[JustTegIt]

so i finally got around to putting in a bosch relay to bypass my dual stage shock sensor that keeps going off when my 529T closes my sunroof when i arm my alarm (i have the 529T wired to clsoe the sunroof if it is open when i arm my alarm, the problem is, that the alarm is armed instantly and the sunroof takes a few seconds to close, and when it slams down shut it makes the shock sensor go off)....

the problem still occurs, alarm still goes off even though i am sure i hooked up the relay correctly. i wired it as follows:

12V constant --> Pin 86
Output during Activation From 529T--> pin 85
(-) Output From Sensor--> Pin 87A
(-) input to Alarm--> Pin 30


this is the only possible logical setup, i dont get why it wouldnt work...the output thru activation should show ground until the sunroof is completely closed, which should inclue the moment when it slams down at the end which is what is triggering the sensor...any ideas?

 

[90_integraLS]

not sure what alarm you have but some have dip switches that will allow you to set a 10sec. delay before the alarm actually arms itself...have you checked to see if that was an option...cause if it was you wouldn't even need the relay

 

[JustTegIt]

nah, i have the Clifford RSX 3.5, and trust me it has features out the ass, and it has a passive arming feature(that i dont want to use anyway), but neither that NOR a dipswitch that offers a delay would matter, because the alarm isnt gonna show GROUND WHEN ARMED until it actually arms anyway, so all either of those would do is delay the whole process, the sunroof would be on the same delay and still set off the alarm, since the sunroof is controlled by the GROUND WHEN ARMED output of the alarm

 

[MorningZ]

ever think of just turning down the shock sensor?

also might want to run a few days with the shock sensor unplugged to be absolutely sure the sensor is the cause...

i have the exact same setup, no more, and i have never ever ever had my alarm go off upon arming

 

[JustTegIt]

well i have my shock snesor set too light actually, i can kick my tire pretty damn hard and still not have it go off....i have the shock sensor ziptied to a wire harness, so it is mounted properly....i would rather not turn down the shock sensor....additionally, i occasionally get a sensor 2 icon on the remote, which is my proximity sensor, so i was planning on diode isolating the outputs from both sensors to pin 87A, thereby taking care of my prox and my shock...which is why i really wanna get this bypass workin

...and usually it is just warning chirps, not full alarm, but either way i dont want it to be happeneing

 

[MorningZ]

so you are fearing someone running up to your car and kicking your tire?

remount your shock sensor elsewhere and adjust it right..... instead of all this hacking up bypass stuff.... its totally the wrong direction to go...

also, if you have the prox and shock on the same zone, and that zone goes off when the sunroof close... and the sunroof is probably in the path of the prox.. hmmmmm....

as suggested in my last post: first i'd start disconnecting things for a few days to absolutey, positively make sure you are attacking the right part

and as suggested in this post: install the stuff right instead of all this jimmy rigging, all you are doing is making things worse

 

[JustTegIt]

no, i am not worried about someone kicking my tires, i was testing my schock sensor, i dont want to apply force to my teg anywhere else, i already have had enough door dings fro losers in parking lots, i dont need to start destroyin my car myslef...

and if you read carefuly, you will see that i said i was going to diode isolate the outputs from the sensors going to the realy, the only reason i would be doing this is if they are on different zones and i didnt want backfeeding....they ARE on two different zones always have been, i have the shock on multiplexed zone 2, and the prox on multiplexed Zone 4....i am working with these individually, i have disconnected one and just worked with the other, to no avail...i dont think it is that uncommon for a sensor to be tripped by a 529T...it even had a half a page and a relay diagram dedicated to it in the manual! just becasue it isnt happeneing to you doesnt mean it cant happen to me...my shock sensor is mounted properly, not to bare metal, securely ziptied onto a thick OEM underdash wiring harness...

 

[jgold47]

<br /><br /><br /><div class="ReplyBlock">In Reply To:<br />no, i am not worried about someone kicking my tires, i was testing my schock sensor, i dont want to apply force to my teg anywhere else, i already have had enough door dings fro losers in parking lots, i dont need to start destroyin my car myslef...<br /><br />and if you read carefuly, you will see that i said i was going to diode isolate the outputs from the sensors going to the realy, the only reason i would be doing this is if they are on different zones and i didnt want backfeeding....they ARE on two different zones always have been, i have the shock on multiplexed zone 2, and the prox on multiplexed Zone 4....i am working with these individually, i have disconnected one and just worked with the other, to no avail...i dont think it is that uncommon for a sensor to be tripped by a 529T...it even had a half a page and a relay diagram dedicated to it in the manual! just becasue it isnt happeneing to you doesnt mean it cant happen to me...my shock sensor is mounted properly, not to bare metal, securely ziptied onto a thick OEM underdash wiring harness

 

I think you are going at it wrong too, for whatever reason the prox likes to false all the time....I used to have to run out to my car at work every day and unplug everything since it would keep going off...I had one for almost a year and I could never get it tweaked correctly, its a pain in the ass to set right... I would start there...

