[meatmarket]

well i activated my vtec today manually (wired solenoid to battery) and it ran superb until about a mile from my house (which in turn is 50 miles from the shop) and all of the sudden...blaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah
now the car barely idles, and revs to barely four grand, i dunno if my timing jumped ot if i fried the ecu (ls obd-0) but now i am stuck, i dunno what i am going to do next, but there is also a strange squeeking noise too,
this swap is trying my patience hardcore, plus it was raining out so i may have soaked some thing....this sucks
holla

 

[Dustimus]

:werd:

 

[Hakamoto]

Please tell me that you didn't just wire up the vtec solenoid directly to your car batter?

:werd:

What is the point of your post?

 

[Sqad_7]

if it only goes to 4000 then you shouldl check the knock sensor, that happen to me during my swap

 

[ScreaminTeg]

yeah...what exactly do you mean you connected your VTEC manually to the battery ? That just sounds like disaster

 

[br1t1shguy]

well i activated my vtec today manually (wired solenoid to battery) and it ran superb until about a mile from my house (which in turn is 50 miles from the shop) and all of the sudden...blaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah
now the car barely idles, and revs to barely four grand, i dunno if my timing jumped ot if i fried the ecu (ls obd-0) but now i am stuck, i dunno what i am going to do next, but there is also a strange squeeking noise too,
this swap is trying my patience hardcore, plus it was raining out so i may have soaked some thing....this sucks
holla

For the record... you physiclly connected the solenoid directly to 12 volts, thus opening the VTEC solenoid continously, regardless of RPM, gear, temperature, or oil pressure?

 

[meatmarket]

yeah i did wire it for a 20 minute test session, and yeah it is prolly the knock sensor it was a bonehead thing to do, and yes i am an idiot for dong it, but f**k me it ran good, lol

 

[ScreaminTeg]

well atleast you are laughing about it...cuz no one else here thinks it funny

And as a side note...if you don't care..then neither do i....cuz it wasn't my money that was wasted on the swap. Sorry bout your luck bro.

 

[meatmarket]

hey man money is prinited everyday, and mistakes are made to be learned from, and if i did trash my top end, great time for ss valves and an ls bottom end, but i never revved it past 6500, and it is making no valve noise, just idle like crap, and sounding sick, when it comes to money, i am fine, its time i have not enough of

 

[ScreaminTeg]

No prob. dude. Sorry if my post offended you...but what is the point of this thread anyways ? Are you asking for our help ?

And i'm glad that you have all the money you ever need. I'm envious because I work hard and don't seem to make enough. I'd be glad to lend some helping knowledge on here...that's why I'm here. But so far this thread is just about you hooking up your VTEC directly to 12v...that's it.

so "holla" if you need some help.

 

[Teggyman]

this thread is gay...

 

[Lapok25]

QUOTE]Originally posted by Teggyman on Feb/05/04this thread is gay...

[/QUOTE]and as for this post being gay...stfu and flog your no vtec having rs....holla


[/QUOTE]
This will be lock or clean. Mod please.

 

[meatmarket]

i may need help, all of my info is at the shop, is the knock sensor near the vtec solenoid or is it on the back of the block?

 

[Hakamoto]

No need to lock it, some of our members need to learn to be a little more mature but that's no reason to shut the thread down. We do have guidelines for a reason here guys, this doesn't apply to the thread starter, I'm talking about the other two idiots in this thread, you know who you are. Well the only down side I can see to what you did was, 1)you probably fried the vtec solenoid, 2) vtec is activated at certain rpms so that it has the oil pressure to lock up the rocker arms, but it didn't since you activated vtec permanently. Other than that I wish I could offer you more help, but I'm not sure how the ecu reacts when vtec is engaged.

 

[Sqad_7]

The knock sensor is on the back of the block

 

[meatmarket]

the solenoid still works but i may have fried the knock sensor, i am clueless and 50 miles from my shop...this sucks ass

 

[meatmarket]

and if u fry the knock sensor it runs like sh*t?

 

[Teggyman]

QUOTE]Originally posted by Teggyman on Feb/05/04this thread is gay...

and as for this post being gay...stfu and flog your no vtec having rs....holla


This will be lock or clean. Mod please.
[/quote] "So basically stupid people make me anti-vtec". Quote taken from Ross who ran a 14.7 with his RS. He only had I/H/T/E Holla fool... Feel proud your Vtec overtakes your lack of skill... Heh.

 

[DaBoyNBlu]

if you're lucky, you're just in limp-home mode, assuming it should have never actually went into vtec until proper oil pressure was established because there is a redundant oil pressure switch in the vtec system. once the ecu figures out it can't control the solenoid, it would have gone into limp home mode (hopefully)

either way, it was a really dumb idea to allow the possibility for a car to operate under ~2500-3000 rpm with vtec engaged, as vtec causes an oil pressure drop.

worst case, might have spun a bearing. it's strange for it to "squeak", as they'll usually knock or rattle. or starved the valve train for oil.

 

[sirgvtec]

Im not trying to sound stupid or be an a$$ but are you saying you were running the ls ecu , and wired the vtec opened for a test run ? I would think that this would run the engine waay to lean considering the VTEC ecu richens the mix to compensate for the need for extra fuel , so it seems to me you may have burned something internaly ..Correct me if im wrong ..im just trying to figure this out .