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Discussion Starter #201
Keep up the good work. GL with your future boosted plans. It is awesome!
To be honest, don't have any plans to boost the B20, just too many unknowns with it. I'm looking to sell off the turbo components locally, and just build "cheap insurance" for a fun, clean, motor with a bit more torque.

Spent the last hour reading this...
Appreciate it. I will get some more interior pictures taken once I have a sunny day with the new seats installed. I've done a few more things that I don't think I've captured in the log yet...
- Picked up newer door panels and a center console, with the grey leather inserts. I'll have to see how everything looks with the new seats. I'm thinking the door panels will be fine, but may need to get a different arm rest cover. Also picked up some dark grey checkered OEM floor mats, that set off the rest of the interior on the black carpet.
 

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Keep up the good work. GL with your future boosted plans. It is awesome!
To be honest, don't have any plans to boost the B20, just too many unknowns with it. I'm looking to sell off the turbo components locally, and just build "cheap insurance" for a fun, clean, motor with a bit more torque.

Spent the last hour reading this...
Appreciate it. I will get some more interior pictures taken once I have a sunny day with the new seats installed. I've done a few more things that I don't think I've captured in the log yet...
- Picked up newer door panels and a center console, with the grey leather inserts. I'll have to see how everything looks with the new seats. I'm thinking the door panels will be fine, but may need to get a different arm rest cover. Also picked up some dark grey checkered OEM floor mats, that set off the rest of the interior on the black carpet.
The taste is great in this one!

Do you have any intent on painting rims or body and bay? I like the two tone engine block. The ripples were hardly noticed by the oil cap until the second picture where the light glared off slightly made it more noticeable. I think I seen somewhere that you wanted to wire tuck? I'd love to see everything with fresh paint and cleaned up engine bay with wire tuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Have to see how things go when I get the motor pulled. I do want to atleast "clean up" the wiring a bit, not sure if it'll be a tuck, or a "recover and reroute". I've toyed with the idea of respraying the horns and bay while I have the motor out, just not sure that'll be in the cards this year. Lots of plans, lots of ideas, just working with limited amounts of cash and time unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Got the seat brackets modified per a write up on here (link below), and installed today. They look so much better than the stock seats, and feel a lot better to. They "snug" you in just enough in my opinion, without being too restrictive. Height wise, feel about the same as the stock seats I pulled out, and seem like they are able to go an inch or two further back than the stock ones (a blessing, as I'm 6'1", and felt stock seats had me too close).

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/11-generation-three/197517-rsx-seats-g3-full-how-do.html

You can also see in the picture, the replacement door panels I picked up, along with the replacement arm rest cover. I'm on the fence if I'm going to leave the arm rest "as-is" (as it matches the door panels), or if I'll pick up a black leather cover to better match the seats.

 

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Discussion Starter #205
I've been chipping away at the back seat delete and new platform for about the last week or two. I spent a few hours one night, gutting the whole rear interior. Took me the better part of a day to get everything degreased and wiped down. I then applied 3 full rolls of Peal & Seal, to cover every square inch from the back bumper to the rear floorboards. I get that Peal & Seal may not be the best, but its cheap, and readily available locally, and is better than nothing.

I've been slowly working on getting everything cut and in place. Summary of the layout...
  • 12" Slim Subwoofer moved forward, and will be recessed into the floor.
  • 2x Pioneer Amps, stacked on top of each other (similar to how I had before), behind the passenger seat, recessed into the floor. I'll have an opening cut so you'll see the top amplifier, and an opening on the front "panel" for access to the amp adjustments
  • A small compartment behind the driver's seat, with a hinged lid, to utilize some of the dead space underneath
  • Hinged door in the back, to gain access to the spare tire.
So far I've been really fortunate, as everything is coming together quite nicely. I've used a mixture of 1x2, 1x4, and 1x6 to create the framework. I've got a couple of days of more rough cut / template work to do, and then I'll begin the final assembly. Once everything is fitted, I'm going to pull it all back out, sand it down, paint all of the wood black, and then wrap it with some bulk carpet that is on its way from StockInteriors to match the floor carpet I just put in.

I'm also waiting on new Pioneer TS-D1702R 6 3/4" speakers for the rear, and a Pioneer UD-G308 subwoofer grill.

