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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched and found a ton of good information ( a huge print-out on step by step for bad idles) but one answer i am unsure of

In testing the IAC when the engine is warm what should happen to the idle when

You cover the top hole in the intake and the IAC is good?

You cover the top hole in the intake and the IAC is bad?
 

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taken from the IACV, FITV, IDLE problems, and Timing adj Article:

Make sure your car is completely warmed up. With it running, take the intake off the TB. There are 2 holes right in front of the throttle plate, these are the holes that feed the IACV (top hole) and the FITV (bottom hole). With your finger, cover up the bottom hole (it should NOT be sucking if your car is warmed up). If the idle goes down the FITV is to blame, either get a new one or take it apart and screw the valve completely closed (I have only read of people doing this, so I don't know exactly how. Also, you will have to keep the engine speed up yourself when the car is cold).

Next cover both holes up with your fingers. The car should sputter and die (or almost die). If it does then the source of your crappy idle is the IACV. Replace it. If you want you can test the IACV. Shut the car off and put + battery voltage to the blk/yel terminal (on the valve) and momentarily touch ground to the blu/yel side. When doing this the valve should click, if it doesn't, replace it.

If, when covering both holes the car still has a high idle, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Again check the IM and TB nuts. You can spray carb cleaner around those areas and if any gets sucked in (the engine will rev) you have found your leak. Another source of vacuum leaks are where the FITV and IACV connect to the IM. Either replace the gaskets or use silicone gasket sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thats the article/ printout that I have. The car did shut off when i put my finger over the the hole for the IACV, but should it shut off if its working properly or malfunctioning? I also did the next test with manually working the valve by putting one terminal to 12v and the other to ground and it did click.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
everything from surging to rough low idle when cold and sometimes when warm, othertimes it'll idle a little high for a while then the CEL will light up and the idle will instantly drop, CELcode 43
 

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code 43 is fuel problem, it is not specific. fuel pump run every key on and such? if it does, maybe the filter is clogged.

i had the engine out of mine and it took about a year before I had the time to put a crank and rod in it and put it back together. idle was ok before, just knocked like crazy. Long story short, one years worth of stale fuel gave mine the stupid idle syndrome. ran a can of seafoam through it when i first got it back together, still did it.
I have put about 5k miles on it now and worked the stale junk off it i guess, because it works just fine, but if I for some reason have to unhook the battery it does it again for a few key cycles, i didn't think the old obd cars where smart enough to "learn", but maybe they are. If you got the click, the solenoid is working, i would take it apart and clean it and see what happens.

freaking embarrasing though when the po put a fart can muffler on it and everyone thinks your revving on them at stop lights isn't it. I would shut it off in the drive through, and turn on the a/c and lights and whatever I had to do to load it down and make the idle smooth out, but it works great now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually have a fuel pressure gauge right next to the filter, the pressure is good and well within specs. Part of me is thinking an air pocket in the coolant systems since the rate of the revs change when the car is on a slope. I'm sure i can get the surging squared away, but the occasional high idle that mysteriously drops when the CEL kicks on is over my head.
 

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See, I'm sure we're not the only people who have this problem...all electronics and hardware seem to be operating properly but we still get the weird surging idle. Mine only revs a little, 300-400rpms or so, so from 700-1000. If I stop at a light or drive-thru I pull leave it in 1st with my foot on the brake and let out the clutch enough to put a load on the motor, then it levels out and I can take my foot off the clutch. My idle adjustment screw is all the way in, some say having it out causes the surging...it's just really frustrating not being able to figure it out. I'm not having any luck getting an IACV for cheap, not to mention I have a '00 b16 in mine (will an IACV off any B series work?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it is frustrating, but im sure i'll get it figured out... eventually.... its just annoying as hell, especially since i do not have a muffler. I'm going to try to bleed the coolant system and go from there. I may pick up a few of these problem parts, MAP included from the local LKQ and recondition them and try them if I don't get any results. So far i have done pretty much everything I've found in the searches and write ups
 
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