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Discussion Starter #441
And the car lives! Got the ICM swapped over last night from a spare distributor, and it fired up at first turn of the screw driver. Idled a little rough for the first few seconds, which I'm attributing to having a little extra fuel in the cylinders or something. As soon as it got over its initial sputter, purred like a kitten, and drove like a champ up to my local Lowes. I now have what I need to re-assemble the rest of the interior, which will be today's project.

im cracking up imagining myself in a situation like that and how furious i would be. at least you were resourceful enough to jack your own car haha.
Yeh, totally, was a mixed bag of pissed off and "wtf do I do now" kinda thing. I was pressed for time, and my nerves were already shot from the drive down (driving a Toyota Yaris on the interstate with two older German women as passengers was enough to earn a drink). Its scary how easy it was to "jack my own car", and did so in a way that I'm completely able to re-assemble with only having to use two new screws I acquired. I'll admit, had to phone a friend to get some better clues on how to do it, but took me maybe half an hour?
 

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Yeah our cars are obviously some of the easiest for thieves. When my hatch was stolen I was expecting to find a damaged ignition cylinder but that was not the case. The only thing that was permanently damaged was the clutch switch. Still confused on that one.


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Discussion Starter #445
Have you thought about installing an anti-theft system with starter disable?http://civic-eg.com/causeforalarm/dc_integra/index.php
I've got quite a in depth Viper Alam and Remote Start system on the car, with a handful of auxiliary sensors, along with some other tidbits I picked up along the way, all part of an install that would be a nightmare to reverse engineer. I took the time and made things even more "hidden" when I did my motor swap and had the dash out to replace the heater core last fall.

When I parked my car in SC, it was locked in a pretty secure garage. I left the hood up, and had plugged an extension cord into the battery tender to guarantee the battery would be fresh when I got back (still fighting some parasitic draw issues). All that said, I didn't arm the alarm when I left it, which turned to be a huge blessing when I needed to hijack my car to get it home.
 

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Thank God for that small miracle! Haha I can't imagine the string of words you wouldve shared had you armed it!


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Discussion Starter #447
Little project I took on this week... Before you guys flame the Optima battery... I work at Advance part time, and my store manager bought a pallet of these Group 35 Optima red tops as "aged inventory". I picked one up for $45, figured I'd find a use for it somewhere if I could get one that cheap.

I've mentioned a few times I'm still fighting some parasitic draw, and my car has always seemed slow to start on cold mornings, so curiosity got the better of me. Took a few measurements, looked at things really hard, and it seemed the Group 35 Optima would come close to fitting in the stock battery location. Given the base layout of the Optima, I ended up trimming a few areas of the "base plate" to get the needed clearance around the firewall port for the AC lines and around the shock tower. I don't think you'd have this wiggle room with other batteries in this group size. The "column" layout for the cells in the battery are smaller than the battery base plate, so you've got close to 1 - 1 1/2 inches of excess plastic to play with in areas on the Optima battery that you probably would not have on others.

I got it dropped in place, now I just need to come up with a better base plate mounting solution (currently is just sitting on top of the factory battery tray), and also need to come up with a better tie down solution (currently just used a piece of a metal bracket I had laying around, drilled a new hole, just enough to hold it in place for now). Here in the next week or so I'll get the base plate in place to hold it, and scoot it a bit more "left" toward the fuse box. Its kind of just sitting where it "fell in place", and is definitely secured by that bracket (it's definitely not going anywhere). I just want to get it looking cleaner than it currently is.

It's got a considerable jump in output from my previous Duralast Gold (from 625 to 910 cranking amps at 32 deg F... from 500 CCA to 720 CCA). Starter definitely seems to be responding better (which, could be my stock battery wasn't putting out what it should have been, haven't tested it yet), volt meter in my dash now seems to be reading more consistent voltage (again, could be something as stupid as my old battery too).

We'll see how the battery holds up, this just turned into one of those projects where I wanted to see if I could make it would work, more so than trying to make things better.



