Push-lok connectors HATE being moved. Ugh. It's worse for pneumatics at 150PSI.
You may want to look into hard-mounting the tank in the trunk.
And, after seeing a few really bad things from my racing and HPDE friends on FB, I'd strongly recommend you spend some money on a fire system if you're going to carry a gallon of methanol in the passenger compartment that gets pressurized and injected in the engine bay. 2 at the engine, one at your feet, and one at the methanol tank. Not trying to be Chicken Little, but I think you can appreciate the risk.
So few other issues to add to fix, one that I forgot about from last week, one that finally has me fed up as of yesterday:
- While under my car last week at Dragon, I noticed that the Z-10 traction bar is rubbing/ruining the A/C line that runs above it. Gotta find a way to separate the two
- Yesterday I put 4.5 gallons of gas into the tank, the fuel gauge only went up to 1.4 tank, umm yeah, my car doesn't have an 18 gallon tank. Found this topic on diagnosing, hopefully it's something I can clean up/smooth out, otherwise it'll be $66 for a new sending unit
My gas gauge reads fine for the top 1/3, then drops slower than it should to the bottom 1/3, then it drops like a rock to E. Then it sits with the needle below E for 30-50mi before the reminder light comes on.
I always figured the gauges were just wonky and lived with it.
I'm pretty sure is just a goofy shaped tank.
I was close to empty the other day, put 10 bucks in it and it went to nearly half.
Goofy shaped tank + Floater sending unit location = strange reading.
Premium is so rare where I live, I fill up on nearly an every-other day basis.
Looking at your installation photo, I am concerned that you might have limited motion when the trailer pivots toward the passenger side of the truck, compressing the friction unit. The photo below, from the installation video, appears to show the unit extended more with the trailer in line with the truck. In your photo, it doesn't look like it is extended as far and could limit trailer motion.
Yeah, I'm aware it should maybe do back further to expose more travel, but I'm about as far back as I can go on my setup for various reasons.... this'll work fine I just can't make super sharp right turns, which I've been avoiding when towing anyways
If you really want to make it work right, a couple of steel triangles and a square plate would make a nice little bump-out on the right side of the trailer triangle and give you the extension and clearance you need.
That said, it would also compromise right turn radius with the damper disconnected, so it's a tossup if it's worth it.