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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just filled up my tank. I drove for maybe 10 miles and I find out that something is doing a rev kill at 5K RPM. The check engine light is on and everything. What could have possibly gone wrong?? There isn't any smoke coming out the back and it run perfectly smooth below 5 grand. HELP!!!!!
 

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Something is up thats preventing VTEC from engaging. Your ECU is protecting your engine and this is probably what is known as "limp" mode. Try to refrain from driving it hard, or even at all until you can get it checked out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does VTEC engage that early? It usually doesn't kick in till closer to 6000.
 

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i think u might have something wrong with ur head on ur car. i would go2 the dealer and get it checked out
 

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Thanks to SurferX for this info in his article "All About VTEC."

"Coupled with VTEC, you can see the GS-R engine has three stages of operation.

Stage 1 (0-4400 RPM): Low-lift cam lobe and long intake runners.

Stage 2 (4400-5800 RPM): High-lift cam lobe and long intake runners.

Stage 3 (5800+ RPM): High-lift cam lobe and short intake runners."

So it engages at 4400 RPM. Keep in mind that VTEC depends on 5 things to engage, it doesn't always engage right at 4400 RPM, it depends on those 5 things and then it engages. i.e. it may engage earlier/later due to load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmmmmmmm.... I don't think its a VTEC problem then. It goes all the way to 5 grand before it kills.
 

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Well like I said, when VTEC engages is actually dependent on load and those other 5 things. It will never always engage at 4400 RPM. And keep in mind that the stock tach is pretty inaccurate.

These are the 5 things.

In order for the ECU to initiate the VTEC system, 5 engine conditions must be met.

Temperature: The engine must have reached normal operating temperature.

Throttle Position: The throttle must be open far enough to allow for increased airflow in VTEC.

Vehicle Speed: The car must be in motion (wheels spinning).

RPM: Engine must spin to it's target value. The GS-R will send it's "GO" signal for VTEC at 4400 RPM while the Type R sends it's signal at 5700 RPM.

Oil Pressure: The engine must be operating with normal and safe levels of oil pressure determined by the VTEC pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just went out and started it up again. The check engine light is still on, but its not killing at 5 grand anymore. WTF?? 300 miles past warrantee too. Son of a *****...... Oh well. I'm going to get it into a shop quick. Thanks for the quick advice and ideas, guys. :)
 

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Does VTEC engage that early? It usually doesn't kick in till closer to 6000.
Actually thats your secondary intake manifold runners opening up (around 5,500). Which is what you hear.

It could be as simple as being low on oil, check your oil and try pulling the code and see what it is. There is an article on the site on how to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've got an oil change scheduled for Saturday. I hope its nothing serious. I am a little past due. I've learned my lesson on that though.
 

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is ur oil low? if so then buy a quart of oil until u go get it changed
 

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justYncredible on Sep/26/02 said:
is ur oil low? if so then buy a quart of oil until u go get it changed
Good idea, but this wouldn't be causing the rev limiter at 5,000. VTEC just wouldn't engage and you'd stay on the low end cams and have a lot of power missing...
 

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defintely i used to lose power at 5000 with vte if i was low on oil and hondas are known for oil consumption---
check it and add a quart if needed then try again
 

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95gsrturbo on Sep/26/02 said:
defintely i used to lose power at 5000 with vte if i was low on oil and hondas are known for oil consumption---
check it and add a quart if needed then try again
I've heard this about Hondas too. I swear, though, I could run mine into the ground and still not burn any oil. Everytime I change my oil it is exactly where it was before on the dipstick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hmmmmmm..... I've got a diagnostic scheduled at the Acura dealership in the morning. I'll have them read the code and change my oil. I can't believe that I let it come to that. I feel stupid. My poor car. I'll treat it with a couple quarts of the good stuff in the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just checked the oil. It could probably use a quart. Hopefully that's the problem. Thanks a ton for your help, guys. :) This place and Autopia are my homes away from home. I would have gone crazy not knowing what the deal was.
 

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you ca check your CE light on your own, there is an article on doing it, id post a link, but then you wouldnt actually look for it, so look through the articles, you'll find it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
sneeedle on Sep/26/02 said:
you ca check your CE light on your own, there is an article on doing it, id post a link, but then you wouldnt actually look for it, so look through the articles, you'll find it..
You cruel cruel man....
'sokay. I've worked on enough message boards to understand. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, I found it. My only question is, where is that plug at? Is it on the driver's side or the passenger's? I have no idea where the ECU is at. Never needed it.
 
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