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daheechang on Jan/22/06 said:
get a new ecu and jumper. obd 1 is a lot easier to mess around w/
well a new ecu and jumper doesn't solve my problem. I'm running an OBD1 and the whole reason i want to do this is specifically for datalogging with a wideband sensor..
 

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MichaelDelaney on Jan/22/06 said:
Quote: Neo on Jan/23/06In my opinon, it has a resonator type affect. It makes it less raspy,


how can it resonate when there is no chamber and holes to create the resonance?????

come on man...
I was just scratching my head wondering the same thing.

Please just get the hi-flow converter, alot of the articles here on test pipes show that there is really no bennefit of running a test pipe.
 

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b18GSRZ on Jan/22/06 said:
I had a test pipe on my 95 ls. It sounded like a fake vtec in the upper high rpm. Definetly get it. You get a good 5 hp on it.


Quote: SurferX on Jun/15/02 Take a look at this test of a 2.5" Carsound cat vs 2.5" test pipe on an Integra Type R.



Yeah where's all that test pipe power I've heard so much about?

My conclusion from this, test pipe =
 

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i'm content with the exhaust tone right now. It sounds strong a deep and i don't want to regret putting a test pipe if it damages something in the resonator... I know cheap exhausts are made of fiberglass and melt under a certain temperature... Does not have a cat lead to increasing temperture? and what do quality exhaust systems use for absorption in their resonators? (ie.spoon, mugen, hks,apexi, hytech, smsp) and what temperatures do they melt at?
 

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JayDeeMDC2 on Jan/22/06 said:
i'm content with the exhaust tone right now. It sounds strong a deep and i don't want to regret putting a test pipe if it damages something in the resonator... I know cheap exhausts are made of fiberglass and melt under a certain temperature... Does not have a cat lead to increasing temperture? and what do quality exhaust systems use for absorption in their resonators? (ie.spoon, mugen, hks,apexi, hytech, smsp) and what temperatures do they melt at?

actually... some of the more reputable brands still use fiberglass type dampening material. My spoon n1 has melted into a solid piece of fiberglass. When it was off the car i could shake it and you could hear the piece slide back and forth in the muffler. So its pretty much loud as hell. Some companies used a combination of steel wool type material and fiberglass. The steel material goes directly around the perforated piping and the fiberglass is outside of that. The steel helps to absorb more of the heat i suppose. I know The HKS dragger mufflers have fiberglass in them, i know a friend who had one and it blew out eventually, shooting black, blobs of fiberglass out the tail pipe.
 

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my main purpose for getting a test pipe isn't for performance... Here's my upgrades:

Comptech Ice Box, Comptech TIG headers, Comptech exhaust, Carsound OBDII cat, Hondata s300, P30, OBDII-->OBDI, FJO wideband...

As you can see i've already got a carsound cat, i really don't want to fork out another 150bucks for another cat or modify it. When smog time comes around i'll just throw it back on along with all the other OEM parts. I'm not concerned with making more HP out of a test pipe nor am i trying to make it any louder than it needs to be. A 2.25 test pipe will be a cheap solution without any custom work to my cat or my header to accomodate for my FJO wideband. But my main concern is what will it do to the absorption material in the muffler and resonator?
 

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silvertegGS on Jan/22/06 said:
Quote: JayDeeMDC2 on Jan/22/06i'm content with the exhaust tone right now. It sounds strong a deep and i don't want to regret putting a test pipe if it damages something in the resonator... I know cheap exhausts are made of fiberglass and melt under a certain temperature... Does not have a cat lead to increasing temperture? and what do quality exhaust systems use for absorption in their resonators? (ie.spoon, mugen, hks,apexi, hytech, smsp) and what temperatures do they melt at?


actually... some of the more reputable brands still use fiberglass type dampening material. My spoon n1 has melted into a solid piece of fiberglass. When it was off the car i could shake it and you could hear the piece slide back and forth in the muffler. So its pretty much loud as hell. Some companies used a combination of steel wool type material and fiberglass. The steel material goes directly around the perforated piping and the fiberglass is outside of that. The steel helps to absorb more of the heat i suppose. I know The HKS dragger mufflers have fiberglass in them, i know a friend who had one and it blew out eventually, shooting black, blobs of fiberglass out the tail pipe.
that's quite interesting... any chance of you knowing what comptech is made of?
 

