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Discussion Starter #1
A while back i came to the conclusion that the NeuSpeed Sports just aren't stiff enough for my racing needs (great for street though, looks good, but i digress). So i'm asking what type of spring rates you guys use on your cars for racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Integra15lb on Sep/21/02 said:
meusspeed race has high spring rates and h&r race also thers a article on this.
I was thinking more along the lines of non-prograssive spring rates. As in custom ones for a set of GCs or the like. Area of 500F/400R.
 

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skunk2 coilover sleeves = 500f/400r
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SurferX on Sep/21/02 said:
Sleeves on a track?
A) Some of us can't drop the thousand + it'll take for some shiny name brand "real" coilovers

B) People who race alot more than 95% of the people here use the Koni/GC combo on race prepped RX-7s, Miatas and the like to VERY good results (FTD 9 times outta 10 at your local auto-X, anyone?), so save me the "sleeves are crap" speel.
 

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I think SurferX is commenting on the sleeves that will let the spring slide around the shock under heavy turning. He is also aware of the Koni/GC setup that uses a special adapter that lets this setup function like it is a "real" coilover because he has mentioned this before.

GC is the only sleeved coilover that has this option I think, so he might have been speaking for all other brands of sleeved coilovers.

Back to the topic, I'm in the same boat you are on. I'm trying to enhance my performance with some custom springs. I would suggest the Koni/GC setup with custom spring rates also. I don't know the exact numbers to give you, but I would suggest a setup that will give you some more oversteer, meaning the rear spring rates will have to be stiffer than the bias that such companies such as Eibach and H&R provide on their regular springs.

I though about doing a custom Eibach Sportline front springs and Nuespeed Race or H&R Race rear springs, giving me 360lb front rates and around 450 lb rear rates. I am thinking this might be good, I am just surveying replies on a thread I started in the Suspension sectoin.
 

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if you are looking for a setup that will help rotate the car but not make it dance like it's doing a polka on the streets, then the maximum rear spring limit is around 600 lb/ft.

Most aftermarket setups and especially those from the Japanese brands still stiffen the front more than the rear. I looked at the Buddy Club and Endless coilovers and neither offered stiffer rears than fronts. My friends said jokingly to just swap the fronts for the rears.

In Japan, they tend to use more agressive front toe out, caster, and camber than we do to induce oversteer rotation on a FWD car. I was told they also change the diameter of the wheels : front vs back to get more rotation and they use different compounds: front vs back.
They use stiffer front swaybars vs rear as well.

In North America, we tend to go the traditional mild toe out, more camber, and stiffen the rear with bigger swaybar in the rear than front and stiffer rear springs than front to induce rotation. We don't vary the wheel diameters (front vs rear) nor do we vary the tire compounds (front vs rear).

Different ways to skin a cat I guess.

The shock adjustability is another thing that is really a sore point for me. The cheap adjustable shocks change the valving so that both rebound and compression are changed by the same amount as you go from one setting to the next. Anyone who has done road racing will tell you that rebound is the more important tuning variable when you are on a smooth surface. I wish one of the shock manufacturers would make an affordable double adjustable shock so that you can vary rebound more than the compression. Rally cars on the other hand tend to prefer more compression than rebound stiffness due to the changing traction of the roads they run on...like gravel to pavement to mud....So the racers really need to see an affordable double adjustable out there...has anyone seen any?

Yes ohlins, penske, or sachs would be great but the cash ain't there from my pocket. GAB and bilstein are the alternatives to koni yellows so far and they all change the rebound and compression by the same amount...oh well, we have to live them.
 

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::sigh:: i hate this world of soo many options, and no money to get what's really good. oh well...i'm happy with my S2/Tokico setup.
 

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Hey guys whats up? I have a 2001 integra gsr. I was planning on getting the Comptech 1.25 drop springs for my car. only reason is because I bought every warranty possible for my car and so Im gonna be going mostly Comptech on my car. I wanted to know if anyone knows anything about them? Do they sag? I've been told they should settle to 1.5. Id appreciate any replies. Thanks
 

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Nacho on Sep/21/02 said:
A) Some of us can't drop the thousand + it'll take for some shiny name brand "real" coilovers

B) People who race alot more than 95% of the people here use the Koni/GC combo on race prepped RX-7s, Miatas and the like to VERY good results (FTD 9 times outta 10 at your local auto-X, anyone?), so save me the "sleeves are crap" speel.
Haha quite hostile. I sell aromatherapy in my stores and can get 40% off for you on a "stress less" kit


I don't put much faith into who does what at your local auto-x. Ranking depends mainly on the skill and experience of the local drivers. Some guy down here took a Ford Explorer (yes the SUV) and pulled faster times than some of the local WRX club. I don't take that to mean Explorers are faster and/or handle better than WRXs would you?

