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31,147 Posts
*********READ ******************
Before you even THINK about creating a new
post dealing with Fuel Cutoff or Hood Relocation,
you better have spent the 10 mins to fully read
this topic which contains every scenario and every
variation of fuel cutoff in a G3
If you do not read this topic and post, you are
doing nothing but wasting everyone's time, yours
included... this topic is almost 13.5 years in the making
and i assure you that this topic is a complete resource
and please realize that this topic is about cheap and easy and
fast ways to protect your car (hence the "90 mins") thing. People
posting about alarms and GPS tracking and all that are not
getting the basic underlying point of this topic
********* Help within this topic ************
- vitamin_d's Hood Relo article
- Picture of the fuel pump power wire path
- Remote-Start/Turbo-Timer with fuel cutoff (w/ Updated Diagram)
- Turning off the fuel pump at the ECU instead
- Pics of before and after hood relocation
- Layers of security to slow down a thief
- Making a metal plate to protect the actual hood latch
- Using a relay because you got a switch that is too low an amperage rating
********* Other topics on this site ******
- Some common sense things to think about to avoid unwanted attention
- DIY: Main Relay Kill Switch G3
- Using a lock to stop steering wheel from turning
***********************************
Hey everyone.. seeing an increase of "looking to protect my car", not only on this site, but 2 others i visit....
with this trend i see.. i recommend, no urge, you to set aside some time and take two huge improvements to help protect your Integra....
Total cost:
- $2.50 for a small 2 position switch at Radio Shack
- $1.99 in wire
what do you get for $4.49 and 90 mins of your time? you'll get a car that:
1) Cannot have the hood opened from the outside of the car
2) Cannot move anywhere except by tow truck because the engine gets no gas
To pull off #1, follow Vitaman_D's Hood Cable Relocation article, i cannot stress enough how much a big deal this is..... the only design i have seen worse than this is in our cousins, the Civic (which is even easier to open from the outside)... this takes no money whatsoever, just a little bit of your time.. speaking from experience of having my teg stolen at one point, i can tell you that this is step #1 the thieves took to make my car ready to drive away w/o the keys
For #2, do a Fuel Cutoff setup.. while this one is a little harder to pull off.. if you can make 4 connections (preferably by solder), then you can make this huge step towards protecting your car.... there is no real step by step article on this as whoever writes it wouldn't want to give away where this switch/connection is... but i can provide a few tips:
- There is a Yellow/Green-Stripe wire running from the fuel pump (under the rear seat) all the way down to the driver kick panel area... here's the path of the wire... If you are in the kick panel or door sill, there could be two Yellow/Green wires, the THICKER of the two is the one you are after. And I cannot validate this, but later in this topic someone says that in a G2 its Yellow/Black
- Intercept/cut this wire anywhere along that line, using a voltmeter to confirm when the key is "ON", it'll show 12v, key "OFF" or "ACC", this wire shows 0v (MAKE SURE that you have the radio off, as the power antenna wire is also Yellow/Green, this is the 2nd door sill located Yellow/Green wire mentioned above)
- Extend each side of the cut to a switch location that is out-of-the-way/out-of-sight, yet easily and everyday-use accessible. I'll be honest in saying the switch location shown first in the link above is a bad location as the thief will easily find it
- Make sure the wiring is away from sharp metal, pieces that move, etc... if it is, protect/secure it so they won't be a problem
- Switch off: no fuel pump power, Switch on: fuel pump works as designed
- PLEASE NOTE: Make sure you purchase a switch that can handle 10 amps of current!! Anything less will lead to failure of it resulting in: no fuel because the pump can't turn on
Amazing what less than $5 can do for you...... if the work seems intimidating, make a day of it with some fellow TI people and help each other out doing the cars for everyone...... you'll all learn something and also have a better protected car
Good luck.. need any questions answered about the above.. post right here... but please, read first
Before you even THINK about creating a new
post dealing with Fuel Cutoff or Hood Relocation,
you better have spent the 10 mins to fully read
this topic which contains every scenario and every
variation of fuel cutoff in a G3
If you do not read this topic and post, you are
doing nothing but wasting everyone's time, yours
included... this topic is almost 13.5 years in the making
and i assure you that this topic is a complete resource
and please realize that this topic is about cheap and easy and
fast ways to protect your car (hence the "90 mins") thing. People
posting about alarms and GPS tracking and all that are not
getting the basic underlying point of this topic
********* Help within this topic ************
- vitamin_d's Hood Relo article
- Picture of the fuel pump power wire path
- Remote-Start/Turbo-Timer with fuel cutoff (w/ Updated Diagram)
- Turning off the fuel pump at the ECU instead
- Pics of before and after hood relocation
- Layers of security to slow down a thief
- Making a metal plate to protect the actual hood latch
- Using a relay because you got a switch that is too low an amperage rating
********* Other topics on this site ******
- Some common sense things to think about to avoid unwanted attention
- DIY: Main Relay Kill Switch G3
- Using a lock to stop steering wheel from turning
***********************************
Hey everyone.. seeing an increase of "looking to protect my car", not only on this site, but 2 others i visit....
with this trend i see.. i recommend, no urge, you to set aside some time and take two huge improvements to help protect your Integra....
Total cost:
- $2.50 for a small 2 position switch at Radio Shack
- $1.99 in wire
what do you get for $4.49 and 90 mins of your time? you'll get a car that:
1) Cannot have the hood opened from the outside of the car
2) Cannot move anywhere except by tow truck because the engine gets no gas
To pull off #1, follow Vitaman_D's Hood Cable Relocation article, i cannot stress enough how much a big deal this is..... the only design i have seen worse than this is in our cousins, the Civic (which is even easier to open from the outside)... this takes no money whatsoever, just a little bit of your time.. speaking from experience of having my teg stolen at one point, i can tell you that this is step #1 the thieves took to make my car ready to drive away w/o the keys
For #2, do a Fuel Cutoff setup.. while this one is a little harder to pull off.. if you can make 4 connections (preferably by solder), then you can make this huge step towards protecting your car.... there is no real step by step article on this as whoever writes it wouldn't want to give away where this switch/connection is... but i can provide a few tips:
- There is a Yellow/Green-Stripe wire running from the fuel pump (under the rear seat) all the way down to the driver kick panel area... here's the path of the wire... If you are in the kick panel or door sill, there could be two Yellow/Green wires, the THICKER of the two is the one you are after. And I cannot validate this, but later in this topic someone says that in a G2 its Yellow/Black
- Intercept/cut this wire anywhere along that line, using a voltmeter to confirm when the key is "ON", it'll show 12v, key "OFF" or "ACC", this wire shows 0v (MAKE SURE that you have the radio off, as the power antenna wire is also Yellow/Green, this is the 2nd door sill located Yellow/Green wire mentioned above)
- Extend each side of the cut to a switch location that is out-of-the-way/out-of-sight, yet easily and everyday-use accessible. I'll be honest in saying the switch location shown first in the link above is a bad location as the thief will easily find it
- Make sure the wiring is away from sharp metal, pieces that move, etc... if it is, protect/secure it so they won't be a problem
- Switch off: no fuel pump power, Switch on: fuel pump works as designed
- PLEASE NOTE: Make sure you purchase a switch that can handle 10 amps of current!! Anything less will lead to failure of it resulting in: no fuel because the pump can't turn on
Amazing what less than $5 can do for you...... if the work seems intimidating, make a day of it with some fellow TI people and help each other out doing the cars for everyone...... you'll all learn something and also have a better protected car
Good luck.. need any questions answered about the above.. post right here... but please, read first