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Discussion Starter #362
That's the plan I'm proceeding with.

The plug only showed part of the problem, the fluid itself was damn near gray, with lots and lots of residual shimmer at the bottom of the drain pan. I guess my magnetic plug reached its collecting capacity.

3 quarts of Honda Genuine MTF on its way, along with a new drain plug set.

Should be rolling again in the next 7-10 days or so, chipped ECU being the long lead item.


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Ouch. That much metal sludge in the trans is the sign that something was done to it. Something violent. If the drain plug was like that, imagine what the transmission magnet looked like.

Did it make any noises? I cratered an ISB that caused that kind of fuzz once. If the preload and shimming were done incorrectly, it could do that too.

Hopefully the swap goes clean for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #364
Noise? Not really, and say that lightly. Was fine until Monday morning, until shifting got stiff. Until then, shifts felt "notchy", and reverse was a *****, but was tolerable.

Even the remainder of the drive Monday and return Thursday, with shifting messed up, I didn't notice any abnormal noises or vibrations... Until ... shifting magically fixed itself, at which point there was a small grinding / vibrating noise, but it wasn't horrible sounding.

I should have transmission down tomorrow, and will get my old one back up midweek. It's still attached to the old block which is now buried in the corner of my garage.

Dropped ECU off at the post office this morning, so have to wait roughly a week for it to come back before I can fire it back up.

I'm going to tear into this nasty trans when the dust settles, more out of curiosity. Maybe I can salvage something to sell on the eBay factory, maybe not.


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I'm betting that it's the change assembly and improper measurement and shimming during assembly. Something was interfering not just meshing, and the SCHA got all boogered up in the process.

Good luck, and post pics! You know how much we love carnage here.
 

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Discussion Starter #366
Got the transmission pulled down tonight. Pretty happy that I did it on my own, no helpful neighbors were available, and took roughly 2 hours with the car on stands on the driveway until the transmission made it's way to my garage floor.

Working on getting the old trans off the old block, and will get it degreased tomorrow. I think I'm going to warranty both axles too... Passenger side is starting to throw grease, and drivers side isn't far behind.

Took a quick clip, call it part one of the failure diagnosis. Definitely sounds like a bearing **** itself. Maybe something got hung up just right (wrong) enough to temporarily jamb up the shifting mechanism? More to follow in this series over the coming weeks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXcNFatHoHA
 

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I had a chunk of the inner race of the ISB on my civic pop loose and float around. It eventually jammed the shafts hard, but it's very possible part of the cage, the race, or even a ball could have floated around and jammed things up.
 

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Oh man the resistance on that shaft. Should spin a lot more freely. Definitely some bearing failure, if you can wiggle the shaft, Input shaft bearing it is. If you can't then tear down will hold the answer.

Best of luck. I'll keep an eye on it, hope to help shed some
Light.
 

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Discussion Starter #370
Yeh, definitely worth digging into to see what failed, and I will in due time. Just need to pack a lot into the next couple of weeks before I have to hit the road for work again.

Got a few things done yesterday...
  • Picked up two new axles, and a new boot for the drivers side inner tie rod
  • Got the old transmission housing all cleaned up
  • Drained the oil, which looked good, nothing mixing that I can tell
  • Wiped everything down the best I could, as had some residual mess from my start up leaks, and the busted axle boot made a mess
Weather is looking very wet next few days. Also waiting on new drain plugs and a new battery tie down, both from BWR. Hopefully by Thursday it'll clear up and I can button it back up, and hopefully that timing should loosely correlate with getting the ECU back.

I know I said it before, I'm just beyond ready to be done with "major problems" for a while. I love working on this car, but the last couple of months have been relentless, and "Winter is coming".

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Discussion Starter #371
Transmission is back in, new CV Axles in, new driver side steering boot, new magnetic drain plugs and a new battery tie down. Changed out all the grounds (again) with some fancy braided ground straps, just because the markup on them is so ridiculous, and my discount rocks. I think they look pretty sweet. Filled with fresh 5w30 Castrol Magnatec, and fresh genuine Honda MTF.

