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Discussion Starter #23
So as I'm in the process of disassembling the motor, I got to thinking... I'm back to NA, not looking to be racing, just need a nice reliable car that I love to drive. I'm back to the original p73 ecu (not chipped), and essentially going back to 'stock' even though the motor is fully built. I currently have a jdm B18C with Darton sleeves, ERL guard block, and the block was prepared by ERL performance... However, I still have the original b18c5 that belongs to the car in storage... Even though I'm going to be driving easy from here on, I still like the idea of having just about a bullet proof block, but the more I think about it, I'm debating if I should just drop in the original block, which was pulled around 30k miles... I've dumped a lot of money trying to get her back up and running since she was stolen and even though I'd like to drop in stock itr pistons and rods, I can't justify the expense without getting a divorce, especially since I dropped in new CP pistons (9.18:1 CR) and Eagle H Beam rods (length: 5.430) 1k miles ago since I was boosting 26psi back then...

My biggest concern right now is: with the lower compression pistons, is that going to cause my car to run like s*** given the stock ecu map / Will it cause long term problems? If I end up finding an amazing deal on itr pistons would I have to get the rods milled since they're 5.430" and stock rods are 5.429" or will it not make a mechanical difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I decided to drop the stock block back in with new pistons, rings, bearings etc...

Update with quick recap:

I finally got my motor put back together and we fired her up on a fresh rebuild for about a minute and turned it off because the cel came on with cel code 71 and 72... before the rebuild I was running an AEM EMS V2 and boosting but the car was stolen and run hard. they burnt 2 valves and created some blow by. I tore down the head and decided to go back to "stockish" and NA with the original ECU (I have never used it, it came with the car when I bought it), and replaced the RC injectors and clips with refurbished injectors and clips from a junkyard that appeared in good condition (there is continuity between the ground wires on the 4 clips but I only get a quick signal when testing continuity to chassis, and they all read 12V during priming).
I was having some misfiring (same cylinders and it progressed to all cylinders) after fixing the head and the car was running like crap so I decided to tear it completely down; I replaced the JDM sleeved block i had with the original block (took it to a machine shop to get cleaned and honed), new pistons, rings, etc... and here I am...

Update: after a leak down test, there was air coming out of the intake on cylinders 1&2 and after hours of banging our heads against the wall it occurred to my buddy to check the valve lash... They were SUPER TIGHT... My buddy adjusted the valve lash without the appropriate tool and the cel codes went away, however, now I have a code 1 & there's a really loud clacking as if the valves were just slapping around... Ordered the tool and going to attempt to re-lash today... It seems maybe the ecu is good...

Update: we re-adjusted the valves with the proper tool (they were WAY out of spec) my buddy couldn't believe how bad they were considering he did it the night prior... Most of the clattering is gone but there is still a slight clatter... Now we have 2 codes, p1399 which I'm assuming is from whichever valve is still clattering & p0132 which I still have no idea, but I haven't done anything with the o2 sensors yet, which is my next step after double checking valve lash again...

I'm open to suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter #25
SOLVED - P0312 Cel code 01: IN CASE ANYONE ELSE COMES ACROSS THIS ISSUE IN THE FUTURE!!!

After an INSANE amount of troubleshooting and headaches after the car was stolen and having to rebuild because they screwed up the motor... the issue ended up being the AEM Wideband... THAT'S IT!!! I went from an AEM EMS back to stock ECU and the wideband was tapped into one of the wires on the ECU which I'm assuming was creating a minor difference in Voltage causing the ECU to get false readings which in turn was over compensating and causing irregular driving issues... All I had to do was disconnect that wire and problem solved and the AEM UEGO still gives me the AFR.

NOW no more cel codes but I still have the idle issue: When the motor is cold the first few mins it runs great, idles at 800 RPM and no issues, but after the motor warms up if there is no load on the engine (i.e if I'm not driving or AC is off), the moment I press the clutch and go in neutral the car turns off. It starts right back up with no issues but idles between 400-600 RPM
 
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