddy e-01 boost controler
precision 440cc low impedance injectors
3 inch downpipe, with 3 inch exhaust and no cat
act 8.8lb flywheel
act organic street disk and extreme pressure plate
fal slim line fan
baffled oil pan
oil catch can
no a/c
no power steering
blitz full auto turbo timer.
stock gsr block with stock compression, stock gsr head, stock intake manifold and throttle body. all with 50k miles
old and prolly blown distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires.
so now after about 2 months of working out the minor problems with a downpipe that i bought online that didn't line up with anything, the dumptube, the injectors, the catch can, the oil pan, spark plugs, and blowing a spark plug wire on the dyno. i am pretty happy with the results i got, and i am even more happy i can drive my car now. tuning was donw by dan at godspeed inc and the turbo setup with the exception of the downpipe was put togather by mac at speed trapp consulting
 

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What was the dyno chart looking like? What was the correction used? What type of Dyno was it? Cause from what I see so far its hard to believe with such a simple set-up and I'm sorry but I see no such thing as an SC40 turbo from Precision and where I work we are a distributor for them. As well as if you have the GT40 turbo specs? how the hell you getting an .94 or 1.34 AR turbo to spool sooo soon on such low boost.

It is not impossible to attain but I thinkt here sare some missing variables here that need to be discussed. You would need some seriosuly good tuning besides just a greddy blue box to get to those numbers.
 

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I didn't believe it myself xrtdac, until I saw it. You're right, there is no SC40, but I did spec out a GT32E (now known as) for him at the time, based upon an SC44 turbo with a slightly modified 55 exhaust trim in a .63 A/R.

The dyno was a dynapack that calibrated for actual load. I was there during the session, and even I thought that his first tune at 261whp @ 176ft/lbs, was a bit high, but the tuner based it on better turbo efficiency.

The box wasn't the typical "blue box" that I believe you're thinking. Godspeed is one of only 4 shops in the country that actually put together and tuned 1 of 6 350z Greddy turbo kits in the country. Even Greddy uses them to R&D new products and materials. The E-manage is VERY capable in the right hands, it's just a bit difficult to find someone with that kind of experience, and tuning ability. He even has a slightly crush-bent 3" exhaust..

I'm sure he still has the map..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
there were plenty of people from this site who saw the 261whp baseline untuned base map run. i didn't belive the numbers at first either.
people who saw the dyno,
matt_of_mi
nightcrawlergsr
lsturboteg
theshodan
or you could e-mail dan at godspeed and ask for a chart of my dyno if you still don't belive it. www.godspeedinc.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the dyno chart was very very smooth also, the hp never droped off, and was one straight line the whole time except for when i hit vtec i jumps a bit.
the torque is flat, then jumps about 70-80ft/lbs and then goes flat agian after 7240rpm
 

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see now that makes sense the whoel turbo thing. The dynapack though isn't a true power to the ground though from what I have found with talking to Dynojet. Or at least its not as accurate a figure as the roller dynos since you are just clamping on to the hubs vs measuring the power at the contact point on the ground. I mean how many people have lost power going up in size ont here rims and tires, same is applicable here to where you put more rotational mass on you will lose some more power to the ground.

With all that cleared up on the tuning and the turbo as well as waht dyno set-up it was. Good numbers. I am a believer of them now for sure. Just seemed a bit weird at first with what you said. Look forward to seeing your chart. I will have to overlay my daily driving one to see soem LS vs GSR differences.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
actuly the dynopack is alot more accurate than the mustang dyno. an accurate dyno will not cause a loss in power due to rim size, rim weight, and tire weight. this mesures true wheel horsepower. that is why so many people are now swiching from the mustang dyno to the dnyo pack
"The Dynapack dynamometer is a technologically advanced apparatus that applies a variable but precise hydraulic load via a fixed coupling to the driven wheels of a motor vehicle to simulate road conditions in the workshop.

Its unique hydraulic operation allows it to quickly and accurately measure engine and drive line performance with sensitivity capable of measuring headlights being turned on. The Dynapack is attached directly to the wheel hubs, thereby overcoming all the disadvantages of tyre distortion including noise, torque steer, loss of traction, tyre heat and variations in tyre design and wear. Direct coupling eliminates the need to estimate torque and enables the dynamometer to make very sensitive readings over a very wide range of engine speeds. With no tyre roller interface the results are more precise and are repeatable."

my dyno actuly has more torque and hp throughout the entire power band than my brothers ls with 404's and many other bolt ons.
 

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nice #s
 

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Yeah man, those #'s are definately awesome...how long have you been working on yer gsr?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
had the car for a year, ever since i bought the car i have been reading up on turbos. so the turbo took me about a year to plan and it took me 1 day to putit on, but i had some problems with things, so all in all it took about a month
 

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I think everythings beautiful man, but i have a question. How come you bought the ac compatible manifold, but opted to keep your AC? Did something go wrong w/ the AC and you just scrapped it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i got the ac compatable manifold because i still wanted the compressor side of the turbo facing the passenger side. that way it is easy to make an intake for it.
i took out ac a long time ago since it didn't work, but i wouldn't have been able to keep i regardless since i am using a 3 inch downpipe
 

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StyleTegGSR on Apr/15/04 said:
2 inch charge piping from compressor housing to intercooler
2.5 inch charge piping from intercooler to throttle body
I always thought it should be larger from Turbo->IC than IC->TB to compensate for pressure losses from the IC? Or am I mistaken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you never want to go from bigger to smaller. the smaller diameter piping from compressor to intercooler will get the air to the intercooelr as fast as it can, that way the velocity of the air will be higher getting through all of the intercooler quicker, more efficiantly, and with less lag
 

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StyleTegGSR on Apr/17/04 said:
you never want to go from bigger to smaller. the smaller diameter piping from compressor to intercooler will get the air to the intercooelr as fast as it can, that way the velocity of the air will be higher getting through all of the intercooler quicker, more efficiantly, and with less lag
NVM, i get it. Bottlenecks = Ghey. Thanks for clearing that up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
FILS on Apr/17/04 said:
nice numbers, i hope to achieve that w/ my LS.

-derek
an ls needs more boost to get the same power as a gsr. the gsr has higher compression and a more aggresive cam.

i need to get a camera to post my graphs, shouldn't be long
 
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