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Discussion Starter #1
I have my intake cam set at +2 and my exaust cam set at -1. It seems when the intake cam is advanced there's some inconsistant hesitaion at idle. I also get check engine lights randomly at idle. The code is 45 "System too rich too lean" I tied leaning out and richening up, i can't figure it out.

My tuned set up:
99GSR
ITR AEM CAI
Skuk2 IM
RC 310cc injectors
AEM FPR aet at 58psi
Skunk2 stage 1 cams and cam gears
VAFC
JDM ITR header
exaust

PS i'll post my dyno chart next week
 

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adjust the Tb screw to get a better idle...

as for the code 45, can't suggest anything until I see your dyno and a/f meter

but have you checked the O2 sensor and connections (by the sensor and the shock tower going to the ECU)? No exhaust leaks right?

what's the VTEC switchover?

310's are bit big if you haven't tuned down the fuel pressure especially with stock CR. You should be leaning out the bejesus out of the VAFC fuel curves.58 psi FP (vacuum line off?) seems kinda high.

the 310's should be kicking up the upper rpm power...not the mid to low stuff so I would go 40 psi vacuum line off but this is a pure guesstimate before I see your plots....
 

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yeah it's hunting for the best fuel to add and the EVAP is working overtime. Have you backed down the FPR? I suspect you don't need 58 psi FP with 310 injectors.

remember the new flow rate for the injectors is calculated by the equation:

New Flow Rate = SQRT [New FP/ Old FP] x flow rate

If stock FP is 44 psi vacuum line off,

SQRT [58/44] x 310 cc/min = 1.148 x 310 = 356 cc/min

on stock CR you don't need that flow rate....tune it down. The bigger injector allows you to cut down the duty cycle and lean down for finer control with the VAFC.

The place to tune obviously is at the VTEC switchover up to 6500 rpm where you drop well below 12:1 AF ratio. Your car seems to like 12.8:1 AF. This is the basic Honda ECU manoever to protect the engine at the violent VTEC switchover point by richening the mix. I take it you used the method I suggested of determining the best VTEC switchover. Your second torque dip is after 6700 rpm...what does she do if you try richen up to get 12.8:1 AF at 6700 rpm? what does she do when you try to lean it out at 13.2:1 AF after 6700 rpm?

here's Jeff's Skunk2 stage I cams in a GSR and SMSP exhaust system:



Notice that his VTEC is 5000 rpm and he leaned out to as much as 14:1 on his setup just after VTEC. In the upper rpms, his package liked 13.2:1 AF...the torque curve is much flatter than yours after VTEC has hit...this is what you want your package to achieve.

What's your current cam gear settings?
 

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BTW 177 whp and 126 lb ft torque is pretty impressive for a a teg. I wouldn't be too disappointed with that. You are in the low 14's ballpark knocking on high 13's if you can get the right suspension and tires. you are another person who would benefit from a 2 layer head gasket...what is the stage 1 cam's intake valve ABDC closing spec?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, thanks for the info and questions. Before i start, get this one. I've been throwing the "code 45" most of the summer. I finally got sick of restting the ECU everyday and left the CE light on for a few days. I just washed my car and rotated the tires... turned the car on , and no check engine light! What the f**k? Don't you need to reset the ECU or use the "Honda code puller" from the dearship to remove check engine lights?

Any way, here's the set up: please read again

My tuned set up:
99GSR -OBD2-
ITR AEM CAI
Skuk2 IM
RC 310cc injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
AEM FPR set at 58psi
Skunk2 stage 1 cams
Skunk2 cam gears Intake +2, Exaust-1
VAFC "All Ne points leaned; some quite a bit"
JDM ITR header
Mugen exaust

I tried your method to find the best VTEC x-over point but, the low cam never tapered off HP all the way up to 7000rpms. I set the VTEC x-over at 5700 because there it doesen't suffer from a BIG dip in HP and i don't have to run 15:1 A/F to loose that dip. I Also tried to keep A/F ratios on the safe side.

I'm not disappointed with my numbers but i wish the torque curve was flat. I'm also stuck with Dyno operators that can't tune.


"BTW 177 whp and 126 lb ft torque is pretty impressive for a a teg. I wouldn't be too disappointed with that. You are in the low 14's ballpark knocking on high 13's if you can get the right suspension and tires." -Michael Delaney


Don't get my hopes up. LOL What do you think i'll run with my current set up:
H&R OE springs 1" drop
KYB AGX shocks 4 way adjustable set on 3 all round
Stock clutch 65K miles
Open Diff
16" Rota sub zeros
215-45-16 Falken Azenis

I'm sorry to say i dont' know the stage 1 cam's intake valve ABDC closing spec? I' email Skun2. Why do you want to know?
 

