Team Integra Forums banner

1261 - 1280 of 1294 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,264
Can't wait to see some vids, if you're planning on posting any
I'm sure I will, although....I haven't even pulled her out for Spring, yet. Not sure when I feel like bringing it home. Maybe next month or so. There may be small things that I want to do yet, before it sees road time for 2016.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,268
Update: 2016 Year in Review

Oh, boy. Where to begin....

Last we left off, my engine was running well. Really well. Was making a healthy 780whp (although I was keeping it on low boost at a streetable 515whp).

Two weeks later I was doing a acceleration pull getting on the highway, and after shifting, the engine shut-off. I pulled off to the side of the road, and getting it to re-start was almost impossible...to the point of draining my battery. Called my dad who lived just a few miles from home, for a jump start. The car finally started, but had a terrible, terrible noise. The dreaded rod-knock.

Not good. Not good at all.

I could keep it running, but had to give it some throttle when coming to a stop. Immediately drove the vehicle back to the shop (which wasn't far away either). It was going back in their showroom for the Winter anyways, and I was only a few weeks of doing that. So, I dropped it off, and told them to take a look at it when they got a chance. The next day I believe, I got a text from them stating that they had the engine pulled and torn down. They confirmed to me that I had an oil pump failure. Keep in mind that this was a brand-new, OEM oil pump from the local Acura dealership.

Upon inspection of the oil pump, it was found that the relief valve in the pump was stuck. What does this mean? Basically, the engine had enough oil pressure to not illuminate the "low oil pressure warning light". If I'm not mistaken, that light only illuminates when oil pressure is below 10-12psi. Enough pressure to keep the light from coming on, but definitely, definitely not enough for revving to high RPM's (or low RPM's for that matter). Had I had an oil pressure gauge in the vehicle, I would've been able to notice this MUCH sooner than later, and could've saved the engine. My mistake. Lesson learned. Without an oil pressure gauge, there was no indication that anything was wrong with the motor. It ran perfect. The pump could've been like that from the beginning, or the day of failure. Hard to say.

Since having the vehicle back for only 2-weeks or so, the shop (Innovative MotorWorks in Carlisle, PA) communicated that they were covering the engine failure under their warranty, even though the oil pump failure was not their fault. This engine was NOT cheap for me by any means, so hearing this was a huge weight lifted off my shoulders. This goes to show the customer service that the company has provided to me for many years. Not many other shops would've done this. In fact, I know of a few local shops in the surrounding area that would've told me to go pound sand.

So, what kind of carnage did I have? Everything for the most part. Coating on the side of the pistons were worn down. We had the connecting rods sent back to Carrillo for them to examine them. They communicated back to us that the rods looked good, but they ended up sending new replacements anyways (bonus). New Wiesco pistons were ordered, but we up'd the compression a little bit this time. They're at 10.7:1 currently. Up from 9.8:1. Not really an issue since I use E85 and it's readily available in my area at the local gas stations. Block was sent out to the machine shop and had the Benson sleeves bored out from 84mm, to 84.5mm. Everything in the cylinder head seemed to survive. Cams were good, but decided with a small upgrade to Skunk2's Pro 1's.

Ordered up a new OEM oil pump and examined it before installation. How ironic. Relief valve was sticking in this new one! I'd say Honda is shipping out some oil pumps that are not up to standard, unfortunately. However, it's a easy as taking the bolt out, spring, and taking a scotch-brite pad to the bore. After confirming the valve moves freely, the engine was re-assembled.

The result?

If you recall, the dyno numbers were:

Before: 780whp/480wtq @ 34 psi

After: 770/whp/500wtq @ 31 psi


Take notice to the HP down by 10. This time around, I shut-the dyno down. This specific dyno has a max rating of 500wtq. Not revving it out as much kept the torque down a bit, being able to finish the tune. Ultimately, it's making more power, at a less PSI. This is due to the increase of compression, and .5mm more bore.

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,269
To continue where I left off, over the Summer (may have been Spring), I knew I needed new tires. My existing tires still had 6/32" of tread left, but the tires were purchased new in 2006. Just goes to show how little miles had been put on them and the vehicle. Some dry-rot was starting to show, and those weren't going to cut it with the power levels that I'm at currently.

Which tires to buy?

Anyone with this type of power level knows that traction is an issue. Especially with a wrong-wheel drive vehicle. Upon research and advice from others, I came to the conclusion that only Toyo's R888 would work for my application as a decent street tire. Only problem is, the size that I wanted would be too big on my current 16" Rota Circuit 10 wheel. I wanted something that would look good, but didn't feel like throwing down thousands for a Volk, or another type of wheel (although, I really like Volks).

I ended up finding a set of OEM Type R replica wheels, that were 15x7 in size, with a 4x100 pattern. Something like this was exactly what I was looking for.





Tires delivered. Size I chose is 225/50/15












They're meaty, to say the least. I found after attempting to install that the back of the front wheels wanted to hit the Wilwood calipers. Ended up purchasing a $25 set of 5mm wheel spacers for the front. They fit on the hub perfectly for centering.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,270
We've been having some really unseasonably warm weather here in PA. For a few days, 70-75deg. Because of this, I got the 'Teg out of storage and decided to put some mileage on her. It's been running pretty well, lately.

Only other modification that I've done is UK taillights. Sourced these from a dude in the UK. Shipping only took 2 or so days, which was surprising.





Some other shots from this past weekend:







 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,275
Western PA, about 30 minutes East of Pittsburgh.
Gotcha. In right outside of Harrisburg. It was 75 or so Friday, and mid-60's during the day on Saturday. Then, a band of thunder storms came through around mid-afternoon, and temps dropped to mid-40's afterwards. We're getting another warm up this week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
How are those 888's treating you? You able to hook up real good with those? Surprised you went with 225's thought the widest you could go on a 7 inch rim was 205.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,277
How are those 888's treating you? You able to hook up real good with those? Surprised you went with 225's thought the widest you could go on a 7 inch rim was 205.
The 888's are treating me great! Best tire I've ever owned. Plenty of traction where outside ambient temps are 60+ or so.

Yeah, I went pretty wide on these things front & rear. I purchased a fender roller for $48, and used it to roll the inside rear fender lip, up....to help with clearance. They were rubbing before I rubbed them. Now, they're great I even have 5mm wheel spacers up front. The fronts don't rub at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,818 Posts
Wow, you came a long way since the last time I saw it at Tuner Evolution at the Toyota Arena in York PA.

You almost sporting my wheels, haha
 
1261 - 1280 of 1294 Posts
Top