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Things I've learned about supercharging, in this last year, thanks to this log:

1. Even a complete kit will require the purchase of replacement parts
2. Skip straight to the B20 pulley
3. Plan to cool the charge
4. Get a heavy duty alternator
5. Expect to replace pulleys/tensioners
6. Get oil cooler

Am I missing anything?
 

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--> 4. Get a heavy duty alternator

I believe my issue had more to do with age, heat, heavy load (stereo system) and *not* to do with the SC


--> 5. Expect to replace pulleys/tensioners

Not sure this would fall under necessity...



--> 6. Get oil cooler

My oil temp issues have nada to do with the SC and more to do with towing my g/f's motorcycle
 

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Yeah, the cooler plates usually have two AUX ports. That's enough for the gauges. It would replace his gloshift plate in that instance.

But then you gotta buy a thermostat AND hose AND a cooler. It's quite a bit of hardware honestly.
I'm not following what the "thermostat AND hose AND a cooler" part is about... that for an oil cooler in general or just what Dan would need?
 

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If you got a sandwich plate without the oil thermostat in it (like I did) you gotta buy an external oil thermostat and plumb it in line with the hose (thing that was leaking on mine last year @ the dragon that I fixed).

If you get a plate WITH the oil thermostat built in you have to just run hose to the cooler (easier, less plumbing) but you'll have to stack plates as the plates with thermostats built in dont have aux ports for your gauges.

Make sense? It depends on what you buy. If I were to do it over again I'd get the plate with the oil thermostat built in so there would be less work plumbing and less chances for leaking and stack it right on top of the existing glowshift one you've got down there. Then run your two hoses to your new oil cooler and you're done. EZPZ.
 

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If you got a sandwich plate without the oil thermostat in it (like I did) you gotta buy an external oil thermostat and plumb it in line with the hose (thing that was leaking on mine last year @ the dragon that I fixed)
any reason why the *vast* majority of "oil cooler kits" i have seen so far do not include, or even mention the need for, any sort of thermostat?
 

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You will want a thermostat... unless you never get out of a warm climate. Without a thermostat, you can actually cool your oil too much and have detrimental effects.

Pegasus Racing sells oil thermostat kits, remote filter kits, and all the different hose/fitting options you can think of. I will eventually be redoing mine w/ SS braided hose and aeroquip fittings.

I think my goal for oil temps would be between 185F and 200F even in the worst of conditions, hence my taking the track car down again to install a large enough radiator. I may also put a fan on the oil cooler and see how this combo does on track.

Oil is the lifeblood of your car. It's how pistons get cracked and bearings get spun. High oil temps are not to be trifled with unless you can afford UNPLANNED down time.

I would recommend getting a B&M style kit since they're on the cheaper side and any hose/fittings you use w/ that can be used w/ a larger core if you end up needing one.
 

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I think my goal for oil temps would be between 185F and 200F even in the worst of conditions
Even just rolling around town (no boost, no towing, no load) my oil temp is around 210-220 depending on how hot outside it is
 

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gotcha... yeah i remember when dan and i were going to CMP for Expo, my oil temps hit 220 just cruising on the highway. I'd be interesting in knowing how much additional load the SC puts on the motor, even at idle. It could just be that the engine is working exponentially harder than it did before as the RPM increase.
 

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So the car made it to Fontana

Outside temp DEFINITELY is a factor as NC's mid-80 degree temps resulted in oil temps 200-210 even towing the bike *except* when going up two huge mountains on I-26 towards Asheville

We can't check into our cabin yet and I'm ITCHIN' to unload the car, arrggghhh
 
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