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Discussion Starter #1
So, I got the awful won't idle/stay running/won't start without throttle taken care of.

Now, it's been mostly great. In fact, it's been damn good.
But, today, three times, pulling away from a stoplight it just had no power. Giving it more gas made the intake louder, but the car didn't really GO faster. It is enough to make it to cruising speed, but the throttle response is completely gone and it just crawls until around 75-80% throttle.

So far it has new cap/rotor, plugs, wires, valve cover gasket, TPS, the two larger coolant temp sensors, fuel filter, and new throttle cable.

I'm starting to really hate this car. So much random crap has gone wrong with it in a two week time frame and it's just getting hard to deal with.

Any ideas where to check for the lack of throttle response? I'm almost thinking it's a clutch issue.
Driving home on a long drive three days ago, I went to downshift and I had nothing. It wouldn't let me into any gear at all. Clutch pedal still went down and up fine, just couldn't change gears.

Shut it off, pulled over, and after messing with it for 30 minutes, put it in reverse (car off could go in any gear no problem) and kicked the engine over. Even with the clutch pedal in, the car started jumping backwards as if it were in gear. After the engine rotated 3 times, it loosened up and everything was fine for another 120 miles.
Wondering if the clutch isn't releasing the entire way and that might be causing the lack of power.
 

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Few things to check for:


1. Clutch fluid level
2. Bleed the clutch
3. Adjust clutch pedal
4. Slave and/or clutch master cylinder(s)
5. Throw-out bearing
6. Clutch
7. Pressure plate


I actually had a similar issue. Turned-out flywheel bolts backed-out from the crankshaft which prevented the clutch from engaging with the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Few things to check for:


1. Clutch fluid level
2. Bleed the clutch
3. Adjust clutch pedal
4. Slave and/or clutch master cylinder(s)
5. Throw-out bearing
6. Clutch
7. Pressure plate


I actually had a similar issue. Turned-out flywheel bolts backed-out from the crankshaft which prevented the clutch from engaging with the flywheel.
I'll try bleeding it tomorrow, if I have time. I assume you bleed them similar to a brake set up? Have someone pump the clutch, then hold it, break the bleeder loose, tighten, repeat?

I assume there is no easy way to find out if the flywheel bolts are the culprit short of pulling the tranny out?
 

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Either that or you can remove the harmonic balancer and check if the keyway is stretched. This is a side effect when flywheel gets loose - the keyway on the main pulley gets damaged (becomes elongated).


As far as the clutch bleeding, you are correct. Just keep refilling the reservoir as you go. The bleed valve is on the slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally got around to bleeding the clutch. The brake fluid was literally black... it looked like Pepsi. Took almost 30 seconds of vacuum pumping to get the air out.

On first drive, the clutch grabbed almost right off the floor (used to be in the middle) but all was well. After it sat for a few hours, the clutch grab point moved to the middle of the pedal travel.

I might replace the slave and master just because they're super easy to do, and it's gonna happen anyway cause after bleeding the clutch, the throwout bearing started squealing away with the clutch not depressed so I'm gonna do a clutch and what not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it was doing great, until today. After work, I did a 1st-3rd pull, and afterwards the lack of throttle response was back. It seems to happen with the clutch in as well.

Could this still be related to the clutch? The throwout bearing is squealing like crazy now (after the bleed it started).

Could it have anything to do with both O2 sensors being cut?

Or maybe a MAP sensor issue?
 
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