[GSRstilez]

A couple notes on this...



About a week ago I noticed a nasty squeaking sound coming from my rear right caliper. I checked out the pad through my wheel and noticed it was nearly metal on metal and the wheel was hot after only 5 miles of driving. I quickly checked the other side and it had about 70% life left, no squeak, no heat.


once lifted, I removed my right rear wheel and examined the problem. The rotor would not move whatsoever (brakes disengaged). I took off the caliper and analyzed. The piston would not retract, even after turning (as per article) it, pressing it with pliers, etc. After doing a bit of reading, I determined the caliper was seized.



I went to Advance Autoparts and picked up an OE caliper and rear pads for R+L. I installed, bleeded the lines and started the car. I pressed the pedal to regain feeling and the problem was fixed.



I've done about 50 miles since then and the pad feel is much better. I have no squeak, better acceleration (less resistance), and better mpg.



This post is purely to inform you of your problem if you have had similar signs of damage. This job was a 3 or 4 out of 10 for difficulty. I thought it was very easy IMO, with the article.


Good Luck.

 

[FlatRate]

Another thing to note, please check e-brake for function as well.

Other than that, :thumbsup:

 

[crteg]

I don't mean to jack your thread but I have a question. When I first got my car the ebrake would only lock up one tire. I tried adjusting it but I was easy to see that either one cable was seized or "actuator" on the caliper was seized. Has anyone had this problem before? Im guesing it is just the cable but I'm not sure. Would this be a big job to fix?

Ohh yeah when the car is jacked up the brakes lock both tires but the ebrake only lockes on up.
Thanks

 

[FlatRate]

It is most likely your brake cable on one side of the wheel that is not functioning. Have someone pull the e-brake and inspect it.

 

[Ichishima]

get ready for the rest of the calipers to follow suit, on my car all but one has failed within 5k miles of each other. ive replaced both front and one rear within the last year. all between 115-130k haha like clockwork

 

[GSRstilez]

sak: Yep, once I started her up, pumped the fluid with the pedal, the ebrake engaged as it did before...Just now with more bite.

Ichishima: My front calipers have been replaced already, but thanks for the heads up.

 

[clarity335]

i had the same problem, i got these loaded calipers from autozone really cheap. Fixed the problem and they look much nicer too.

 

[Sottilde]

I have a question I hope someone can get to pretty quickly -


My rear driver's side caliper is junk. I need to replace it but I can't for another few days, and I need to drive the car. We simply took the pads out, thinking that the brakes wouldn't engage without them, but I'm getting some crazy metal-on-metal squealing and all kinds of noise back there.

So my question is - is there an easy way to "disable" the caliper completely until I get a new one in?

 

[chaos_reigns_01]

I have a question I hope someone can get to pretty quickly -


My rear driver's side caliper is junk. I need to replace it but I can't for another few days, and I need to drive the car. We simply took the pads out, thinking that the brakes wouldn't engage without them, but I'm getting some crazy metal-on-metal squealing and all kinds of noise back there.

So my question is - is there an easy way to "disable" the caliper completely until I get a new one in?

good gawd... you are dangerous... anyways, you are more than likely gonna have to replace the rotor as well as the caliper now, thats what the grinding proly is... when you were in there getting the pads out, why didnt you just replace the caliper? unless it waas a matter of money, you shoulda just changed it.

 

[Vi3tB0i7o7]

wat is the difference in just a caliper and a loaded one? im looking to get a set

 

[FlatRate]

I have a question I hope someone can get to pretty quickly -


My rear driver's side caliper is junk. I need to replace it but I can't for another few days, and I need to drive the car. We simply took the pads out, thinking that the brakes wouldn't engage without them, but I'm getting some crazy metal-on-metal squealing and all kinds of noise back there.

So my question is - is there an easy way to "disable" the caliper completely until I get a new one in?


The piston probably poped out by this time. You might as well just get a rebuilt one since the piston is fyried up already. No pads does not mean it will not be disabled.

Quote: Vi3tB0i7o7 on Feb/19/06 wat is the difference in just a caliper and a loaded one? im looking to get a set

Loaded mean it comes with pads. Non-loaded or calipers only means its just the calipers without pads.