 

as for the shock senor, the acceptable method that we used to test it is to take your fist and hit your a-pillar on the drivers side, dont kick the tire, bang the a pillar at the same hardness untill it goes off, then you have it set right, also try mounting the shock sensor around the drivers kick panel, its good metallic place to be.

you want it on metal...zipping to wire bundles is no good, you loose too much vibration from the wires moving and absorbing it, try the steering columb, or the drivers side under dash, up by where the factory relay packs for everythign are. 

and like steve said, you need to make sure that the shock sensor is what is causing the problem before you start diode isolating and interrupting anything...

Identify, Isolate, Eliminate..

 
are you using the grey wire from the 529?

 

[jgold47]

Ok I get this now...

1. make sure that relay is hooked up right.....

when you are interrupting the sensor triggers (blue/green), its still falsing...

diode isolate everything on the alarm side but I would kill the ground of the sensors not the triggers...

so do this

hook it they way you had it, but

take 30 to a good ground with a larger gauge wire
87a to the diode isolated ground of both sensors.

and no ground from the brain (plug in's for the sensors).

it might also help to give the sensors their own 12v power source, instead of piggy backing on the brain output.



this way when you trip the relay you kill ground to both sensors, otherwise you have a nice big ground wire for those sensors which if I rember correctly from a dei tech, is one of the reasons those sensors dont work well togeather, when directly plugging them in...

try that....

 

[MorningZ]

you're missing the point

you are (wrongly) just "assuming" that your shock sensor is mounted in its best possible place

you are also probably wrongly assuming that the problem lies in your sunroof/shock-sensor.. when it may be sunroof/prox

the way to 100% find out (and for the 3rd time now), is to start eliminating what it can be to find out what it is.....you are soooo wasting time thinking you need to shunt the shock sensors trigger wires when you cannot even say with certainty that it is the cause of your headaches

simply unhooking the prox for a day... see if the alarm falses.....

then rehook it and unhook the the shock... see if the alarm falses....

whatever man, just trying not to let you waste your time.... my pardon.... it's not like i don't know any security or anything

 

[built4speed]

Uhm.. Im not trying to be sarcastic here by any means..
but is it really THAT hard to just close the sunroof manually before you arm anything?

I mean.. its only a button away, and takes like 4 seconds mabye. Wheres the big rush out of the car that you couldnt just close that yourself if its such a problem when using the setup??

(Yes, yes, I know you shouldnt HAVE to) but I mean ..
ya know what Im saying? It sounds like thats the only thing holding you up, so ... just close it yourself.

- Josh

 

[JustTegIt]

i have said that i ALREADY HAVE ISOLATED THEM, and am SURE that it is the shock sensor....following both of your advise i am going to remount the shock sensor, for now i just went out and turned it all the way down, until i remount it..

i understood both of your points, i just simply wanted to get the bypass working so that i could have the freedom to set my shock sensor as light as i wanted to, within reason, without having to worry about the sunroof....so, to sum up the issue, i have DEFINATIVELY determined it is the shock sensor triggering the alarms, which are sometimes chirps and sometimes full alarms, but have yet to get the bypass working, so i am left with simply remounting the shock sensor and setting it to the maximum sensitivity that i can at that point that wont be triggered by the sunroof...

i want you guys to understand i really appreciate you helping me, i knwo you have been both doing this a long ass time, but i also want you to understand that while my request may seem out of place, i still think that it is a valid want for me to have(the flexibility that i would have with a bypass)

 

[MorningZ]

Uhm.. Im not trying to be sarcastic here by any means..
but is it really THAT hard to just close the sunroof manually before you arm anything?

I mean.. its only a button away, and takes like 4 seconds mabye. Wheres the big rush out of the car that you couldnt just close that yourself if its such a problem when using the setup??

(Yes, yes, I know you shouldnt HAVE to) but I mean ..
ya know what Im saying? It sounds like thats the only thing holding you up, so ... just close it yourself.

- Josh

automation is a beautiful thing man, you wouldn't understand unless you had it

 

[jgold47]

thats fine, but that wasnt clear from your message...

 

[JustTegIt]

Uhm.. Im not trying to be sarcastic here by any means..
but is it really THAT hard to just close the sunroof manually before you arm anything?

I mean.. its only a button away, and takes like 4 seconds mabye. Wheres the big rush out of the car that you couldnt just close that yourself if its such a problem when using the setup??

(Yes, yes, I know you shouldnt HAVE to) but I mean ..
ya know what Im saying? It sounds like thats the only thing holding you up, so ... just close it yourself.

- Josh

i think you are missing the point of WHY we install 529T's in the first place....granted, i can also OPEN the roof by using my remote, but i will hardly ever do that....i bought the 529T as a CoNVENIENCE feature, i spent the moeny on it and the time installing it, what is so wrong with me trying to get it to work?

additionally, i will never get caught with my sunroof open if a freak rain storm comes, assuming i have alrmed the alarm and havent decided to go back and vent it using my remote

 

[built4speed]

Yeah I know it wasnt the answer you were looking for lol. I was making a poor attempt at an unbiased resolve.

Hell, Id love for my ride to close all up on its own like it was the batmobile or something haha, but like Z said, its true .. no automated processes for me yet so I wouldnt understand the same.

- Josh