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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*********READ ******************

Before you even THINK about creating a new
post dealing with Fuel Cutoff or Hood Relocation,
you better have spent the 10 mins to fully read
this topic which contains every scenario and every
variation of fuel cutoff in a G3

If you do not read this topic and post, you are
doing nothing but wasting everyone's time, yours
included... this topic is almost 13.5 years in the making
and i assure you that this topic is a complete resource


and please realize that this topic is about cheap and easy and
fast ways to protect your car (hence the "90 mins") thing. People
posting about alarms and GPS tracking and all that are not
getting the basic underlying point of this topic

********* Help within this topic ************

- vitamin_d's Hood Relo article

- Picture of the fuel pump power wire path

- Remote-Start/Turbo-Timer with fuel cutoff (w/ Updated Diagram)

- Turning off the fuel pump at the ECU instead

- Pics of before and after hood relocation

- Layers of security to slow down a thief

- Making a metal plate to protect the actual hood latch

- Using a relay because you got a switch that is too low an amperage rating



********* Other topics on this site ******

- Some common sense things to think about to avoid unwanted attention

- DIY: Main Relay Kill Switch G3

- Using a lock to stop steering wheel from turning

***********************************


Hey everyone.. seeing an increase of "looking to protect my car", not only on this site, but 2 others i visit....

with this trend i see.. i recommend, no urge, you to set aside some time and take two huge improvements to help protect your Integra....

Total cost:
- $2.50 for a small 2 position switch at Radio Shack
- $1.99 in wire

what do you get for $4.49 and 90 mins of your time? you'll get a car that:
1) Cannot have the hood opened from the outside of the car
2) Cannot move anywhere except by tow truck because the engine gets no gas

To pull off #1, follow Vitaman_D's Hood Cable Relocation article, i cannot stress enough how much a big deal this is..... the only design i have seen worse than this is in our cousins, the Civic (which is even easier to open from the outside)... this takes no money whatsoever, just a little bit of your time.. speaking from experience of having my teg stolen at one point, i can tell you that this is step #1 the thieves took to make my car ready to drive away w/o the keys

For #2, do a Fuel Cutoff setup.. while this one is a little harder to pull off.. if you can make 4 connections (preferably by solder), then you can make this huge step towards protecting your car.... there is no real step by step article on this as whoever writes it wouldn't want to give away where this switch/connection is... but i can provide a few tips:

- There is a Yellow/Green-Stripe wire running from the fuel pump (under the rear seat) all the way down to the driver kick panel area... here's the path of the wire... If you are in the kick panel or door sill, there could be two Yellow/Green wires, the THICKER of the two is the one you are after. And I cannot validate this, but later in this topic someone says that in a G2 its Yellow/Black

- Intercept/cut this wire anywhere along that line, using a voltmeter to confirm when the key is "ON", it'll show 12v, key "OFF" or "ACC", this wire shows 0v (MAKE SURE that you have the radio off, as the power antenna wire is also Yellow/Green, this is the 2nd door sill located Yellow/Green wire mentioned above)

- Extend each side of the cut to a switch location that is out-of-the-way/out-of-sight, yet easily and everyday-use accessible. I'll be honest in saying the switch location shown first in the link above is a bad location as the thief will easily find it

- Make sure the wiring is away from sharp metal, pieces that move, etc... if it is, protect/secure it so they won't be a problem

- Switch off: no fuel pump power, Switch on: fuel pump works as designed

- PLEASE NOTE: Make sure you purchase a switch that can handle 10 amps of current!! Anything less will lead to failure of it resulting in: no fuel because the pump can't turn on


Amazing what less than $5 can do for you...... if the work seems intimidating, make a day of it with some fellow TI people and help each other out doing the cars for everyone...... you'll all learn something and also have a better protected car

Good luck.. need any questions answered about the above.. post right here... but please, read first
 

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I have been puting this off for too long. I plan on getting this stuff done this week. And I recommend everyone else to do this also. I worry too much about my car being stolen/messed with whenever I go out. At least this gives you a sense of security when your not inside your teg.
 

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I'm just not seeing it. How does that make it harder to open the hood? How do thiefs do it in the first place? If they get inside the car they can still pull the hood switch right? Somebody hip me to this stuff would ya please?
 

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GS90 on Jun/03/03 said:
I'm just not seeing it. How does that make it harder to open the hood? How do thiefs do it in the first place? If they get inside the car they can still pull the hood switch right? Somebody hip me to this stuff would ya please?
A thief doesn't have to get inside the car to open the hood. The hood cable is accessible from the outside of the vehicle, making it easy for a thief to simply pop the cable. Rerouting the cable will make it harder to open from the outside.
 

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I did the relocating hood cable mod today and it all went great!! Now I feel a little bit more secure about my car.. To everyone who hasnt done it, DO IT!.. its very easy. took me about 20-30 mins. Now the next step is the fuel kill switch. I am kinda scared? to do this mod? I am scared of messing something up.. plus I am not good at soldering =/
 

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If a thief wants to break into your car, they can break the window or jimmy the door and get in. If you have an alarm it will be going off now. They then pull the hood lever and disconnect the battery and the alarm stops. This is risky as the alarm is going off for a few seconds.

