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never tried to remove it. I assume you would take off the wheel sensors, fail safe relay, motor relay, control unit and modulator unit. Undo all the harnesses and clips to the modulator unit. The Helms cautions about handling the high pressure nitrogen gas inside the acculmulator (do not loosen the relief plug) . The modulator unit should not be turned upside down or leaned on ever. 8mm nuts x 3 hold the unit down and you remove it. The same caution about brake fluid spillage on paint applies.

The ABS trouble light does not run off the ECU as far as I can see.
 

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That does sound difficult...but I still wanna try it...I hate abs!..it is usless!!!!!!!!!!!!!...well may be not..but still the same I dislike it!..so does any one have pictures or something on how to do this?
 

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this reply is to ominous: abs is useless, eh? tell that to the owner of the civic si in my signature, whose wheels locked up on wet pavement, and he went sideways into a tree...if the civic si came with abs, it may have been a different story...
 

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ps...I'm not saying abs is God, but it sure does help on an everyday driver. if you're just using your teg for track use, that's a different story, but I stand by my opinion that abs is a great addition to everyday driving cars.
 

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But ABS is not nessesary for a track-only car. Odds are, you won't be racing in adverse weather...surrounded by walnut trees...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would never do such, for a street car. OTOH, track driving is a very different situation.

If anyone has a good engine bay pic of a non-ABS, I'd like to see it.
 

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I agree that for a daily driver ABS is a must. I also believe that it takes a very experienced driver to outbrake a modern ABS system.
Some ABS sytems don't handle threshold braking under bumpy conditions well as the wheel momentarily loses contact with the ground or if a wheel lifts entirely off the ground - both conditions that are common in a race environment. I read an article somehere about how the new M3's ABS was specifically designed to handle these situations.
 

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I have an RS, I never had a car with ABS, dont know what i missing as far as braking goes. In my engine bay there is an open spot where the abs should be. I keep my tools there when im working on something in the engine bay.
 

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My ABS has always had the light on since I've owned the car and it's the high pressure system. The abs mtor pump thing pumps all the time and I can't find any leaks. Would I be better of finding a way to fix it all or doing the RS conversion. Because ABS does take up quite a bit of room.
 

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It would definately be easier to fix it. Doing an rs brake conversion is a pain in the a$$. If you cant fix it, take to a shop or the dealership. Or.... just remove the bulb in the gauge cluster that lights the "ABS" sign so you dont have to see it.
 

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ok turbolsvtecteg showed me how to do it with these parts stock MC all you need is a 40/40 proportioning valve off a honda with all disc brakes (no rear drums)

$2.99 each Straight -3AN to 1/8"NPT Fitting(Part# AER-FCM2511)X 8

$12.39 each 17Degree -3AN to 10mm Banjo Bolt Fitting(Part # AER-FCM3092)X 4

$9.88 each 90Degree -3AN Hose End(Part # AER-FCM1120)X 6

$5.95 each Straight -3AN Hose End(Part # AER-FCM1100)X 2

$81.95 each -3AN Teflon Racing Hose 20 Feet(Part # AER-FCC0320)X 2

$35.95 each -3AN Teflon Racing Hose 10 Feet(Part # AER-FCC0310)X 1

thats to run ALL new lines from the MC to the PV to each caliper.. 10 feet extra just incase...
 

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So are you bypassing the hardlines to each wheel caliper? How are the ends connected to the hose? Is it a crimp fitting like standard brakes or does it screw on over the hose? Do you have a recommended proportioning valve?


I'm pretty interested in this too.
 
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