 

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Discussion Starter #449
Out of curiosity, did you get your window regulator situation straightened out?
I probably won't tackle that problem until spring time now. I've got issues in both doors between the window regulators and the door lock actuators / lock mechanisms. It's another one of those car guy "while I am in there" scenarios, but my plan is to address all of the following in one shot while I have the door panels off... All of which will be more tolerable to do outside of the winter months...

  • Repair / Replace door lock mechanisms (not sure if its the rod, the lock itself, or the actuator)
  • Replace window motors, look at and maybe fix window tracks, do the fix for the "window rattle" (Fix Window Rattle for G3 Coupe - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra)
  • Replace door speakers (have Pioneer TS-D1730C components in hand to match the rear speakers I put in)
  • "Shave" the door and body side molding
  • Put some sort of sound deadener behind the door panels
  • Acquired new OEM mirror trim covers (the plastic triangle pieces) for on top of the door panel (the tabs on mine broke off, been holding off on putting them in until I get the doors "done")
Finally got my old motor finally on a stand. This winters project will be starting the tear down of it, and assembling parts for the next motor build (soon to be entering boost territory).
 

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Discussion Starter #450
Few minor updates. As mentioned above, had the old stock motor thrown up on a stand, and have been chipping my way a few minutes here and there to get it broken down. I should have the block dropped off to a local machine shop early February. Am planning on getting them to clean, check, and hone everything for me, trying to keep it as close to stock as I can.

Snagged a clean transmission case, and have a shop that's working on transferring the internals, refurbishing what needs to be, and getting me to essentially a fresh GSR transmission.

I've been doing a lot of research, and still have a while to go before things will be installed. I'm waiting on the block to be done before I pursue the cylinder head. I'm on the fence whether I want to stick with the GSR head, or I have a B16 head in the garage. I have a Victor-X manifold for the B16 head, so keep leaning toward using it.

End goal, to be in the 350-400 whp range, hanging some sort of turbo off the front end. I'll be ditching the AC when I have the motor out next time, so should have plenty of real-estate to play with.

Stay tuned...


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End goal, to be in the 350-400 whp range, hanging some sort of turbo off the front end. I'll be ditching the AC when I have the motor out next time, so should have plenty of real-estate to play with.

Stay tuned...
w00t w00t!!:icon_twisted::icon_twisted::cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #452
Dropped the Crank + Block off at a local machine shop just now over my lunch break. They're going to check everything out, jet wash, cylinder hone, micro polish the crank, and gauge everything out for me to make sure everything is copasetic before I jump further down the hole and start ordering new internals.

As far as rods and pistons go... is RealStreet about the best bargain out there these days? Looks like I'll be going after their Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods Combo unless someone can convince me otherwise. Only concern at the moment is with the pistons and clearance issues around the oil squirters.
 

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As far as rods and pistons go... is RealStreet about the best bargain out there these days? Looks like I'll be going after their Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods Combo unless someone can convince me otherwise. Only concern at the moment is with the pistons and clearance issues around the oil squirters.
Check out Summit Racing Equipment, I ordered my K1 Rods and Wiseco Pistons from them, I can't seem to find the rods any more though. They show long ship dates but mine arrived in two days :)

They also carry Eagle rods, quick price check:

Summit: $349.97 (free shipping)
Real Street: $374.00 don't know about shipping

K1 is $385.66 from Realstreet, my engine builder who built my short block recommends K1 over eagles, and if you look up the Wiseco piston sheet they pair their pistons with K1 rods... just food for thought.

http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportCompact/AcuraHonda.pdf

My build is an 84mm B18C1, using wiseco's and K1's and I blocked off my oil squirters using GE's kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #455
Pieces and parts are starting to trickle in.

Have decided on using the PR3 cylinder head. I've got an Edlebrock Victor-X manifold for it that I already had cleaned after which I re-coated in this link... Cleaned Up Manifold.

