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Discussion Starter #541 (Edited)
So I thought I would share some pics/instructions on these Pedal Pad things:





As a few people mention above, the Clutch Pedal Assembly is simple to yank out of the car... i'd say the lines with "*" are optional, but they sure make this easier !!

* Remove the lower dash panel on the driver side

* Remove the two 10mm nuts securing the fuse block in place (gives more room to work with since you can push the fuse block out of the way

* Remove the two 10mm nuts securing the silver module to the left of the pedal in place. this makes it easier to get to the left 12mm holding the CMC in place

- Remove the two 12mm nuts that hold the Clutch Master Cylinder in place

- Remove the cotter pin holding the CMC piston to the pedal and then remove the center pin

- Remove the white plug from the lower clutch switch (this is what tells the cruise control the clutch is in or out)

* Unscrew and remove the plunger for the lower clutch switch

- Unplug the green plug from the upper clutch plunger (this tells the car it's OK to start)

- Remove the 12mm that is securing the top of the pedal assembly that points straight up


The whole damn thing will easily come out... here's it out on my work table with descriptions of all the locations.... at the bottom is the temp fix nut and bolt removed for the right part:)




My camera was having a hard time focusing in on what I wanted to focus on... but circled is where that Upper Clutch plunger meets the rotating pedal itself... with it missing, the car has no way of knowing that "OK, the clutch is pushed in, go ahead and allow start".... this had shattered and led to to this i talked about on the last page




And with the "Pedal Pad" put into place, now the clutch can give "all good" to the car when starting




While I was busy doing this, I also replaced the nut/bolt I had on the brake pedal, which also had broken in the past... so now all three plungers between the two pedals have new pads in place....


Diagram that may help others figure out where to look for these parts:

 

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Nice write up Stephen, more step by step pictures would have helped but good enough. Im defiantly gonna use this as a reference if I decide to replace the clutch assembly after someone broke into my car and bent the pedal to the side.. :( Your car defiantly still has it man, after being in the garage for a while she's still looking clean. Just to ask what does the window track seal do? does it help it slide up easier? cause my windows go up pretty slow maybe that will be the fix.. any who good job with the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #545
there's nothing to really "picture"... the bolts i listed out are very easy to see/find/remove (for instance, if you know what a fusebox is, it's impossible to miss what two bolts i spoke of above), no hidden tricks or problems
 

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Awesome post. Let me as though, would the car still start and shift even with this happening? Because it would explain a lot and tell me what I need to fix. Thanks for the guide here. Love your car. It is fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #547
As previously pointed out: that plunger switch tells the car "i'm engaged, so let the car start".... think of it like sitting in your car, foot off all the pedals, and turning the key to "Start".... nothing is going to happen without the clutch pedal pushed in and that plunger sending that signal that it is so...

it has absolutely nothing to do with actually shifting, which is a total mechanical process
 

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Discussion Starter #548
So did some minor things today....

Water damage absolutely destroyed my birchwood speaker mounts, the speakers are gone as well thanks to the humidity




So i slipped in some Kicker 6.5's instead... I used some gasket sealer in a tube to fill in the gaps left from cutting the door for the 6x8.... the tweeters from the 6x8 set are still fine, so i just let those be




All this time, I never had a true trim ring on the radio, so there was some gaps showing as well as the side of the radio cage




I was cleaning out some boxes of various stuff i had and ran across a trim ring, so i trimmed it down and stuck it on there..... it's not exactly "perfect", but it's definitely an improvement




Starting to work on the hatch area now, i've got some trim panels to put together for all that
 

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Discussion Starter #552
It's not actual water that is just the issue, its the humidity in the air also takes its toll... i used the plastic grills, cutting away the bars that went across, and used those as mounts, the water/moisture has zero chance to warp and destroy them
 

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MorningZ on Jan/02/10 said:
here's a pic of the car as she sits right now




Time to get to work !
give those headlights and corners a quick polish before you put her away. i love how un-chipped and alligned the front end looks. im buying a new bumper for mine soon and possibly painting the lip and changing some things up. purple cars can impress
 

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Ahh florida and moisture...

Thats what my crossovers I mounted inside my doors (stupid idea looking back on it now) looked like after 4-5 years. When I opened one of them, one of the capacitors inside actually fell out.. Guess the rust had eaten through its contacts completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #557
I've had a DEI 530T window module in my driver's door since I got it 4.5 years ago, it's still all good, knock on wood



So alright, here's some more pics from yesterday.... unfortunately I ran out of sunlight, so I'll have to wrap up next weekend....

Here's my hatch area when I cleaned it out (i know i know, iiiickk)... side note, this box is now 7 years old! it's the same one I used for the article except when I changed the top piece to go from 12" woof to 15"




So I wanted to take some more 3/4" MDF and make a cover panel for it.... so started by using cardboard to "trace" the curves of the inside panel... this takes a while as its: trim a little off, check, trim a little more off, check, etc etc etc






Next transferred that line to a piece of 3/4" inch MDF (to note: the 2 pics above are the driver side, below is the passenger side)




once I cut, checked and trimmed that piece so it matched the side panel, i then measured out where the right side of the woofer and amps would be and cut that part out






and voila, right side = done




Followed a similar procedure for the driver side, and this is where I stand right now..... I still have some trimming down to do so it's all even.... then want to incorporate a door/storage-area on each side, and then of course carpet it (vinyl could be another choice, but carpet takes more abuse, which is good for throwing wheels and tools back there)




Hopefully I'll finish this up this coming weekend
 

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Very nice Steve! Are you going to do anything aout the little gaps on the outsides or are you going to turn those into the storage areas?
 

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Sweet Stephen when you carpet the wood you can cut the carpet around the trim pieces so it would fill the empty areas and maybe put some support on it later on if it sags. Also how do you like those kickers?
 
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