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Again my Haynes manual makes this seem easy. It says to hold the tie-rod end with an open-end wrench and loosen the jam nut enough to mark the position of the tie-rod end in relation to the threads. Now where I am havin trouble is loosening tie-rod end jam nut. To me it seems like its stuck on there. Second of all I only have one open ended wrench that will even fit on this. Whats the size of the nut in mills? Do I have to use a standard open ended wrench?? Pullin it from the steering knuckle was cake. Its the other end

I spreayed PB blaster all over the inner tie rod end. Plz help I can't separate the two. Im a picture man. SO if possible plz help with some visualizations
 

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WHY are you loosening that part?!?!?!?!
this is to take off the knuckle right?

Leave it alone or else you have to adjust it later.

Remove the nut from the balljoint and use a gear puller to apply pressure to the bottom of the bolt until it pops loose

part number 14/16


Here's the visual of what you need to pull

the pink circle is the fork bolts so you can push down on the lower control arm once all the other ball joints are separated.

Your book should call for a special tool, I use a gear puller. it will take a slow tensioning, and that ***** will get tight..... then POW it will pop loose. all the ball joints have a tab or section for the jaws to hook to, and the bolts have a divot in them to hold the worm gear.


(yes I know that is not an integra.....)
 

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PS in that picture the castle nut is still on, make sure you remove it.
Also go to www.helminc.com and buy your helms manual. the Haynes book gives you just enough information to get you into trouble.

I suggest using it for home heating in the winter, or back up toilet paper in case you run out.
 

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i am confused as all hell on what you are trying to do... are you changing the innner/outter tie rods or are you changing the upper/lower ball joints? or am i missing something all together?
 

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he is pulling the knuckles. he has to remove the tie rods from the knuckle, but the Haynes tells him to do it som back-assed way.
 

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this is what i do all the time at work to solve that problem....get a big ****in hammer (BFH for short) and once you get your BFH take and beat the living **** out of the knuckle around the tie rod...it will pop out when you hit it hard enough. ASSUMING you can't get the proper tool, or just dont have time to fc*k around witht that tool, it works everytime....and then when you put it back together put your jack under the controll arm to put pressure on it, it will stop the ball joint from spinning in the ball socket. put the full wieght of the car on the LCA to hold that little bastard in there otherwise it will spin and it will never get tight
 

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GreyMetallicTeg on Oct/10/07 said:
this is what i do all the time at work to solve that problem....get a big ****in hammer (BFH for short) and once you get your BFH take and beat the living **** out of the knuckle around the tie rod...it will pop out when you hit it hard enough. it works everytime....and then when you put it back together put your jack under the controll arm to put pressure on it, it will stop the ball joint from spinning in the ball socket. put the full wieght of the car on the LCA to hold that little bastard in there otherwise it will spin and it will never get tight


Exactly what I do!
 

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BFH works, but he could mess up the treads on the balljoint too if he's not careful.
A gear puller is worth the 12 bucks.
 

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Or you can hit the tie rod on the steel arm where there is no thread upwards and the Ball joint at the eyelet it goes into with a BFH or a 5 lb. sledge is what I use and it works and changes axles in 20 min.
 
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