Biggest hold back for me considering using this head combination was two fold...
1) Thought it would be cool to refurb the original cylinder block and head from the car and re-use
2) The PR3 head was previously used in the B20-VTEC setup I acquired, so had the oil passage plugged

After kicking it around with some friends and shops around, I think using the PR3 will be a better suit for what I'm after. I'm in the process of stripping down the head now, and will soon be dropping it off with a friend of mine to get it jet washed, valve job, and he's going to hand port it for me to. He builds some serious 6-second drag bikes, and everything on this cylinder head is real close to what he machines on his bike motors. More to follow on this front....

Went to the machine shop today to check on the block status. Everything's cleaned and measured out. Good news is I don't have to worry about boring the cylinders at all, a fresh hone on the stock sleeves should turn out great. There were a few blocks ahead of mine, so I should hopefully have everything back in my hands Monday / Tuesday at the latest.



 

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Discussion Starter #456
Weather forecast is looking decent for the majority of the next two weeks, so figured I'd start tinkering with the door locks / windows / side molding. First order of business was sorting out my door lock problems. Both sides seemed to be binding pretty hard when trying to rotate the lock "knob" inside the car, when using the key on the outside, and you could hear things weren't "happy" when trying to use the power door locks. It was bad enough that the alarm wasn't locking / unlocking the doors.

After much poking and prodding, it seemed the "rotational" assembly that the rod from the door handle lock attaches to on both doors was just seized up enough to keep it from rotating freely. Shot it with some silicone based lubricant (I used a silicone based garage door spray and affixed a straw from some other can I had in the garage), and worked it repeatedly, mechanically things seem much happier now.

If you reference the pictures below, the "upper" rod in the first picture attaches to the door lock mechanism by the door handle. Trace it into the door... the two rods "cross over" each other... in the second picture, you can see where the same rod (now the lower one) attaches to the "rotating" assembly I mentioned. I pretty liberally sprayed the silicone grease here, and from the "outside" of the door near where the door "latching" mechanism is that catches when you close your door.

I guess on the drivers door there is some sort of mechanical interlock between the door latch assembly and the lock assembly, which prevents the door from locking when it isn't shut. This caused me to bash my head thinking the lock was stuck a whole lot worse than it actually was.

This exposed a "new" problem, and am in the process of tracing down. Okay, not really new, it's been there, but is another thing I'm now chasing... From the drivers door, I can lock and unlock from the switch all day long :)biggrin:). From the passenger door, only the "unlock" seems to work :)frown:). Seeing how the alarm effectively ties into the passenger door lock circuit, I'm not surprised that I'm seeing the same symptoms with the alarm system (can unlock, and it physically unlocks the doors, but the lock isn't triggering anything). On to locating some schematics and toning out wires .....



 

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Discussion Starter #457
Pretty sure I isolated my door lock problem down to my door lock control module.

Started off by removing the alarm trigger for the door lock... tested the signal out of the alarm, get a negative pulse like I'm supposed to.

Tested the black / red wire in the drivers kick panel where the alarm wire was connected, and noticed it was continuously grounded (bad). Went to the passenger door, to the same black / red wire at the switch, also continuously grounded (bad).

Removed the door lock control module from the drivers door... black / red wire is not continuously grounded. Re-tested at the passenger door and drivers kick panel with the module removed, no longer grounded. Had the wife toggle the passenger switch as I toned out the plug for the door lock control module, and everything toned out fine (so no breaks in wires or unnecessary grounds).

Have a buddy with an Integra that he's parked / is contemplating parting out, he's going to pull the module from his (same year body) to see if it cures my problem. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #458
Door lock electronic saga continues. Buddy brought his module over, it has the opposite problem. Unlock for the passenger trigger is grounded, lock for the passenger trigger works great. Re-tested both lock and unlock circuits, seem to test fine. Got another one en route from eBay. If nothing else, atleast his proved I don't have a wiring problem.