on a track the name of the game is reliability and consistancy. Whether it's for a 2 minunte auto-x run or a 30 minunte lapping session on a road course I don't take chances on cheap parts. But I never said to get some fancy expensive coilover package. In fact I doubt most would even be able to take advantage of what coilovers have to offer. one of the main things people overlook is corner weighting of the car, and with sleeves you're likely to mess up all your settings after you take it on for it's first run. If I can't afford real coilovers (who can?) then I would go with quality standalone springs for better reliability and consistancy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SurferX on Sep/21/02 said:
Haha quite hostile. I sell aromatherapy in my stores and can get 40% off for you on a "stress less" kit


I don't put much faith into who does what at your local auto-x. Ranking depends mainly on the skill and experience of the local drivers. Some guy down here took a Ford Explorer (yes the SUV) and pulled faster times than some of the local WRX club. I don't take that to mean Explorers are faster and/or handle better than WRXs would you?

on a track the name of the game is reliability and consistancy. Whether it's for a 2 minunte auto-x run or a 30 minunte lapping session on a road course I don't take chances on cheap parts. But I never said to get some fancy expensive coilover package. In fact I doubt most would even be able to take advantage of what coilovers have to offer. one of the main things people overlook is corner weighting of the car, and with sleeves you're likely to mess up all your settings after you take it on for it's first run. If I can't afford real coilovers (who can?) then I would go with quality standalone springs for better reliability and consistancy.
Sorry, its just half the time i ask about GC spring rates, i get the "Sleeves are junk, you're a ricer" speel. The bonus (to me) with the GCs is the availability of any custom spring rates on demand for different events, the price and the fact they work with my konis that are already on the car.

And the comment about local auto-xers, the person i speak of has been a regional champion and national tourer (in teh past), so i trust his judgement on parts. They seem to work well for his car, and he's had none of the reliability issues that everyone claims happen alot. Also, he DDs his auto-X cars, so they're not track only cars.

Also, i can get the car corner weighted with the GCs once i get them. Set the height and adjust type of deal. The bigger draw to me is the custom spring rates than the height adjustibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Meh, i ordered 400F/500R GCs (reccomeneded rates from H-T.com members), so i'll let you guys know how it is.
 

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i've been looking into this also. Now wouldn't the 400/500 rate be pretty harsh for street?

I'm looking for some springs for my daily driver/autocross set up. Correct my thinking if i'm wrong but a higher pring rate is better for handleing but not so good for daily driving. of course new shocks are needed for any higher rate and to keep the car from having excess bouncyness.

Keeping that in mind, how would a mild spring rate and some adj shocks be? say the eibach pro-kit (stiffer then stock LS) and some koni yellows. would putting the shocks on very stiff equal out the mild spring rate for the autocross days? That way i could still set the shocks on a lower setting for street and not have a hard ride to and from work each day.

any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
'stock' rates on the Integra Ground Controls are 380F and about 285R (not sure about the rear). i was reccomended "about 380F and 400R" for auto-Xing, but the guy that said that doesn't race. People who race (and DD), said 400/500. I figured 400F wasn't that far off the 'stock' 380 rate, so it can't be that bad. I'm a LITTLE worried about the rear rate, but then again; i don't sit in the back.
 

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I'm looking into getting the custom rate GC matched with koni yellows, and I was thinking about 380F, 450R. This is pretty close to the 400F/500R that some of you have been talking about and I was wondering how the ride was as far as a daily driver? Does the rear end seem to want to jump out in corners or when you hit bumps? Any input is appreciated.
~Sean
 

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Nacho on Sep/24/02 said:
Meh, i ordered 400F/500R GCs (reccomeneded rates from H-T.com members), so i'll let you guys know how it is.
I hope this works out for you. I run the Neuspeed race springs and they are 455-F and 360-R. I would be very hesitant on putting more spring rate in the rear than the front. My car has very little under steer in it as is. So going with more rate in the rear would freak me out. Maybe it just my driving style.
What shocks are you going to run with those higher rates?
How does your car handle with the Neuspeed Sports?
 

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a lot of people are running higher spring rates in the rear, usually about a 100lb difference. 500f/600r style. and i also have a friend running around 1200 f and 1400 r on his 98 R but that is barely driven on the road.

its all about how MD was saying we stiffen the rear to achieve oversteer.


BTW this thread is very old
 

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didn't notice the date....

I do know why but my car is so neutral as it is now that going with higher rates in the rear would cause problems for me.
 

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you can run 600 rear spring rates on the street if you have the proper adjustable shock valving and not notice it given our wheel rate conversions on the gen 2-3 Teg suspensions. bad shocks and you notice it a lot.

you don't have a neutral car. it has 60-64% front to 36-40% rear weight distribution. it's not neutral trust me on this one.

if you can reduce the understeer at the limit to a point where you're happy then you've accomplished something. The fact that Realtime used a 30 mm rear swaybar called the Mombo and 1200-1500 lb/in. springs says how much understeer they had to dial out for road racing.

in solo2 you are running at lower speeds and tighter corner radiuses and so the amount of stiffness needed will be less than the solo1 road racing guys who are going at a higher clip.

again, you must decide if you want to go the Japanese front stiffer than rear but lowered setup or the standard rear siffer than front "Mugen style" or North American layout which requires less "slamming to the ground" and camber.
 
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