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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I just had my motor rebuilt and we fired it up for the first time and it sounded good... at idle. However once we revved it up a bit it started to make a really fast nasty ticking noise at only 2500 rpms... its sounds kinda like a woodpecker on crack going nuts inside the head. one thing i noticed since then is that the ticking will start to happen at a lower rpm when cold like between 2k and 2.5k rpms, but when i got the engine warm it wouldnt happen til about 3k-3.3k rpms. I also noticed while driving it under load when it starts to tick it sputters as if it were misfiring or something. I tried revving it past that to about 5-6k a couple times and i couldnt really hear the ticking once it got past that range although im not positive on that since my goddamn exhaust is too damn loud, and i dont want to keep testing it and risking jacking something up.

I pulled codes and the only one that came up was p1259... vtec malfunction code.

This really has me stumped as to why it only seems to tick at a certain range... i took it to a shop for a quick inspection and they said the valve clearances were off a bit so im gonna go ahead and do a valve adjustment tomarrow, but they also said it could be rocker arms. I noticed on my way to the shop my tach was bouncing up and down from 3k to 5k when my motor began to sputter but i felt no change in rpms. I think that may just be a new problem but it seemed to be linked to the ticking... btw where are the rpms for the tach measured... distributor i think??? Anyway the shop wanted to charge me $150 just to inspect the rocker arms, so i want to do the valve adjustments first before i start spending more cash...

Anyway this is really pissing me off cuz i havent even drove my teg in 2 months and when i finally did get to drive it i cant really rev past 3.2k rpms. I have a feeling though that the problem is bigger than the valve clearances and i was hoping maybe somebody has heard of this type of situation before and maybe can give me some advice... any would be appreciated, thanks.
 

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Check your valve clearances. If your using aftermarket cams go with the specs that they recommend not stock ones.

If all the clearances are within spec. Chek you lost motion assembly (lma) to see if they operating. Those can cause the sounds your describing.

Lastly check your injectors, if they're not firing correctly they could cause a bouncing tach issue if it's bad enough.

Have you done a compression test yet to determine if the rings have seated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
welp... just did the valve adjustments... same damn noise still. Still bugs me how it sounds great at idle but soon as i gas it a bit it makes that ticking noise.

My timing belt is brand new.

Havent done a compression test yet...

I would check the rockers myself but im still kind of a newb when it comes to engine internals so i wouldnt know how to get to em and i really dont feel like jacking anything up and taking 10 more steps backwards.
Heh also i have no idea where the lma's are...
 

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Do you have forged internals.... aftermarket rods or pistons?

Could it be piston slap? Have you had the cylinders bored or honed?

What was rebuilt on the motor?

You need to provide MORE details if you want help!
 

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don't run the motor.

rule out piston to valve contact first. then worry about valve lash.

do a leakdown.

was the timing belt on properly?

I'd tow her back to the builder and have them inspect the motor.
I've seen anything from bent valves to missing LMA's to wrong clearances to cam caps backwards to valve lash to worn injector O rings as the cause of "ticking".

you have to visually inspect it.
 

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the vtec CEL code could be the rocker mechanism that locks the 3 rockers together in VTEC when the oil pressure pushes the pin into place if the problem is at the head.

vtec CEL codes are usually VTEC solenoid (including spool valve and pressure swtich) related though.

hopefully it's just wrong lash and no other problems as everyone suggests.

let us know what they diagnose it as.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmm no forged internals had the head and block decked and surfaced... replaced pistons with new stock pistons, had the cylinders honed. Had "new" stock valves put in...

Yah ill probably end up taking it back to the shop. My head was warped hella bad so i went to them for their reputation in machine work... not their experience with vtec motors, although they had some... maybe thats where i went wrong.

Considering the lash was out of spec and too tight on every single valve (I think they may have used GS or LS specs
) I may just save myself some towing cash and bring it to a shop with great knowledge and experience with vtec and other import motors, especially since i think i may have voided the warranty already... i wonder if they know that though
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did the lash a few hours ago and yes it was bone cold hadnt run it for about 36 hours prior... they were all a bit tight, all about a thousandth or 2 off so i adjusted all the intake valves between .006-.007 and exhaust valves between .007.-.008.
 

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just on the safe side, do you know anyone who can do a leakdown test for you?

check the timing belt and that your cam gears align at TDC.

check the oil level

clear your CEL code P1259 is an MIL CEL 22 which is your pressure switch.

check the connection to the VTEC solenoid pressure switch...it's a USDM motor right?.... just to make sure try a known good pressure switch off a friend's car.


I'd have the leakdown done but others may not...depends on the person and how deep your pockets are I guess....
I'd take it to the engine builder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
K well thanks for the advice i think im about to just take it back to those loosers back at the machine shop... i think ive done just about everything i could do on my own with my lack of tools.
 
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