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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll give 50 bucks to the person who solves my running rich problem, and another 50 bucks to this website if somebody solves my G3 running rich problem, this is what I've done so far:
-replaced Spark plugs with NGK GSR model plugs, plugs read ok (no oil being burnt, no overheating or excess carbon on them)
-replaced Spark plug wires (though the resistance was ok end to end)
-replaced PCV Valve (though the original was rattling which is what we want, i didnt have to change it)
-replaced O2 sensor (brand new Bosch O2 in now, though original generated correct 0-1Volts
-replaced MAP sensor (checked correct voltage output, works perfect under vacumn etc., original worked well also anyway)
-timing set at different values (currently I set it at 18degrees advance)
-had the car dyno tuned (I have a Apex V-AFC)
-installed Fuel pressure regulator and guage (reads 40 PSI lowest setting for GSR)
-changed the ECU
-had fuel injectors serviced
-stock cat, unmodified (except O2 sensor)
-taken to mechanic, told me to replace things (dist. rotor/cap, o2 sensor, waste of money)
-new ground cable (installed well, very good contact)

I've reset the car after every modification I've made.
I'm monitoring the exhaust the whole time, and it always smells like gas, and the back of my car is covered in black gas spray kindof carbon.

Ask me any questions, I'll answer, and give me any instructions, if I follow them and it works, I hold to my word,I'll pay you and the site.
 

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Do you have leaky fuel injectors? What kind of cat. converter are you running? When you get it tuned on the dyno are they using a wideband O2 sensor? Who is doing the tuning? Do they know how to properly tune an integra with a VAFC? At which point is the car running rich, at idle, partial throttle, or WOT?
 

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Edited more questions for you above.

Is you cat in good working order?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How can I tell if my cat is in good working order?
I should mention that my car passed the ontario Emissions Test somehow magically. (high hydrocarbon value though)
Its a stock cat thats never been changed or modified in any way.
The thing is I can smell gas out the exhaust.
I took it to a mechanic and they told me to replace a bunch of things, so i did, and it was a waste of money.
I'm distrusting of mechanics in this area as well.
 

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texinteg on Apr/03/04 said:
Do you have leaky fuel injectors? What kind of cat. converter are you running? When you get it tuned on the dyno are they using a wideband O2 sensor? Who is doing the tuning? Do they know how to properly tune an integra with a VAFC? At which point is the car running rich, at idle, partial throttle, or WOT?
I thought the VAFC could only lean out the fuel curve? Anyway- check the wiring for the VAFC. See if all the wires are all connected. Even if you cut all the wires from the VAFC the car would start- run extremely rich- and top out at ~4200 rpm. Perhaps one or more of your your wiring is faulty. If the MAP sensor wire is not connected won't the car run rich?
 

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I have this same exact problem. My gsr is almost stock as far as the engine goes too. It had nitrous on it from the previous owner and Im sure the valve seals are gone. Done a lot of the same stuff still havnt figured it out yet. Thinking mabe has something to do with the valve train????
 

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The stock cat - you say it has everything unmodified except the o2 sensor? Well the a/f sensor usually (in my case - my autometer a/f mixture gauge) is tapped off of the o2 sensor. If you modified your o2 you simply might wanna get a higher flowing cat, or check the stock cat for build up, because maybe the o2 sensor is just being thrown off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't modify the O2 sensor, just replaced it with a new one basically. I removed the A/F gauge becuase I thought it wasn't being grounded properly and possibly causing problems.

If the stock cat has buildup, it would throw off the O2 sensor? Is there a way I can tell this prior to replacing the cat?

I replaced the ground wire as well (the engine ground), I sanded the connections down to metal, and made sure there was good contact there. :)
 

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running rich when? at what rpm range?

basics:

clean your air filter, IACV, and TB.

drill a pressure relief hole in your stock FPR and lower the FP by another 1-2 psi vacuum line off.

gap your #7 heat range NGK's to 42 thousandths in.

check the connections to the MAP sensor, TPS, and primary (front O2 sensor) from the sensor to the ECU pin.
check the ECU pins.


advance your ignition timing to 18 degrees BTDC.

check your EVAP hoses for leaks.

reset the ECU after doing all of these.

throw in a bottle of Regane fuel injector cleaner into your tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Timing was already advanced to 18BTDC
I cleaned the K&N air filter a week ago properly (with the recharge kit).
I'm running rich at idle (roughly 750rpm) for sure, I'm not sure about other RPM's. Even when I first start the car up its running rich (at around 1500rpm), and after warm up when rpm drops down to 750.

Where do I drill this hole on my FPR?
I'll do the rest of the things you just suggested MD and see how it goes....
 

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if you're running an ITR intake cam, the VTEC should be at least at 5200 rpm and the fuel trimmed accordingly from 4400 to the new VTEC switch point but your idle shouldn't be any different since the nonVTEC lobes are identical to the stock cam. If the idle is rich open up your TB idle adjust to let in more air at idle for the vacuum pulled. You should advance the intake cam gear to get more cranking pressure and a cleaner burn.

the valve relief trick is shown over at the Endyn website in their articles.
 

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You dont have to offer money to get help here

If someone is able to assist you they will, thats what its all about, shared knowledge.

Sorry I personally cannot help, but good luck on your search for an answer.

- Josh
 

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Does the cars coolant temperature run low or take a long time to warm up? Does the radiator cooling fan come on too early?

If there is a problem with your engine coolant temperature sensor, this could cause your engine to run rich.

Have you run a compression check? Perhaps a valve isn't sealing.

Have you checked your valve lash? Perhaps an intake valve isn't opening/closing properly.

Have you hooked up a digital voltmeter to the O2 narrow band output? Does the O2 sensor say lean, even though clearly the mixture is rich. I know you replaced it but maybe there's a problem in the wiring somewhere.

Have you removed the AFC to rule out the possibility of a wiring issue cauing incorrect sensor readings?
 

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Backaddr- sorry to get off topic a little but my engine run mad cold. takes forever to show warm but I aways get really warm air fast. how would I go about changing the engine coolant temperature sensor?


as for the adding any of my own assistance. sorry everyones covered what I thought could help. Good luck.
 

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Oblivion, I'll send ya a PM.
 
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