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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I just had my new clutch installed, and my type R flywheel. I expected that this would fix what we thought was a bad release bearing. Well, the release bearing was bad. No question about it. And the clutch friction disc was down to the rivets. However, the slight grind/chug noise didn't go away. My mechanic brought it to my attention that it is in all likelyhood the input shaft bearing.

Does anyone have any experience with this problem? I am doing the repair myself. Whether I have to drop the tranny and fix it, I am definitely not gonna pay the 700 dollars labour.

Can anyone enlighten me as to what exactly is involved? Do you think this could be the source of the noise?
 

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when exactly does it make the noise? clutch engaged / not engaged?
 

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interesting i have this same problem makes noise when you let off the gas and the car starts to decelerate chug noise yeah thats what id call it, in any case my remedy for this is to scrap the ls trans and get a jdm itr anybody selling one of these pm me.
 

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AUTOXER on Mar/25/04 said:
spend the $700 or get another tranny, do not attempt this yourself.
Whatever man, this is not a hard job, it's just time consuming.

Take a look at our clutch install article

once it's out, heres what you need to do:

Have a helm's manual in case you grab the wrong thing and pull 5th gear apart and need to put it back together.

Anyway, helms manual in hand:

1)Split the case using the directions in the helms

2)Take out the change piece/holder/reverse holder/idler gear & shaft

3)Grab the mainshaft and countershaft at the base, wiggle around while pulling it up, and rip the whole gear cluster out as once assembly.

4)Using a bearing puller + slide hammer (can be rented), pound the old bearing out, then pry the old oil seal out.

5)Using seal driver, drive new seal in, followed by using bearing driver to pound new bearing in.

6) Grab gear cluster (shafts, rods and all) as one assembly and put it back into the clutch housing.

7) Reassemble reverse/change piece/holder

8) apply liquid gasket, line up stopper ring, shift tranny into third (pull straight out on shift rod), wiggle casing back on, check to make sure mainshaft turns by hand, put the thing back together.

It's all in the helms really, just make sure you have 2 days mininum if you're doing it by youreself.
 

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Here's some tools you can rent from autozone that'll you'll need/make life easier:

1) Bearing puller (same as pilot bearing puller)
2) Slide hammer for bearing puller
3) Bearing race/seal driver (better than a hammer + block of wood)
4) lock ring pliers

The lock ring pliers arent 100% necceasry, but beat scissors for taking it of the countershaft.
 

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The biggest part of this job is dropping/replacing the transmission. The transmission isnt complicated inside and as long as you follow the directions, you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks br1t. I am picking up my ITR tranny this weekend, and then I will repair/sell my old one.

I'm gonna attempt the install myself.
 
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