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So you just replaced the motors and "serviced" the regulators? This was sort of my game plan when i get around to doing mine.

How are you going to shave the door mouldings? I was a little hesitant when i did mine, mainly because i hadnt seen a sedan like that yet, but i am glad that i did.


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Discussion Starter #462
So you just replaced the motors and "serviced" the regulators? This was sort of my game plan when i get around to doing mine.

How are you going to shave the door mouldings? I was a little hesitant when i did mine, mainly because i hadnt seen a sedan like that yet, but i am glad that i did.

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Spot on with the motors and regulators. I used Dorman replacements for the motors, which fit fine, just had to tweak the location of the zip-tied grommet for the wire lead a bit to get everything to fit right. I wasn't having too many problems on the passenger side. The drivers side I think cleaning the regulator, adjusting the one "slide" bolt for the regulator mount, and getting the proper channel guide in made just as much of a difference as replacing the motor itself.

Door moldings... I cut some small squares out of some thin sheet metal I picked up at Lowes... am going to use a metal epoxy to glue the squares to the door... Bondo 901 Plastic Metal to fill the majority of the gap, finished off with a few skim coats of Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot putty to smooth everything over... finished with a temporary coat of Color Match spray paint to cover the outside.

For the inside, once the glue sets, I'm going to spray each square with some sort of spray paint (I have all kinds of extra crap laying around, behind the door panel doesn't have to be pretty), and then they'll get covered with a layer of Peel & Seal (using it as a cheap sound deadener as I have in other areas of the car).

I'm loosely following the thread below. I just couldn't justify to myself dropping $100 on the panel bond adhesive / mixing tips / applicator tool for this small of a job that I doubt I'll ever repeat.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/140021-my-inexpensive-diy-shaved-door-moldings.html
 

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Discussion Starter #463
Was able to work on the car between Friday and Saturday to get the "inner door" finished up. Started off by effectively gluing sheet metal squares over the side molding holes from the inside of the door. I picked up a small sheet of metal from Lowes for close to $6, and didn't use half of it. Once those set over night, I sprayed the inside of each square with some gray paint I had laying around. It's ugly, but it's inside the door, and covered up, so who cares?

Once the paint dried, I then applied two lengths of Peel & Seal the width of the door. The first length I ran so the top of the material was right at the bottom of the lower door brace, effectively covering the majority of the lower door skin. The second length I ran so the top of the material was right at the bottom of the tubular door brace / frame, which ended up over lapping the lower door brace and just barely over lapped the first run of material (picture may describe it a little bit).

I then patch worked in varying cuts to cover the majority of the inner door panel. I wasn't aiming for perfection, but wanted to cut out some of the buzzing and rattling from the door itself... mission accomplished.

I previously posted up the modified speaker brackets. These ended up being about 1/8" too deep (sticking the speaker too far out from the door), preventing the door panel from snapping in place. I ended up abandoning the stock mount, and used just the pioneer adapter ring, with a thick layer of silicone behind it, mounted to the door with two self tapping screws.

I had no problem getting the tweeters to mount inside the stock locations behind the stock tweeter grill, and mounted the cross over to the door (behind the door panel), just below the metal support for the "door close handle" that sticks out from the door (didn't get a picture of the finalized assembly before I put the panels back on). I also have been sitting on some "new" mirror covers (the triangle pieces that cover the mirror mounts)... my old ones had the tabs broken off, and had been holding off on replacing until I was "done" with the doors.

Interior door project = complete







 

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Discussion Starter #464
Took the day off Monday to tend to the outer door. Started off with a round of a Bondo Plastic Metal to fill in the majority of the gap. Once that was cured, and sanded, and wiped down, did two rounds with Bondo Spot / Glazing putty to smooth it over. Once everything was flushed, masked it off, sanded, and primer. Let the primer cure for an hour, hit that with 800 grit, and then onto the DupliColor Color Match paint.

It's far from perfect, but I think this being my first real project anywhere close to body work related, it turned out pretty damn good. There is a low spot or two that will need to be skim coated again, that really didn't show up to the eye until the paint was dry. They're not glaringly obvious, but I know they are there. I'll tend to them once I get the rest of the dings / dents smoothed over when prepping the rest of the car for paint.

The color match isn't perfect, but it's close enough to not be an eye sore.

I'll tend to the rear moldings "here soon". I just have half a dozen other projects, and am trying to prioritize. The front moldings just made sense to me since I was in there fixing the doors. There's a lot of other concern with the rear, as have some rust popping up, and want to deal with it all at once.

Have some other ideas too while I have the interior pulled out for the rear body work, just need to work it all out in my head before I do anything with it.

I'm sure I'll have more updates soon... machine shop called me yesterday, block is ready, so will likely pick that up at some point today.







 
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