 

[Sottilde]

Yeah, luckily I only drove about 40something miles on this. I took it apart - there are some grooves on the rotor but nothing terrible. I put the old pads back in until I can get a hold of a new caliper. It was a bit of a money issue but I see now there's no way around it :S

Thanks.

good gawd... you are dangerous... anyways, you are more than likely gonna have to replace the rotor as well as the caliper now, thats what the grinding proly is... when you were in there getting the pads out, why didnt you just replace the caliper? unless it waas a matter of money, you shoulda just changed it.

 

[Plinko]

I've got this exact problem I think. It seems that whenever I hit a large bump in the road or go through a long set of braking, my rear right caliper doesn't get far enough away from the motor and while I am driving I still hear brake squeaks every few seconds. I got a rotation a week or so ago and noticed it started right after that, and the mechanic said both my rear pads had uneven wear, as in the top was more worn than the bottom or vice versa, couldn't remember. I'm thinking this is a seized caliper but I'm not sure, so all help/experience is appreciated, thanks.

 

[DC2Kid97]

Didnt really mean to bring this thread back from the dead but I figured it would be better than starting a new post. I noticed a squeaking sound coming from one of the wheels on the right side. Its not like a constant screech but when the tires are rotating its like a squeak you can hear every time the tires rotate fully...like squeak squeak squeak squeak...the faster i go the quicker it gets. I also noticed when I apply the brakes or at least put some pressure on them the squeaking goes away. What could this be caused by..old pads, rotors? Even a seized caliper?

 

[FlatRate]

Best bet is to visually inspect the system. Take the wheels off and look to see if anything is rubbing. Make sure the dust shields aren't rubbing and there is nothing there.

Check pads to see if they are on their way out. If they are low, replace them and have your rotors turned if there is still enough thickness left in them. If there is too much run out (difference in thickness in rotor) then swap for new ones.

I usually just get new ones because the cost for turning rotors is about the same for new ones anyways.

But please do the visual inspection first.

 

[Plinko]

Didnt really mean to bring this thread back from the dead but I figured it would be better than starting a new post. I noticed a squeaking sound coming from one of the wheels on the right side. Its not like a constant screech but when the tires are rotating its like a squeak you can hear every time the tires rotate fully...like squeak squeak squeak squeak...the faster i go the quicker it gets. I also noticed when I apply the brakes or at least put some pressure on them the squeaking goes away. What could this be caused by..old pads, rotors? Even a seized caliper?

My car does this too man. Whenever I am driving it will be a squeaking, but when I brake it goes away. When I reverse and brake however, it is a nasty squeal so I think there is something wrong with my pads, probably uneven wear or something, haven't had time to check but will soon.

 

[DC2Kid97]

Best bet is to visually inspect the system. Take the wheels off and look to see if anything is rubbing. Make sure the dust shields aren't rubbing and there is nothing there.

Check pads to see if they are on their way out. If they are low, replace them and have your rotors turned if there is still enough thickness left in them. If there is too much run out (difference in thickness in rotor) then swap for new ones.

I usually just get new ones because the cost for turning rotors is about the same for new ones anyways.

But please do the visual inspection first.

Im at school right now with no jack and no tools but as soon as I get a chance I will do a visual. I was thinking it might be a bent dust shield as well and planned on buying new rotors and pads regardless. Thanks for your reply man.

 

[FlatRate]

You could always use your stock jack and do one side at a time.

 

[Ruff_Neck]

I don't mean to jack your thread but I have a question. When I first got my car the ebrake would only lock up one tire. I tried adjusting it but I was easy to see that either one cable was seized or "actuator" on the caliper was seized. Has anyone had this problem before? Im guesing it is just the cable but I'm not sure. Would this be a big job to fix?

Ohh yeah when the car is jacked up the brakes lock both tires but the ebrake only lockes on up.
Thanks

Man mine does this too!! I already inspected it, and for sure it's the e-brake "actuator" on the rear caliper. I can't even move it to manualy engage the brakes. Would I have to replace the whole caliper?