Started working on the new speaker mounts. The Pioneer TS-1730C speakers I have for the front are 6 3/4". Fortunately they came packaged with a pretty slick mounting plate that adapts to just about any needed footprint. I took the stock speaker mounts and shaved off the back "bucket" completely. I then shaved down the Pioneer included bracket, to include just the 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 adapter and spacer ring. I then applied a small layer of silicone, and mounted the Pioneer spacer to the stock mounting bracket. Combined, the speaker fits perfectly, is spaced out enough to avoid the window track, and clears the door panel.

I won't screw with the car tomorrow (Valentine's Day), so will likely resume on the window motors / regulators Wednesday, and start in on shaving the door molding by the weekend.

By the time all is said and done, the doors will be completely refurbished, at which point I will throw a layer or two of peel & seal as a cheap sound deadener (as I've done on just about the rest of the car), and button everything up.

TS-D1730C - 6¾" Component Speaker Package | Pioneer Electronics USA

Pioneer Bracket, in original form


Stock speaker mount, with the "bucket" shaved off


The two screwed together, with a layer of silicone in between
 

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I'd sure like to upgrade my sound system one day. The speakers Honda put in there from the factory are worthless. I think I've turned it on about 5 times since I've had the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #460
Received in another door lock control module from eBay today, same symptoms as the one my buddy brought over. Put up a WTB thread, hopefully I can get my hands on a good one here soon.

Got the window situation 100% done. Worked with my son through it start to finish, the regulator assembly coming out of the door tripped him out a bit (claimed it reminded him of some weapon from one of his games).

Followed this thread for the removal and replacement...

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/214990-arod-s-power-window-motor-regulator-replacement-diy-install-g3-2-door-integra.html

Also, while I had the regulators out, first hit them with some carb cleaner to remove excess old grease. Then hit them with some hot mild soap water (dawn) and a small detail brush (like a stiff toothbrush) to help get the rails the rest of the way clean. I had a couple of burrs in the tracks that the components "roll in", didn't get a good picture, and hard to describe, but the assembly especially for the drivers door was "hanging up" in a couple of places. Little bit of work with a file, and was moving smooth again.

Used some CRC White Lithium grease from a spray can to over-lubricate the two rails, and hit any and every moving part of the regulator assembly.

Also following up from the window rattle write up...

Fix Window Rattle for G3 Coupe - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

I remember sometime way back, I found the rubber channel in the bottom of my door, thought to myself "I remember reading about this, let me go look that up"... well... somewhere along the line I misplaced this. For the drivers door, this channel is Part Number 72276-ST7-003. I ordered one through my local Acura dealer. Getting a "new one", they come packaged "flat". Had me scratching my head for quite a few nearly convinced I didn't order / receive the right part. Once I finally figured out I needed to "fold it over" to fit in the channel, everything started clicking.

Something that was impossible to get a clear picture of, but will explain via the two pictures of the "flat channel". There is one end that has approx. one inch of the side of the gasket "trimmed off". This "gap" is positioned to be toward the inner of the door, at the top, to get around the other channel gasket that comes down from the upper part of the window track. I had a heck of a time getting the new one to sneak in behind the existing one at the top. I ended up shaving just a hair more off of this (marked up in red below), which gave me just a bit more clearance when sliding this into the track. Glued in place with some 3M 08002 Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, and left the window "down" to help hold in place for a few hours to ensure a good bond.

Once done with the above, I used some Liquid Wrench "Dry Lubricant" in the channels that the window actually slides in (including the newly installed channel). On the drivers door, I played with the position of the one "adjustable" regulator bolt that goes into the slot with the "notches" (will make sense if you read the regulator replacement article), which made a big difference in how smooth the window went up and down.

Everything's now awesome with the window and door lock mechanics!

Onto the next project... shaving the door moldings, applying sound deadener, then I can get the door panels / new speakers back in and call the doors done.

Removing the regulator


Motor replacement


One side of the new channel


Trimmed the channel highlighted in the red area


On to the door moldings
 
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