What they may prefer to do is disconnect the alarm and then break into the car. They achieve this by ripping off the fender lining, grabbing the hood cable, opening the hood and disconnecting the battery. Now your alarm won't go off and they have all the time in the world to break into your car.
 

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I did both things yesterday, and everything went great!!
The "hood cable relocation" was easy. And the "fuel
cut-off switch went rather well too. And, it took me around 90 minutes also. Its amazing how only 90 minutes of my time can help keep a robber from taking my vehicle. If you haven't done these things already, DO THEM!!!!!!

peace
 

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i still say shaving your door handles and disconneting your power locks is safer
 

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Discussion Starter #11
in what way do you believe that will:
1) stop someone from getting into your engine bay without ever getting in your car
2) stop someone from slim-jimming their way into your car

When they stole my car, they never messed with the door key entry, i can tell they just slimmed it

and besides.. shaving your door handles is a at least 10 times more than $4.49 in parts and 90 mins now, isnt it
 

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I have been putting this off for way to long, First nice weekend im doing the hood re-location because thats what they TRIED to do as well to my car back in march. Fuel cut-off im gonna need some help with. Take his advice and do it guys.
 

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If the fuel is cutoff, then no you wont be able to use it. If you leave it on, you can start it. But that defeats the purpose of the cutoff.lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fuel Cutoff switch oN = no gas to car

so whether your car is running by key or other (remote start, turbo timer, hotwiring, etc), the car gets no gas.. hence it wont run

if you want to get around that with the remote-starter/turbo-timer, you'll need to use the "status" output (its a blue/white wire on DEI remote starts if i remember right, its just a ground signal that is active while the device is in use) to activate a relay that goes around the switch.... like so:

SPST Relay
- Pin 86 and 87: Power feed side of the fuel pump wire
- Pin 30: Fuel Pump side of the wire
- Pin 85: said "Status" output of starter (basically its a wire that is showing ground while the remote starter is activated)

You'd wire the cutoff switch like:
- one side of the switch to Pin 87a
- the other side sliced in at pin 87

that should:
- Allow the pump to get power normally if the cutoff switch is "on" (power flows from pin 87, through the switch, to 87a, to Pin 30, and out to the fuel pump)
- Disable power if the switch is off (power flow gets stopped between pins 87 and 87a, so the pump sees no power)
- Regardless of switch position, grounding the status wire going into pin 87a will allow power to flow from 87 to 30 and out to the pump

wow, thats complicated, lol.. but its definitely doable

 

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My theory is that it's best to throw as many surprises at them as possible. Alarms, Clubs, Autolocks, and starter kills seem to be pretty common now, so I wouldn't be surprised if they expect that and know how to defeat those. I even know a guy who was using an Autolock, but that didn't keep his Civic Si from being stolen. He also had a good alarm, which mysteriously stopped working abut 2 days before they took his car. I think it may have had a factory immobliser and/or anti-theft system too.

But having many new suprises will waste their time, they may not know why their trick isn't working or how to get around what you've done, and again it wastes their time. The more time they spend, the higher the chances are that someone's going to see them or that they'll give up on your car (but don't be surprised if they come back later for another attempt).

I do know for a fact that disabling the power unlock switches can be useful. They used that trick to get into Boarder2's GS-R when it was stolen, and they forgot their tool (a specially bent coat hanger) in his car when they dumped it, so I know that's how they got in. They were obviously professionals, and it looks very much like it was the people who stole b18cya's car just Sunday night. I'm not saying they don't have other tricks, but this is how they've been getting into cars around here.

The simple and free solution is to just cut the power unlock wire at the switch. That way you still have power locking (just manual unlocking when inside), it doesn't interfere with your keyless entry, it doesn't look ghetto, and theives will waste their time trying to unlock the car that way.

Or, if you want to be clever and have fully functional power locks, you can use two relays to disable the unlock wires only when the alarm is armed (or by a manual switch, if you want). But that's the more complicated solution and it isn't for people who aren't familiar with wiring and relays.
 

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the other day i woke up to find a bent up clothes hanger on side of my car, and a few scratches on the hood. tommorrow i will do both of these things now that i finally realize it COULD happen to me. nomatter where you live or who you are it could happen to you, there has never been a car stolen in my town that i know of, it was very surprising that someone would try and break into my car in my own front yard, but it happened.
 

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i had this in the linked post, but deleted it and put it here since more people are looking at it....

let's say i splice into the wire at the fuel pump and put a toggle switch in a secret but sorta close location in the car, what gauge wire would i want to use and toggle switch? would this draw too much current or is this a safe setup? i don't know much about wiring, but i do know how to splice and cut, i may be able to get a solder too, any recommendations for install? pm me or email me if you have anything secret or really good to tell me or suggest, thanks, i want to do this sat night or sunday. I will eventually get an alarm as well, but i do not want remote start.
 
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