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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all

ive got a 95 gsr, with h/i/e

i was wondering if something like greddy emanage would be sufficient to tune obtain the most from my bolt on mods? at this point im probably not looking at doing much more due to no $$ but would i need a wide band o2 sensor or anything else to get the most out my setup with emanage if its good enough?
 

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I wouldn't waste my money on that at this point.... A gsr engine is efficient in stock form, so tuning these 3 bolt-ons at this point wouldn't yield much more power then the baseline run.

**EDIT** The money you spend on th e-manage and dyno time plus tuning charge, wouldn't be worth it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
really? so at what point up the modification ladder should you be looking to get a fuel/engine management system?
 

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for those the only tuning you need is to reset the ecu and we have an article for that. anything beyond a bolt on, tuning would help performance over the stock ecue
 

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This may sound stupid but have you reset your ecu after putting these mods in. It helps a little when your ecu is reset for the better exhaust flow and intake air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah i reset the ecu during seasonal changes as well.. i was speaking to someone on a local forum and he stated that to maximise the potential out of basic bolt on mods i should get some sort of tuning done, was he just trying to sell me snake oil?
 

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The computer eventually compensates on its own. So if it's been a while no need to reset.
correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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hpracing007 on Mar/20/04 said:
The computer eventually compensates on its own. So if it's been a while no need to reset.
correct me if I'm wrong.
yea...your right. It's just easier/faster to do it right after the mod to get the most performance from the start!

Quote: snowman95 on Mar/20/04 yeah i reset the ecu during seasonal changes as well.. i was speaking to someone on a local forum and he stated that to maximise the potential out of basic bolt on mods i should get some sort of tuning done, was he just trying to sell me snake oil?
yea he was full of it
 

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yes after a very short time i think around 100 miles the computer resets on its own, there is no need to reset for basic bolt ons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
snake oil - think bullsh*t to make a sale :)


yeah im very aware of the need to reset the ecu after mods have been done, just questioning additional management on top of thanks guys n gurls
 

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snowman95 on Mar/20/04 said:
Hey all

ive got a 95 gsr, with h/i/e
No hi-flow cat? I wouldn't even consider tuning unless the exhaust system is fully completed.

Anyway...Depending on your engine package, tuning may help a lot. For example, people using the full Hytech exhaust system experience very good gains in their powerband from dyno tuning (do a hytech dyno search for more details). It all depends on the specs of the parts you purchased and if they work correctly together as a system. What I'm trying to say is that if you leggo-block builded your car, you shouldn't even consider spending my money on tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry ill specify

2.5 inch 5zigen 4-2-1,
2.5 inch custom hi flow cat,
2.5 inch full Prof. vrs cs. cat back exhaust system and muffler

cypher industries dynamic breather intake and k&n pod filter
 

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Dyno tuning always help. I would if I were you, keep your engine running at it's peak.
edit: I don't know much about the dyno tuning process, don't you need something else too, like a fuel pressure regulator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well that was my core point of such, dyno/fuel tuning to my understanding is always good, its generally about the cost and the skill of the tuner, thats why i was asking about tuning for to get teh most out of my basic bolt ons - but as the guys previously said if the gains would be minute compared to the oem ecu adjusting itself i probably couldnt justify buying something like a greddy emanange and then paying for dyno time and someone to tune it properly for me
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
taken from the ozhonda forum discussion about headers


Joined: 30 Aug 2003
Posts: 110
Location: Sydney
Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 10:02 amPost subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

mpd076-chuck wrote:
you need a VAFC at the very least to make the most of any good header and preferably a fully tuneable ECU such as hondata/PowerFC etc.


Well said…
Though I’m no fan of the VAFC, on a MAP sensor'd engine management system, little is to be gained in fitting different intakes, headers & exhaust systems without a corresponding change in engine management.
Reason being the MAP sensor itself…
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure
Intakes, Headers & exhaust systems make little difference to the actual pressure seen by the MAP sensors. As such, little or no gains are actually realised until the fuel & timing are altered to suit… Hence the popularity of the “Prince of Darkness” in the Honda tuning world.. The evil VAFC…
This unit, though it can be made to work, isn’t quite as straightforward as some people would have you believe…
It only works well with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator where the fuel pressure is increased slightly & the whole rev range is trimmed back…
Furthermore, the ignition timing at the distributor aught be retarded slightly as these units add timing when fuel is removed…
Don’t fool yourself into thinking more fuel can be added, as absolute fuel control is not in the equation…
once the MAP sensor sees atmospheric pressure… That’s the most fuel you’re going to get… This generally occurs at WOT….
If you really must use a piggyback or interceptor…
Go for an E-manage every time of the Apex unit… Better still…
As mpd076-chuck said… Use a stand-alone, fully programmable engine management system such as Hondata or a Power FC…
Bare this in mind with all modifications that aim to increase power through increased volumetric efficiency… As your engine does not posses a mass airflow sensor so is unable to reap the full benefit of your components without appropriate engine management measures…
Hope this sheds a bit of light for some..
Cheers…

Point of note… The Uni-Chip is basically an Aussie VAFC as it works in exactly the same way… But rather than the end user being able to have a fiddle, it is left up to the dealer to tune…
_________________
TODA RACING Australia Pty Ltd
Official Australian and New Zealand Distributor



what do you think fellas?
 

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well, check this out. I have a 95 gsr swap with p72 ecu. I did a base line dyno with it stock. Everything was fine and where it should have been. I changed everything, even though im getting a new exhaust. My new mods after the dyno was short ram intake, 4-1 jdm headers w/2.5 collector, custom 2.5 inch exhaust with no cat. After those mods my car gained torque and hp all the way up to 6000 rpm. Thats when things got ill. After the 6000 rpm rich the ecu decided to make my a/f ratio super rich. Dont know why but maybe the increase in flow velocity was making the computer see more air which meant that it was time for the ecu to feed more fuel to compensate. End result? After 6000 rpm, where the fun really begins basically, the hp didnt barely rose and my torque started to actually decrease. The richness was owning me after 6000 rpm. So im getting a vafc 2 so that i can control the a/f mixture after 6000 rpm. While im at it, I'll prob change the vtec crossover point to correspond with the tuning for the most efficient hp and tq rating with the tuning. Vafc 2 is good for minor things but right now all i got the money for is that. After about a year im supercharging so I am going to have to sell it so I can deal with that system anyway. Hope this helps.
 

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My friend has a 99 civic si with aem cold air intake, greddy 4-2-1 header, high flow cat and thermal exhaust. He bought a vfac and had it tuned with just those mods done to it. Compared to the baseline run, he gained 7 hp at the wheels with the vfac tuned. I know all cars/ cases are different, but I think that if his civic (b-series motor) gained 7hp, why not an integra. Even if you did pay 200$ for the vfac and another 100$ on tuning/install, that would be 7hp (for my friend) for 300$. Not bad considering you would pay 500$ for an exhaust that gives you roughly 5-8hp or a header that costs 300$ and gives you 3-4hp. I'm not saying you will get the same gains, every application/scenerio is different.
 
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