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Discussion Starter #141
No real significant updates. I got curious the other day, as the car was sluggish to start, and did a parasitic draw diagnostic... was roughly 0.5A when the alarm was armed. Started pulling fuses, and noticed that the relay tied into my domelight supervision circuit was constantly drawing 0.25A, not sure why, replacing the relay didn't hep, and light / output always functioned like it should've. Disconnected that whole 'circuit', returning it to stock, and am now saving myself that draw.

Separately, while I was "in there", I looped my trunk trigger and door triggers together... I was having a problem that didn't pop up until I tied in all the recent alarm additions, that strange crap happened when I opened my trunk (as had other sensors and stuff tied into the instant trigger input)... these seem to be fixed for now.

Here's a picture from last week, right before I trailered the bike to SC. Its a Kendon Stand-up trailer, held the bike well, towed awesome, Acura didn't complain at all. Was funny, literally every-time I stopped, had someone ask me about either the bike, the trailer, or the combination of Integra + towing a bike.

 

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Discussion Starter #142
Picked up an Apexi WS2 Cat Back from a Craigslist find today for $100... it's from a 96-00 Civic, so the axle back isn't quite the same, but looks like the muffler / hangers should be good to go. I already have invested quite a bit in the header - resonator - piping, and was just missing the muffler component. I currently have a 08 Si muffler on there, just hacked into place to buy me some time. Hopefully this weekend I can get it polished back up, and welded on for good to the existing axle back piping that I have.

And just got word of my annual bonus check is coming this week, so looking to finally get my new brakes en route as of Friday... shooting to do master cylinder + booster + stainless lines + the big brake upgrade on all four. One of my rears is starting to stick just a hair, and I've had the brakes starting to "bleed down" at stop lights (not losing any fluid), so figure with 250k quickly approaching, its time to do them all.

Hopefully more updates in the coming week or two :)
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Parts ordered...
  • Techna-Fit Brake Lines (AC-1110-CLR), 4 Line Kit
  • 2 Liters, ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid
  • Front ProParts Brake Kit Upgrade (Centric Premium Rotors w/ Stoptech Performance Brake Pads)
  • Rear ProParts Brake Kit Upgrade (Centric Premium Rotors w/ Stoptech Performance Brake Pads)
  • Cardone Brake Booster
  • Cardone Master Cylinder
Have on hand...
  • New Moog Rear wheel bearing / hub assemblies
  • Lots of beer
While I am there, what else ought I consider doing? Any bolts / washers / seals or anything I should do since I'm taking the complete braking system apart? Planning to work on it the week of September 29, so have some time to get additional parts in if needed.
 

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IF POSSIBLE (and you haven't already), order/change-to the Type-R brake line kit, it gives you an extra inch of slack to work with and makes all the difference !
 

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Discussion Starter #147
IF POSSIBLE (and you haven't already), order/change-to the Type-R brake line kit, it gives you an extra inch of slack to work with and makes all the difference !
Just shot ProParts an email, to see if they'll simply swap them out, as it looks like they're the same price. I didn't realize it made a difference, but see a different part number now that you mention it... AC-1120-CLR (Type-R)... AC-1110-CLR (GSR).

Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Discussion Starter #150
I'd love to hear a short sound clip with your exhaust setup. I've got a WS2 from a civic in my garage, waiting for the rest of the pipes.
I'll try to snag one later on, need to get a few things around the house wrapped up today too. Hope to atleast get the car a quick wash, as it is embarrassingly dirty at the moment.

Certainly has a nice low, deep tone at idle when you're behind the car, with absolutely no drone inside the car. Honestly sounds quieter now than it did with the 07 Si muffler on it. My setup now is as follows...

Megan racing 4-1 one-piece header, 2 1/2" out
Short flex pipe
Magnaflow universal Cat, 2 1/2"
2 1/2" exhaust pipe all the way back, with a Magnaflow resonator
Apexi WS2 Muffler (so reduced down to 2 1/4 at the end)
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Parts are trickling in. Got the first coat of paint on the brake booster Saturday. Also just ordered a Mishimoto aluminum fan shroud kit, as both stock fans were getting quite noisy in very sporadic intervals, and I intend to throw in an aluminum radiator at some point. Hopefully by Saturday everything will be in and I can get everything swapped :)


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Discussion Starter #153
Lots of progress over the weekend...
Rear hub / bearing assemblies replaced
New calipers & lines mounted
Brake Booster & Master Cylinder mounted
Radiator Shroud Replaced

I'm having a helluva time getting the system bled. Have a few questions for the group...
1) I did bench bleed the new master cylinder prior to install.
2) Using Type-R calipers all the way around, is it normal to have the bleeder "down"? I don't see where its possible to have the rears swapped to the "wrong" side with how the e-brake assembly is.
3) I let it gravity bleed for a few hours this evening, with the calipers "dis-mounted", hanging via wire ties so the bleeder screw is above the fluid inlet. I will see how it looks tomorrow... ran out of steam (and had a bit much bourbon) to keep screwing with it tonight. I closed everything off before I shut the garage.
4) One thing I noticed earlier... before I re-raised the car and took the calipers off. With the car not running, we eventually got the brakes "close". As soon as I'd start the car, I got absolutely no resistance in the pedal at all. I'm hoping this is due to air still in the lines? I hope like hell that the new booster isn't bad, as that was a serious pain to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
I'm at a loss, and my neighbors are convinced I got a bum reman brake booster :icon_twisted:

Gravity bled the system for a good duration of the day today, with the calipers 'inverted' so the bleeder valve is above the brake line.

Re-pressure-bled the system again tonight, saw a few pockets of air, but nothing like I saw yesterday.

Brake pedal feels firm with the car off. As soon as you start it, its like the booster has absolutely no diaphragm, and all pedal resistance goes away as soon as vacuum is applied. I verified no leak in the vacuum hose to the booster.

Out of patience for tonight... not looking to pulling it and waiting on a replacement, just to have to start this whole friggin process over.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Booster back off the car, another reman should be waiting on me at Advance in the morning. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I can have it back on its own four wheels. Still fuming doing that much work over the weekend and "this" had to be the part to flake out on me.

Am I the only one struggling with reman parts lately? Wasn't until my 3rd alternator in 4 weeks until I got one that held. Current brake booster was bad out of the box. And it looks like the clutch master cylinder I just put on within the last year or so is starting to leak (at the back of the pedal)... I guess nature of the beast?


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I generally have had good luck with reman parts.... alternator for truck, ac parts for another car in the house... all worked without probs (all the reman stuff i buy is generally from rockauto)
 

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I have had horrible luck with "reman" stuff, or anything from advance/autozone lately. My OEM IAT sensor finally bit the dust. I replaced it was a dura last (auto zone) replacement. I have been through 3 in the past 6 months.. None of them seem to last more than a few thousand miles.

Axles? See my log thread. Horrible issues. The current ones are holding fine in the car now but I went threw multiple sets in only a year.

I recently put a clutch master and slave cylinder in my girlfriends miata, they are leaking already not 2k miles later.

I have about lost all faith in auto parts stores parts. Even the rotors I have been getting (lowest cost option at advance) have been warping If you so much as look at them wrong, this is all
Street driving as well, no track or autox
Lately.

My summary? Somewhere along the way all this Chinese knockoff crap we try to avoid on ebay, has infiltrated the auto parts store's sources. Even only 5 years ago, the parts quality was so much better from these stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Axles, that was another issue for me too, took a third try on one to get one to work... Sigh... Just pisses me off saving a dime doing the labor myself to have to go through multiple iterations of "not easy" part swaps... End of rant

Here's hoping I can get it driveable tonight :)


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