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I have heard the comptech's are pretty loud although i don't know too many people who have them... well, nobody i know has one in fact. I would guess that comptech uses the steel/fiberglass method. There really isn't much else that can be used for sound dampening material. It all depends on if they use some form of fiberglass with a higher heat tolerance.

Oh and greddy by the way uses fiberglass and steel however their fiberglass is shaped in cubes. They claim that the extra surface area provided helps to dampen the sound better, which judging by the sound of a new greddy evo muffler, seems to work pretty well. But it will eventually start to melt at least a little bit.
 

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MichaelDelaney on Jan/23/06 said:
Quote: JayDeeMDC2 on Jan/23/06 my main purpose for getting a test pipe isn't for performance...


my main purpose for testpipes is to pollute...LOL
Word. Thanks for thinking about future generations and the planet's well-being.
 

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Test pipes make the car louder, and that's about it. They don't add any significant power (as shown in the graphs), and offer zero sound deadening.

There are, however, resonated test pipes which will offer some sort of sound deadening (they're basically very small resonators).
 

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TheGSRGuy on Jan/22/06 said:
Test pipes make the car louder, and that's about it. They don't add any significant power (as shown in the graphs), and offer zero sound deadening.

Would you say this standard goes for boosted cars? I'm on a stock cat with my RSR catback, and my tuner (Church) recommended that I kill the cat altogether. I'm going to buy a 2.36" test pipe in the near future for this little project.. It should free up some flow in doing this, I reckon.
 

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TheGSRGuy on Jan/22/06 said:
Quote: MichaelDelaney on Jan/23/06Quote: JayDeeMDC2 on Jan/23/06my main purpose for getting a test pipe isn't for performance...

my main purpose for testpipes is to pollute...LOL


Word. Thanks for thinking about future generations and the planet's well-being.


ya seriously i will always have a cat on my car (until i get a dedicated off road only track car) but as to a question about ehxuast temperatures without a catalytic converter. the temperature will actually go down without a converter because there is no chemical reactions (storing oxygen, burning hydrocarbons) i hope u do stick with a cat. there is no real reason to not have a high flow cat. same power and ur helping the smog problems that most people dont think are really there...
 

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I know track numbers aren't a 100% accurate way to depict performance gains, but I did get an opportunity to run my car with a carsound cat and a test pipe, and my ET's were pretty much identical. My trap speeds were also very similar (within 1mph) and my 60' times were consisten with both runs.

As far as sound is concerned, the exhaust note does get noticeably louder and "buzzier".

So, as far as the argument goes, i would say hi flow cat > test pipe.
 

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JayDeeMDC2 on Jan/22/06 said:
my main purpose for getting a test pipe isn't for performance... Here's my upgrades:

Comptech Ice Box, Comptech TIG headers, Comptech exhaust, Carsound OBDII cat, Hondata s300, P30, OBDII-->OBDI, FJO wideband...

As you can see i've already got a carsound cat, i really don't want to fork out another 150bucks for another cat or modify it. When smog time comes around i'll just throw it back on along with all the other OEM parts. I'm not concerned with making more HP out of a test pipe nor am i trying to make it any louder than it needs to be. A 2.25 test pipe will be a cheap solution without any custom work to my cat or my header to accomodate for my FJO wideband. But my main concern is what will it do to the absorption material in the muffler and resonator?

Dude, just pay a few bucks to have a bung welded in front of the cat. If you're worried about smog already, better just get the bung.
 

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Save yourself the trouble, I had a testpipe on my setup for awhile and it was horrible, it will deafen you to say the least. Its not worth the extra pollution it causes either, and you will smell your exhaust at every traffic light. I now have a carsound cat which I love.
 
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