A few pics of the progress... please ignore the "crap" everywhere in some of them, this is a work in progress. I'll post up some more pictures in the next week or two. I figure I'm probably 2-3 weeks out from having this project wrapped up.

Gutted, before I cleaned it


Everything cleaned, starting to lay down the Peal & Seal


Looking in from the passenger door. You can see the cut out window for the amps, where the sub will sit, and the compartment on the right.


Looking in from the trunk. Can see the rear brace, and where I layed some cheap walmart automotive carpet just to make the tire well look decent. Picture is a bit deceiving. The tire is "down in the well". The rear most brace is sitting on top, using the factory bolt holes. I cut a notch / curve in that rear support to make access to the tire easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
I know what you mean... was just motivated to get this done getting the new (and unmatched front seats), and is something I also have wanted to do for a while. The rear seat in my car never got used, and I never ever saw a time where I'd have more than one passenger with me.

I learned from my mistakes the last time I did the trunk floor itself with the sub and amps. Previously, it was more or less wedged in place when the back seats were upright. This time around, I'm taking my time, leveraging factory bolt locations (using where the seat belt retractor and seat belt receptacle up front, two bolts in the rear), and doing what I can to fully secure this to the car, so it shouldn't move, shouldn't rattle, and should be solid as a rock for whatever I want to throw on top of it.

I've also got a few details to work out, but I know I'm going to use quite a few t-nuts where some pieces come together, so that I can easily disassemble and reassemble as needed, in cases where I need to get to the fuel pump for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Few updates on the rear seat delete...
  • Got all of the floor covered, and back side of all rear plastics covered with Peal & Seal. I ended up using 5 full rolls. I can definitely notice a remarkable improvement with less road noise, with the back still "gutted". I'm thinking should be even more noticeable once the final floor is in place.
  • The rear speakers have been replaced, mounted, and all plastics are back in the car. It took quite a bit of dremel work to get the rear speakers to fit properly, as they are a 6 3/4" "replacement".
  • All of the "framework" has been cut, sanded, and painted with a semi-gloss black.
  • The bulk carpet I ordered from StockInteriors just showed up yesterday, and looks to be a fantastic match to the rest of the floor carpet.
  • I ordered a 1 farad capacitor to add to the mix, and am waiting on a couple of new distribution blocks so I can get everything cleaned up and terminated better.
  • I started to work on the templates for the actual floor last night. I hope to have this finished up by tonight, so I can get it cut out and final fitted tomorrow.
Here's a couple of pictures... The old speakers used to be in the doors from the previous owner. I moved them to the back when my brother gave me an older set of Kicker components for the front. The new Pioneer units are beefy, with a nice looking integrated cross over. Also shown, is the 3" aluminum spacers I'm going to have separating the amps. They provide enough an air gap, and will get the upper amp to sit almost perfectly flush in the floor once installed.





 

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nice, that was me with the peel n seal and HF heat gun 4 months ago :lol:

it makes a HUGE difference, and doing the doors with peel n seal on the skins and then frost king between the inner frame and the interior panel also makes a huge difference
 

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yeah, it's a sticky butyl rubber by itself, but it sticks and molds a lot better when it's been heated up to 130-140
 

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Discussion Starter #213
i;ve never used peel and seal before, did you need heat to apply it to the car?
Yes, you need to use heat... I used a cheapo Harbor Freight Gun (link below). General process is generally the same with Peal and Seal, or with a true "sound deadener". Only real difference, is Peal & Seal is thinner than your Dynamat / Hushmat / ..., so may want to double layer in some areas (I did not apply a double layer on the metal, but did cover both the metal, and the back side of the plastic panels). Again I used 5 rolls, to cover the entire trunk floor, up the side panels and back panel roughly to the height of the tail light openings, and all of the rear plastics. Once the back is all done, I intend to repeat on the doors here soon.

  • With backing still on, cut / trim / notch piece as required
  • Quickly "preheated" the surface (helped the stuff "stick" initially)
  • Put piece into place, push / rub into place roughly
  • Heat it up with the heat gun pretty good, until it starts to soften
  • I wore gloves, and smoothed it out by hand, pushing any air pockets out, and making sure it pushed into the corners real good.
  • I over lapped pieces by roughly an inch.
Edit - what's funny if you read the Lowes site, the majority of the reviews are how good this stuff is as a sound deadener.

