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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a lot of people made the DIY trunk brace? I was thinking of makin one, cuz it seems so easy. But does it actually make the car handle better...that is, is there a noticeable difference when you drive with it?
 

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I made one, although honestly I couldn't tell a difference because I did it the day after I got my new swaybars. Doh! Although I'm sure it does something since the ITR comes with one stock. The only non-fuctional parts on the ITR are the stickers.
 

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u sure bout that sticker part??? MAN those stickers are this Shis.... I mean come on,, when u start seeing type R geo metros... THe stickers have to mean something...lol

Frank
 

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Honestly, I haven't felt a difference when I installed mine.

I did feel a difference when I drove a teg with the triangulated braces however.
 

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I find that interesting, especially with the slight bit of hatch rattle that can be common with Integras.

So why does Comptech make a lower and upper rear brace?

What about a rear lower brace?
 

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good info about the rear tower bar from the movie, but im also interested about the trunk brace, either way i will probably do it anyway for a little DIY BLING, lol.
 

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Ok that sounds good and all, but if there really is no use for all the bars in the rear then why does the type R come with them stock. I would trust Honda engineers over comptech ones anyday, I mean they arent just going to add un-neccesary weight back there with some placebo effect trunk/tower bars.
 

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Sean, where did you read that most harnesses use the rear strut bar ? Any harness, 4pt, 5pt, and even 6pt, should correspond with the use of a roll bar/cage. And when in fact that is the case, the harnesses are mounted to a bar directly behind the seat.

You don't want the harness stretched back 3-4 feet or so, because this will cause slack in the harness. If there is slack in it, it will not hold you firmly in place in the event of a collision.



I'll be the first to admit I rolled around with harnesses and racing seats without the use of a roll bar. I've lived, and learned. The lap belts were mounted to the floor on each side, and the should harnesses were crossed in an "X" behind the seat, and mounted at a 45 degree angle to the bolts that are under the front of the rear seat. I know now, that it was a big no-no, and should I have rolled the car, I could've been in some deep sh*t.

Anyways, do you see the point made about mounting a harness to the rear strut brace though ? Not a solid, practical, safe, or effective place to mount them

Here is a link to read up on lots of braces.Brace Information
 

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ScreaminTeg on Mar/26/04 said:
Sean, where did you read that most harnesses use the rear strut bar ? Any harness, 4pt, 5pt, and even 6pt, should correspond with the use of a roll bar/cage. And when in fact that is the case, the harnesses are mounted to a bar directly behind the seat.

You don't want the harness stretched back 3-4 feet or so, because this will cause slack in the harness. If there is slack in it, it will not hold you firmly in place in the event of a collision.



I'll be the first to admit I rolled around with harnesses and racing seats without the use of a roll bar. I've lived, and learned. The lap belts were mounted to the floor on each side, and the should harnesses were crossed in an "X" behind the seat, and mounted at a 45 degree angle to the bolts that are under the front of the rear seat. I know now, that it was a big no-no, and should I have rolled the car, I could've been in some deep sh*t.

Anyways, do you see the point made about mounting a harness to the rear strut brace though ? Not a solid, practical, safe, or effective place to mount them

Here is a link to read up on lots of braces.Brace Information
Ahh, I see now. Thanks a lot Dave for that info. Is there a specific name for the bar right behind the front seats used to mount a harness to when you don't have a full roll cage?
~Sean
 

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I'd have to look...I know there is a company that makes a harness bar that fits right behind the front seats, and mount in the lower seat belt holes on each side of the car. I'll see if I can find it.

Also, just thought I'd throw these pics up. The 1st on I believe is what the brace looks like in an ITR. The second, is a similar trunk brace. I think it closer resembles the placement of the Civic Type R brace.




 

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i don't know about gen3, but, i have a rear tie bar, and rear tower bar in my gen2. The lower tie does make a difference. The rear tower bar however, did not made as much difference comparning to the tie. BUT, the tower bar DOES REDUCED A LOTS of squeeking and chaiss twisting sound from the rear.
 

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did anyone use that USDM ITR type bar retrofitted on their GSR or LS? or was that an aftermarket?

fyi the jdm itr has a trunk brace linking the strut towers. go figure. but Comptech has built racing Acuras for a long time and has a lot of race engineering experience in IRL. So if they never saw a difference in their development work for the street cars with a trunk brace, so be it.

I think you can't extrapolate race car performance here because a trunk brace would be superfluous in a car with a full racing roll cage in terms of adding more chassis stiffness. I think Mike Bibinoff's comments regarding the usefulness of that brace were for road/street cars though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
in the article, it says that you have to remove those two bolts on the bottem of the trunk...what are those bolts for, like is it safe to remove them? And if i decide to take the brace out after its in, is it easy to just stick the bolts back in? Sorry if these are dumb questions....i just get worried when im trying out new things with my car.
 

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codenamezero on Mar/27/04 said:
i don't know about gen3, but, i have a rear tie bar, and rear tower bar in my gen2. The lower tie does make a difference. The rear tower bar however, did not made as much difference comparning to the tie. BUT, the tower bar DOES REDUCED A LOTS of squeeking and chaiss twisting sound from the rear.
This is good info (experience, not theory), and is reason enough for me to investigate rear braces. Anyone ever drive an old Porsche 914 with the roof off? It’s like driving a flexible flyer sled with wheels. Anyway, the reason I’m interested is because I really want to keep my GSR squeak free (if it's reducing squeaking, it's probably preventing a lot of minor flexing, which, over time, could cause the car to spontaneously combust, lol)
 

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mikey51 on Mar/26/04 said:
in the article, it says that you have to remove those two bolts on the bottem of the trunk...what are those bolts for, like is it safe to remove them? And if i decide to take the brace out after its in, is it easy to just stick the bolts back in?
You have to buy new, longer bolts when you make the bar. If you decide to take the bar off, you can just reuse the old bolts.
 
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