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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi fellow ti,
i've been really debating over and over whether or not i really need to spend $1200-2400 for a standalone including dyno tuning when i'm only gonna be pushing 7psi on a straight T3 internal wastegate setup? as far as fueling, i have 370cc RC injectors, vortech FMU, walboro inline fuel pump, fuel rail, B&M fuel pressure regulator and an Apexi-SAFC...i'm not going for crazy horsepower but just wondering if what i've got will be fine for just daily driving or running at the track every now and then...i've read all the threads about the standalones from the hondata, aem ems, and such but wasn't too sure if for the ppl running only 7 psi really need a standalone unit or not since we're not pushing the car as hard...any advice or info would be much appreciated! thanks!
 

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Here's what I have:

-DSM 450cc injectors
-Walbro 255 lr/hr fuel pump (in tank)
-VAFC (used on a non-VTEC to get twice as many adjustment points; leaned out to around -38%, then fine tuned)
-Stock fuel rail, stock fuel presure regulator, etc

It's simple, cheap, and works great. I'm running 7 psi and the dyno shop was easily able to tune it to give me a really consistent A/F around 12.5:1 on their wideband.

I had to explain to them that I am intentionally not using check valves (aka missing link), fmu, or other crap. They didn't seem to think that it would work, but I told them to try to tune it anyway. Well, they found that they could quickly and precisely tune it with the way that I had it setup, which of course was no surprise to me.


There are certainly many more advanced fuel management systems out there, but the VAFC gives me a really consistent A/F and no problems, so I see no need to pay more for something that has extra features that I wont use. The only thing I would like is programmable control over the ignition timing, but I'm sure I can find a good independant controller for that. For the mean time, I retarded the base timing to 14 degrees, and no problems with 91 octane at 5000 feet elevation.

Since I went turbo, I have run it on a road course four times, done a few autocrosses, and beat the crap out of it every day for months, but it's still running strong.
 

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the only standalone i can think of that can do mroe than an e-manage is the aem ems. this is only becuase it is fully programable to work with other sensors. all the other standalones use factory sensors. such as the power fc, hondata, uberdata. the only thing those can do that the e-manage can not is rasie the rev limiter. also the e-manage is about 1/3 the price as all standalones. for some reason people think that they have to go standalone if they want big power for some reason.



weston, since you are not running a missing link your ecu is seeing boost, meaning your car would be running limp mode unless you used one. Just so you know. also the v-afc can only be ajusted in 500rpm increments, same as the s-afc. the vafc only has 4 more points to allow for the b16, b18c1/c5 that could be reving to 9 grand. there is no real advantage to the vafc to safc on a non vtec motor.
 

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Its really your call. I'm only running 6psi, but have a standalone. I learned that doing it the best way is going to give me less trouble in the long run. I didn't want to end up buying a new FPR, FMU, etc. So by geting the standalone, I eliminate all those geeky devices and just use the standalone to control everything.

If the cost of having a standalone is whats holding you back, then don't get it. Use what you can right noe. If you can get your setup tuned on the dyno as well as Weston did with his, then you saved yourself a bunch of money.

Its you call, you decide what you need and what can get you there within your budget. You have to start somewhere.
 

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i suggest the cheapest hondata s100 with boost option as opposed to e-manage

i know e-manage can do the same-- im just weary that all the bugs havent been discovered yet-- hondata is well known and is a TRUE stand alone where the emanage is nore like a piggy back still
 

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95gsrturbo on Feb/17/04 said:
i suggest the cheapest hondata s100 with boost option as opposed to e-manage

i know e-manage can do the same-- im just weary that all the bugs havent been discovered yet-- hondata is well known and is a TRUE stand alone where the emanage is nore like a piggy back still
what bugs would those be?
anyway the e-manage can do more than the s100.
i am not saying standalones are not good, because they are. but people say piggy backs suck, when there are some than can do the same as almost all standalones
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the input...so i take it that even @ 7psi only, it's better to get a standalone than the components i have now right? say i don't get the standalone, will i be fine with just what i have? i guess that's the question i really need to know...thanks!
 

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If you can get your car running well with that setup on the dyno and that satisfies you, then its good enough.
 

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hi, i plan on running a custom t3 turbo setup at 7psi, with fmu, stock injectors, stock internals, fpr etc. basically everything stock. I will be using the v-afc , im just looking for something reliable, and fun to drive. Will i be fine with this current setup? from this thread i see that i dont have to have a standalone. I havent got everything yet but on the most part, im looking for input on what would better suite this setup. Thanks and sorry for the thread jack.
 

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You don't have to have a standalone. But I would recommend one. The Hondata system isn't even that much at all, like hardly twice the cost of a VAFC, and that's with the boost option. The VAFC doesn't really even change your fuel map, it just manipulates the stock one. For turbo, I have to say that having a custom map will help your engine run easier and more reliably.

I have to disagree and recommend that you get a standalone like Hondata. It will be better in the long run. You're only looking at around $400 give or take for Hondata, plus you have the added benefit of getting someone that not only knows turbos, but turbocharged Hondas AND that knows the computer inside and out. I find that people that are very familiar with both the tuning system and the car that is being tuned give better results for less dyno time, ultimately giving you better performance and reliablility for less money.
 
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