Heat Gun - Dual Temperature Heat Gun, 1500W

Shop Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repair 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing for Chimneys, Skylights, Windows, Roofs, Doors, Vents, Gutters, and Egress Windows at Lowes.com
 

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nice, that was me with the peel n seal and HF heat gun 4 months ago :lol:

it makes a HUGE difference, and doing the doors with peel n seal on the skins and then frost king between the inner frame and the interior panel also makes a huge difference
Frost King what? There were lots of FK products on eBay. Sorry from FL...
 

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Yes, you need to use heat... I used a cheapo Harbor Freight Gun (link below). General process is generally the same with Peal and Seal, or with a true "sound deadener". Only real difference, is Peal & Seal is thinner than your Dynamat / Hushmat / ..., so may want to double layer in some areas (I did not apply a double layer on the metal, but did cover both the metal, and the back side of the plastic panels). Again I used 5 rolls, to cover the entire trunk floor, up the side panels and back panel roughly to the height of the tail light openings, and all of the rear plastics. Once the back is all done, I intend to repeat on the doors here soon.

  • With backing still on, cut / trim / notch piece as required
  • Quickly "preheated" the surface (helped the stuff "stick" initially)
  • Put piece into place, push / rub into place roughly
  • Heat it up with the heat gun pretty good, until it starts to soften
  • I wore gloves, and smoothed it out by hand, pushing any air pockets out, and making sure it pushed into the corners real good.
  • I over lapped pieces by roughly an inch.
Edit - what's funny if you read the Lowes site, the majority of the reviews are how good this stuff is as a sound deadener.

Heat Gun - Dual Temperature Heat Gun, 1500W

Shop Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repair 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing for Chimneys, Skylights, Windows, Roofs, Doors, Vents, Gutters, and Egress Windows at Lowes.com
great tips thank you. i scraped all of the sound deadening out of my car to make sure i wasnt having any rust issues with the floors in the car. i'd like to put it back in along the same spots on the floor and in the trunk, i think this is going to be the most cost effective way to do it. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Trunk Floor = Finished

Finally got everything finished up last night. I'm no stranger to wrapping boxes, etc., but using this bulk carpet from Stock Interiors proved to be quite cumbersome. Its a much thicker pile than your standard "box" carpet, and has a pretty stiff plastic backing, which made things really difficult to work around some of the hard edges and curves I'd created.

All in all, it turned out better than I had originally envisioned it, and am extremely happy with the results. My goal was simple, maximize the space available, and delete the unusued rear seat. I was not going for weight savings. I simply wanted a clean fit solution, that opened up more space for when I need it.

To summarize what I did, and what I used.
  • 1 - 1x2 board, bolted into the original lower rear seat-belt retractor holes.
  • 1 - 1x4 board, cut with a curve, and jointed to another small section of 1x4, bolted into the very rear of the car, into the original bolt holes in the trunk.
  • 1 - 2x4 small section, screwed to the metal cross "brace", that was somewhat under the rear seat
  • Those three provided my secure mounting points.
  • On top of the front support, I built a frame surrounding a stock Pioneer low profile subwoofer box, an area to stack my amps using 2 1/2" spacers, and a small compartment area to put "stuff". The front facing board is a 1x6, and I used just left over 1x2 and particle board I had laying around to finish it off.
  • The top surface is 3/4" Plywood. I wanted to avoid MDF due to moisture concerns (should I get a leak later, or it get wet from having the hatch open). After final cuts were made, every board was individually sanded, and painted with 2 coats of an oil based black semi-gloss paint (figured wouldn't hurt, and make undersides look somewhat finished).
  • Finally, I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, and wrapped all outward facing surfaces with a black carpet from StockInteriors to match the floor kit I put in last year. Everything seamed up beautifully, and matches the floor perfectly.
And for pictures of the finished product. Taking pictures of black carpet with the sun shining outside using a phone camera is not easy, so bear with me here.

From the back bumper looking in (spare opening closed), taken at night


From the back bumper looking in (spare opening closed), taken in daylight


From the back bumper looking in (spare opening open)


From the passenger door


From the driver door


From the driver door, with compartment open
 
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