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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok fellas I have been reading and comparing articles since my last post about my cam issue. My skunk2 stg2 runs great until V-tec initiates and then it bogs down and I lose speed. I have upgraded my Fuel injectors to RC 440 have a FPR set at 48 psi new spoon ecu red lines at 9G's VAFCII to manage the air and fuel but have yet to get it right. Call me an idiot but I cannot tune that VAFC for shyt. I have yet to feel the joys of Vtec since the cam install. Is it bad install or v-tec solenoid??? I'm beat with this thing. I'm in Italy and there are no Tuning shops to help. Any takers?
 

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Hrrm...are your camseals leaking at all.

I didn't know you could inproperly install them.

MIGHT be an overpressurized seloniod??

B.T.W. put your font back to black please...makes it really hard to read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not leaking at all, motor was built solid. It's just when I hit my Vtec engagment the motors is louder but with no positive effect.

Will change the font. My bad
 

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when you say you have a spoon ecu do you mean one of those eBay 'Spoon' chips? if so then take that out right away and just tune with the VAFC. stock GSR aren't even meant to rev up to 9K. what else have you done to the head? do you have a dyno that shows your powerband goes all the way up to 9K? for VTEC to kick in you need to make sure that you have the right oil pressure and the car has to be warmed up to an idle temperature. you can check the vtec solenoid filter if you'd like to see if it's maybe dirty or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Like I said before I'm in Italy there are no Dyno shops around. My head was machined by the local BMW mechanic, my head is far from stock, itr valves skunk2 valve springs, springs, skunk retainers...this is all in my profile. I'm not the dumbest guy but I warm my car up before driving and I set my V-tec to engage at 5600g's so there is doubt about actuating, I'm trying to figure out why I bog down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My ecu came from the good fellas at R crew racing up in Nor Cali. They have been suppling me with good parts for a while now. No ebay imitations in this ride!
 

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try turning your fuel down in small amounts at a time in your vtec rang 440cc maybe to much fuel for what your running. saying 450cc will cover 300whp on turbo apps. check your settings and connections on the vafc .pm me with results if you dont mind.
 

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You at least need a wideband to make these kinds of changes. A car can bog because of being too lean or too rich, its impossible to say which you are at especially with an off the shelf tune.
 

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It's pretty hard to tune a V-AFC by the seat of your pants, aka "butt dyno". Take it to a reputable tuner who has a dynamometer. If you can't find one in Italy, at least buy yourself a good wideband oxygen sensor. The stock sensor sucks, it really only knows 3 values: rich, lean, and stoich.
 

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The VAFC needs to be tuned with a wideband 02 sensor. Your fuel map is way off. You can buy a MOTEC wideband 02 sensor, hook it up yourself and get a datalogging program like Neptune or Hondata on your computer... $$$$... Cheaper to go to a tuner in another country...

NEEDS to be tuned for all that headwork.
 

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440's are too big for the stock ECU.
310's are max you can run.

hondata.com said:
What are the biggest injectors I can run?

The ECU can be re-calibrated to suit any sized injector (make sure you match injector impedance if you are replacing you injectors). However, injectors take a finite amount of time to open and close, so the bigger injectors tend to be less accurate with their fueling at low durations, such as idle. Much depends on the mechanics of the injector, and how quickly it can open and close. With disk type injectors (such as RC 440cc injectors) you can not tell the difference between stock injectors and injectors which flow twice as much as stock injectors, once the ECU has been reprogrammed for the larger injectors (and there is no difference on the dyno either). With race engines we have run injectors up to 4 times the size of the stock injectors.

a piggyback won't cut it. You need a complete reflash since your's still working off the stock VTEC base maps callibrated for 240's. on 440's, you're way over the calibration and no matter what you do to the lean down by fooling the MAP sensor, you've still got the problem of the VTEC ignition base maps running off the wrong advance as you move the MAP sensor voltage around.
 
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