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Discussion Starter #1
i'm getting ready to put a new clutch and flywheel in my 00' GSR the flywheel is 8.5 pounds and is a clutchmasters..now the problem..i'm trying to fiugre out if i should get a stage 2 or stage 3 clutchmaster clutch, cause i'm putting in a supercharger in october with 8lbs of boost..the guy thats going to do it says to get a stage 3, but i don't think i need that much clamping force, and i want the pedal pressure to remain close to stock, cause this is a daily driver..so i guess i asking, is there a better clucth out there that i haven't heard of, or should i keep the stock clutch till i supercharge, stage 2 or 3? also, i'm getting the flywheel and clutch put in on sept.5. ( whenever i make up my mind about the clutch) so i don't want to drive around with all that clamping pressure when i'm running just a few mods..
 

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I suggest you get the CM stage 3...a little heavier pedal but it will handle the sc's monster torque when you abuse her much better and last longer.

you have to remember that the CM packages include a disc with springs and not pucks. Sprung discs tend to have less pedal effort. Their downside is that they can pop off under loading.

So the fact that you went to a CM package will mean that the pedal effort won't skyrocket to the point that your left thigh is larger than the right thigh...but to expect stock pedal effort in an aftermarket clutch upgrade meant for serious increases in torque is being a bit unrealistic.

You should really drive a friend's car which has a puck disc. It's stiff and abrupt. It's a pure racing clutch. The clutch is an on/off switch. You lift a hair off the clutch pedal after pressing it down and it's fully bitten down onto the flywheel and you launch forward...no slipping....that can be real fun in stop and go traffic I'll tell you!!...but people "adjust"...it's more an annoyance than anything...but those clutches never slip and can handle big honking amounts of power added on without self-destructing. So like any other street vs full race mod: you compromise....a little slipping, a less quick bite, and an easier pedal for less indestructability. Don't expect stock pedal effort from any "good" and "serious" clutch upgrade.
 

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i drove my friends n2o fed civic si with a clutchnet stage 2 6 puck and that thing grabs so hard. i got stuck in traffic during rush hour and it was pretty damn annoying tryin to let off the clutch easy without squealin tires or stallin, overall i liked it though and am considering that clutch or a cluthmasters kit.
 

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opening my glovebox on upshifts from 1-2 and 2-3 on my ACT HD/SS even has led me to wanting a stock ITR pressure plate and a sprung kevlar lined disk. I am sure this can handle 150lb/ft of TQ daily driven in a Teg.
We are putting in a 98+JDM ITR tranny and an action clutch in my friend's car tomorrow morning. after two weeks, I am anxious to drive it and see what it feels like. he only has a GSR with a DAC DC intake, old school RS-R exhaust and a DC 4-2-1 header. We are also doing a 60K on his car, full tune up. We are hoping to make 160 on the wheels peak with 115-120 at 5250 in his car. That clutch looked great when it came and I am dying to see what it feels like. The pressure plate I believe is 1600psi which should be pretty good. Comparable to the ACT I had in my car I would guess.
 

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importbuilders are breaking trannies...not just the clutch with their 150+ lb ft torque 2L B18C's...

the weak link is the bearing with more clamping force. The Japanese clutches like OS Giken use a bigger diameter throw out bearing. The US based clutch manufacturers have not caught on to this yet for some reason.

RPS apparently tries to achieve more bite without cranking up the clamping force by double riveting their fingers on their pressure plates for turbo applications. You may want to look into their pressure plates.

I'm not a big fan of altering the fulcrum point on the pressure plate fingers to achieve more clamping force...this is what CM's plates have.

I try to get a balance of high clamping force with less pedal effort by using a race pressure plate but mixing it with a sprung hub street disc for easier pedal effort at the risk of a spring popping out of the disc when I race and hammer on the clutch. I'm not a big fan of the springless hub puck discs as knightrider described the reason perfectly. But if you want something that will take anything and have a ultrafast bite (like an on/off switch with no slip at all)they are your choice.

Have you checked out the clutchnet.com's racing discs?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i went ahead and got the stage 3 cm, it's not all that bad actually, pedal effort isn't a pain, but i can notice the increase.. the flywheel is by far the best thing i've done so far, it's like my integra has extra pep now! but the only thing is i have to re-time my downshifts.. well thanks alot
 

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Im wondering if i was thinking bout stage 2 or 3 but wasnt sure bout supercharge should i get 3???? I have weapon R intake, 5Zigen exhaust, DC headers, NGK wires...
For sure its not the LAst im still going to do more to the car...basily should i just go safe and go stage 3 or do whut i think which is 2??
 

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learn how to do it yourself, then you wont have a problem changing later your stocker will be fine until then, the clutch you want will not last more than 15K driven like you will want to drive it. if you SC it then, it will not hold like you want it to and you will have to change the disk. wait to upgrade your clutch until the stock one or the one you are on now runs out.
thats my advice to you. these things dont last like a stock clutch
 

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I'm also deciding between a stage2 or 3 CM clutch. I have a 1997 LS with injen intake, nology wires, 5zigen exhaust, aem pulley kit, and hks plugs. if i got a stage 2 will this also only last me about 15k miles? im looking for sometihng kinda permanent.
 

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Look into the ACT-HDSS kit. ACT doesnt go by stages. This is the kit that I am getting put in on friday. Everyone who has it is extremely satisfied. It handles a good amount of power, lasts a long time, and does not have a bad feel to it.
 

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act disks have bad input shaft hubs and a crappy spun copper disk material that lasts no more than 20K hard driven miles, why bother. plus the copper material destroys facings on flywheels... kevlar disk for me
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i've had my stage 3 in for about 7 onths with almost 20k miles on it..launch it quite often at 5k rpm..hasn't slipped..still grabs good..no problems yet..an i do drive like a bat outta hell
 

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stage 3 clutch on a stock engine = overkill: the most common mistake made by beginners when it comes to buying clutch upgrades is to get a clutch that is too much for the tq output of the engine. it's that simplistic but misguided notion that bigger is always better.


that is why you should get the clutch that is suited to your engine's tq out put and driving use combined. that is why we listed in the clutch common topic all the factors that should be considered when you buy a clutch so that you make a shopping decision based on facts and not opinions.

again, if you plan to build up the engine, then choose the appropriate clutch to that level of build up. if you don't know your power goal, then you can't make a rational intelligent decision on clutch choice. the clutch stage system is based on power output of the engine.
 

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MichaelDelaney on Sep/21/05 said:
if you follow that advice then don't come back complaining about driveability in stop & go traffic.
Yeah man, it sucks in traffic. I think the dude that had it before me had the engine hooked up. I'm not going to be racing, so when I get some extra cash I'll probably throw a stage 1 in there.
 

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I live in atlanta... I know stop and go traffic. Driving a 5-spd sucks period. and a stage 3 don't feel much diff. get a stg 1. just remember do what you want we won't be mad
 

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Echo419 on Sep/21/05 said:
I live in atlanta... I know stop and go traffic. Driving a 5-spd sucks period. and a stage 3 don't feel much diff. get a stg 1 put your super charger on and start shopping for a stg 3. cause 6 months after the super charger you'll want more, trust me. go look at pics of an OEM and stage 1-3 for yourself
just remember do what you want we won't be mad
I seriously doubt I'm going to put a super charger on it anytime in the near future.
 
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