At this point, I'm just waiting on the ECU from Phearable to arrive. I'll snag some pics once I get things cleaned up and what not. She's a dirty bird right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #372
Looks like ECU should be back from Phearable tomorrow. Car is otherwise ready to roll.

Forgot to mention it a while back. 3-4 weeks ago I loaded up a bunch of used oil I had laying around, and made a loop dropping my daily 5 gallon max at a few places. I intentionally loaded the jugs into plastic tubs as insurance so I wouldn't screw that nice carpet I put in my trunk. Wouldn't you know it, the one jug that wanted to spring a leak was inside the one tub that had a crack I didn't catch beforehand. Long story short, I had 1-2 quarts make it onto the carpet.

I've done multiple iterations of blotting with paper towels under weighted objects, and then did a round of corn starch, under paper towels, under weighted objects. I just now hit it with some carpet spot cleaner and my carpet shampoo machine. I think I finally got it all up. Here's hoping my car will stop smelling like used motor oil by the time the ECU gets here, and I can enjoy the car again.


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Discussion Starter #374
ECU is here and installed.

Car runs noticeably smoother and stronger. I took it up to 7k a few times and otherwise just ran it for 20 miles or so.

However, a new symptom has surfaced, and has me scratching my head a bit. When cold, car starts up and idles smooth, roughly around 1200 rpm. Once it warms up a bit, idle drops down to roughly 7-800 rpm, and is smooth. In either case, once you tap the gas, or the engine has any extra load (example, cooling fans kicking in), the idle starts hunting. It'll continue to hunt between nearly stalling and 900 rpm until you turn it off. Same hunting is present when you come to a stop. It only died on me once out of maybe 20-30 stops.

Here is where it gets weird... Turn the car off, let it sit for 20-30 seconds, start it back up, and the idle is magically smooth again, until you hit the gas again.

Maybe my IACV needs to be replaced? Is there a way to test that?

I deleted the FITV, so that's a non issue. I previously tested the TPS which tested perfect. Any other thoughts?


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I've never had luck over the years *cleaning* the IACV, only a brand new one solved my issues years ago.... your symptoms definitely sound IACV-related

btw: personal note, stuff like your FB profile picture doesn't go unnoticed... thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter #376
IACV, I tried to clean it when I had everything apart, when the head was off, and I deleted the FITV. It was nasty. As far as I'm aware, it is / was the original part still on the car, so 20 years or 260k miles, which ever sounds "worse". Oddly enough, it was idling fine before I shipped the ECU out.

I have another one here, but don't want to keep throwing suspect parts at it.

Any one have a better source or idea for the IACV? Delray Acura looks like they have it for $223.88.

(36450-P72-005) - VALVE ASSY., ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL
 

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Discussion Starter #378
Based on further reading, I'm going to call it safe to assume that my IACV is toast. I'm going to be out of town for a few weeks, so it'll probably be Thanksgiving before I have an opportunity to deal with that.

Separately, glad to report the smell of oil is out of my car. As extra insurance, I picked up a "WeatherTech Trim-to-Fit All Vehicle Cargo Mat", which I think turned out pretty darn good. I had contemplated doing this when I initially put the carpet it, and have since been kicking myself for not doing it. I checked around online, and was surprised to find it on the shelf at AutoZone for $40. I think eventually, I'm going to try to find some sort of rubber weather gasket material, and seam in an edge around this mat, just to finish off the non-perfect cuts and give myself a bit of a lip all the way around just in case.

Lastly, here's a few current pics, of the new grounds and engine bay.

Engine Bay


Head Ground


Battery Tie Down & Ground


Transmission Ground


Extra Ground - ECU / Thermostat Housing


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Discussion Starter #380
Not sure this is the right fix, but seems to be working... I put "just a hair" of tension on my throttle cable, just enough to raise the idle, and it seems to be quite content. It's idling a hair high (somewhere in the 800-1000 rpm range), but it's not hunting, and is very smooth.

If nothing else, it'll buy me some time to drive it without it wanting to hunt at red lights, and die half the time when I'm approaching a stop.

I've driven it maybe 60-80 miles now in total with my old transmission and ECU combination... it is noticeably smoother, and has a definite bump in torque from before. VTEC engagement with these new cams is noticeable. You feel the increase power gain and the transition is smooth.


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