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ABDC closing spec can be plugged into the dynamic CR calculator to determine your dynamic CR to see if you would benefit from a thinner head gasket.

Switch to BF Goodrich drag radials on 14 in. civic steel rims (get them from the junkyard) and you will dramatically drop your times. Set the rear shocks to the stiffest settings on raceday. Use solid screw tight spacers (if they aren't the fastened type they'll pop out) if you have to in the rears.

if you didn't lose power until 7000 rpm, then why did you not set the VTEC at 6800 rpm? I don't get it...you set it for the best switch FOR YOUR ENGINE...My switchover is at 7000 rpm. (scratching my head as to why you chose 5700 rpm when your engine tells you otherwise...listen and respond to what YOUR engine tells you not what everyone else does...the tuning can move along and progress if you do).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I set VTEC x-over ar 5700 because it was the earliest switch over that did not loose HP.

PS what are solid screw tight spacers?
 

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here is a Penske racing coilover for a Suzuki GSXR1000 bike with a 1 in. spring spacer...if you put these on the rear springs they preload the springs giving you added stiffness so the car does not squat as much at launch...great for 60 ft times....they do the same thing as wheelie bars or stiffer rear springs ...if you don't get the screw down type, they will pop off on launch in some cases...They come in 1,2,and 3 in. spacer widths depending on how much spring preloading you need...They are less than $20 each...another racer's trick that I let out of the bag...you can thank me later...





here's one from Coleman Racing...


Some day I will ride on Penske Racing shocks when I grow up...



http://penskeshocks.com/
 

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or you can get a Pettitt drag launch kit....

from [email protected] said:
Due to the overwelming response to the Pettit Drag Launch kit Group buy I am posting the following Info for all the people who wish to know what the kit includes and what is involved in the installation. I hope this answers all of the questions I have been receiving. The benefits far outway work put into this installation.

The kit includes the following:

(2) Control rod arms with metal bushings that replace the stock ones that parallel the wheels

(2) Diff mounts (made out of a hard plastic)to replace the liquid filled ones

(4) Upper A-arm bushings (made out of hard plastic with metal inserts) to replace the rubber ones.

I have not used the 4 A-arm bushings yet because I am so pleased with the way the car is set up now. However after driving the car for a while now, I am considering installing those as well, but I love the car even more now.

I did not have the rear end clunk noise. I can only imagine that the noise would most likely be from the Diff mounts or the a arm mounts, because these are the only components with enough play to make noise if they were worne.

Installation:

The good news is that you dont have to remove the diff to do it. Just remove the exhaust, PPF, drive-shaft,and shields then the 2 main bolts that hold the diff. The diff will now swing down, (must remove the bolt that holds the e- brake cabls first). There are 4 bolts on top of the diff, remove them. the diff mount is now out. now for the fun part. You have to remove the liquid filled mounts. I destroyed mine, I heated the part with map gas to loosen the bushings (the rubber caught on fire) so then I just melted them out then used a screwdriver to remove a ring on the inside. once that is out you can use an all metal chisle to bang out the rest I found the 1/4 in. chisel from Sears worked best. once you have the stock liquid filled bushing out all you have to do is tap the plastic bushings in with a rubber mallet. Mine did not come with any directions so you can benefit from my hardship. The diff mounts come in two halves and bang in from either side (so each bushing is comprised of two pieces). They are two different thicknesses. The thicker ones go to the outsides of the diff hanger and the thin ones go to the inside. When I installed mine I didn't notice the diference. What a ***** it is to remove them once they are in, so learn from my mistake!!!! If you do not wish to ruin your liquid filled mount for fear you may not like the way the car is then, I suggest you buy a diff mount from the dealer & put the Pettit bushings in it and just switch the mounts (much easier). However, I do not know what that part costs. (knowing I know it sounds involved but it is very easy especialy if you follow my directions, (I wish I had these directions when I did it).

The control rod arms that parallel the wheels are very easy and straight forward to install so I will not bother taking up any more space to write about them.

Please note that I have a touring suspension, your results may be different on the R1 & R2 but my car feels like an R1 now. This mod has been the best thing I have done to my car and my car is heavily modified except the suspension. It is so different from what I was used to. Last year my 60' times at the track were like 2.6 because of the major wheel hop. most often I would have to let off for fear of breaking something, now watch out!!!! This wasn't the only difference though, the car is more nimble steering response is faster and the rear end follows very nicely. The car is very streatable, my car is not a trailer Queen, it is driven daily, In fact I am gonna go drive it right now!
 
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